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I Have 01 Ranger Xlt With 3.0 Automatic Tranny, After A Thew Miles Down The Road 10-15 Or Maybe A Little More It Jerks Real Bad At 3800- 4500 Rpm's. I Have Changed All The Sensors On The Truck, New Air Filter, New Fuel Filter, Ect. No Trouble Codes Come Up. Ive Had This Problem For A While And Can Not Figure It Out. Any Ideas?
new plugs wires and coil has been put on and gapped right. new tps, o2, dpfe, camshaft, crankshaft sensors, and egr valve have been replaced, exhaust has been checked, i have run out of ideas..
At this point I might suspect some kind of fuel delivery problem.
In the last year or so I've heard of this type of problem thrice.
Two turned out to be a faulty gas cap, such that as fuel was used & vacuum was pulled on the tank, the engine would starve for fuel.
SO, next time it does this, pull over & open the cap to equalize tank pressure, retighten it & see what happens. If it's better afterward, suspect the cap & replace it with a OEM one.
The other one was a problem with the vapor recovery system constantly pulling a vacuum on the tank, such that after a while, the fuel pump couldn't overcome it, to meet demand.
Both problems took 15-25 miles of driving, to occur.
Just some ideas to ponder.
Let us know what you find.
I Dont Think My Cap Is Bad Cause Even Right After I Put Gas Into It It Still Does It, But I Will Check The Vaper Recovery System Next, How Do I Go About Checking The Vaper Recovery System?? Thanks For The Info...
Well both of us are speculating on a number of things here, so lets not do that, as it's not a good way to diagnose a problem.
Have you had the vehicles computer scanned for "pending" trouble codes???? These are codes that haven't matured, to turn the CEL on, If so post ALL the pending codes found.
Perhaps the computer is unhappy enough with something that it'll tattle on a system, or if your luckey, the troubled item.
You could check the purge system the same way as I outlined with the gas cap. When it acts up, stop & pop the gas cap loose, to equalize tank pressure, retighten the cap, then continue your drive immediately & see if there is any improvement. If not, then you can forget these two things.
About the only vapor recovery system item you could check, would be the purge control solenoid & valve, to see if it's sticking open & continuously pulling too much vacuum on the gas tank, through the charcoal canister.
I still suspect some kind of fuel delivery issue, but we don't yet have enough information to really say that.
It could be electrical, although you've already changed the electrical items that would nomally be high in the suspect list, like coil, wires, plugs, crank & cam seneors.
You've been plenty busy with this one!!!!
Did this problem begin suddenly, after some event, or slowly over time????
i just bought the truck about 3 months ago and it started doing it about 3 or 4 days after i got it. im not trying to race the truck or anything but like if i need to pass somebody or it comes out of overdrive just going up a hill it gets very aggrevating.. after about 4500 rpms it runs fine through all the gears till about 4th when it drops below 4000. but sometimes it wont jerk when it reaches that rpm it does like it is suppose to..
Missing at high rpm, or on a pull at high rpm, when the engine is loaded, sure sounds like a spark problem of some sort.
It's the kind of problem a faulty plug or plug wire would cause, as sfcwoodret has suggested.
I know you've said you changed the coilpack, plugs, wires, crank & cam sensors, but did you have this problem BEFORE you changed them, I think you probally did, just need to make sure, so I'm certain were all singing from the same hymnal,???? lol
Seems to me, if it's the engine missing, the problem has to be fuel or spark related & the fact it's rpm band sensitive & it began 3-4 days after you purchased the vehicle, are all good clues, but I just can't make the connection yet.
Just so I'm clear on all this, am I correct in assuming the "jerk" you said you feel, is an engine miss & not the tranny down shifting firmly/roughly, out of OD????
Maybe all this will trigger a response from some of the other members & they'll chime in here too.
bama ive seen your post on this before and you've said that you've change or checked everything. I'll make a deal with you! change the syncronizer and if that doesn't fix the problem i'll pay for the part. I'm telling you i've seen this several times. I know it only happens when it gets warm. maybe the heat is causing the syncro to expand causing it to get loose. I'm out of B'ham and i'll be back that way in dec. currently stationed in cali. It seems like if you've spent all that money to do parts change troubleshooting the extra 125 buck won't kill you. let me know what you think.
ill goahead and change the sync, might as well, got plenty of money in it so far. i get a discount with oriely's so it dont cost me as much. thanks for your info...
no not yet been busy at work and dont have the extra $130.00 to spend on a synchronizer. i think the problem might be getting a little worse, which im hoping it does. if what ever is causing the problem went out then it would be a lot easier to find.