Vacuum Pump Run Time
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Vacuum Pump Run Time
Hello All. I have had a vent problem and ESOF not working. Foound that BOTH of the lines to the hubs were GONE. What led to this besides the ESOF not working was that the VACUUM PUMP RAN ALL THE TIME. So I want to Advanced, got some new hose, connected it under the wheel well and to the nipples on the hub spot.
Now my vents work fine switching to all positions and my ESOF seems to work as it should.....
But it seems like the vacuum pump runs and runs and runs for about 2 minutes or more at start-up. Then quits....the restarts after about 30 seconds with no use of vents or ESOF switch.
Is that the normal amount of run time for the pump or is something else still wrong?
Thanks,
RC
Now my vents work fine switching to all positions and my ESOF seems to work as it should.....
But it seems like the vacuum pump runs and runs and runs for about 2 minutes or more at start-up. Then quits....the restarts after about 30 seconds with no use of vents or ESOF switch.
Is that the normal amount of run time for the pump or is something else still wrong?
Thanks,
RC
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
I don't think the 2 minutes is too bad, but starting up again that quickly means theres deffinatly a leak somewhere. Plug off your esof system by the resivior and you can determine if it's there of on the climate control side.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
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From: Columbia, MO
There is a leak somewhere....the difficult part is finding out where. I'd start with the lines coming out of the pump to see if they hold a vaccum. If they don't, that might at least tell you that the pump is not bad. From there, you'll want to test at every Tee to see where the leak may be.
You might remember my vaccum leak. It ended up being the inner seals on the front axles, not the yellow o-rings around the hub or the black o-rings around the lockers. It's the seals that are behind the hubs, that seal the axle to the knuckle, that require you to pull the axles completely out to install them, that take a special tool to install correctly (I went through 2 seals before I finally had the dealer install the 3rd one with their correct tool).
Just remember to diagnose it thoroughly to be sure you know where it is before you go throwing money at new parts, like a new pump.
You might remember my vaccum leak. It ended up being the inner seals on the front axles, not the yellow o-rings around the hub or the black o-rings around the lockers. It's the seals that are behind the hubs, that seal the axle to the knuckle, that require you to pull the axles completely out to install them, that take a special tool to install correctly (I went through 2 seals before I finally had the dealer install the 3rd one with their correct tool).
Just remember to diagnose it thoroughly to be sure you know where it is before you go throwing money at new parts, like a new pump.
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From: Cincy OH
What all is ran off of the vaccum pump? I know the ESOF 4x4 and the heater/air vent system, but what else?
Does anyone have a diagram of the routing of the lines from the vaccum pump.
Also, last winter my drivers side auto/lock hub was froze up. I could not manually turn the **** so I sprayed penetrating oil around it and ended up forcing it to turn. This caused a thin black o-ring seal to bulge out of the side, and I ended up having to pull the entire seal out from the very thin crevace around the manual hub. Is this likely my vaccum problem? My ESOF 4x4 still works.
If this is causing a vaccum leak, why would it cause the pump to run non-stop even when the ESOF is not activated? Does the system create a vaccum in the entire system all the time, regardless of the in cab activation switch?? If this were so, then the auto hubs would always be activated even if the transfer case is not engaged-that would not make sense?
Can I replace just that black hub o-ring? If so, what all is involved? Thanks for any help!
Does anyone have a diagram of the routing of the lines from the vaccum pump.
Also, last winter my drivers side auto/lock hub was froze up. I could not manually turn the **** so I sprayed penetrating oil around it and ended up forcing it to turn. This caused a thin black o-ring seal to bulge out of the side, and I ended up having to pull the entire seal out from the very thin crevace around the manual hub. Is this likely my vaccum problem? My ESOF 4x4 still works.
If this is causing a vaccum leak, why would it cause the pump to run non-stop even when the ESOF is not activated? Does the system create a vaccum in the entire system all the time, regardless of the in cab activation switch?? If this were so, then the auto hubs would always be activated even if the transfer case is not engaged-that would not make sense?
Can I replace just that black hub o-ring? If so, what all is involved? Thanks for any help!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
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From: Gig Em, Tx
Originally Posted by yellow401
What all is ran off of the vaccum pump? I know the ESOF 4x4 and the heater/air vent system, but what else?
Does anyone have a diagram of the routing of the lines from the vaccum pump.
Also, last winter my drivers side auto/lock hub was froze up. I could not manually turn the **** so I sprayed penetrating oil around it and ended up forcing it to turn. This caused a thin black o-ring seal to bulge out of the side, and I ended up having to pull the entire seal out from the very thin crevace around the manual hub. Is this likely my vaccum problem? My ESOF 4x4 still works.
If this is causing a vaccum leak, why would it cause the pump to run non-stop even when the ESOF is not activated? Does the system create a vaccum in the entire system all the time, regardless of the in cab activation switch?? If this were so, then the auto hubs would always be activated even if the transfer case is not engaged-that would not make sense?
Can I replace just that black hub o-ring? If so, what all is involved? Thanks for any help!
Does anyone have a diagram of the routing of the lines from the vaccum pump.
Also, last winter my drivers side auto/lock hub was froze up. I could not manually turn the **** so I sprayed penetrating oil around it and ended up forcing it to turn. This caused a thin black o-ring seal to bulge out of the side, and I ended up having to pull the entire seal out from the very thin crevace around the manual hub. Is this likely my vaccum problem? My ESOF 4x4 still works.
If this is causing a vaccum leak, why would it cause the pump to run non-stop even when the ESOF is not activated? Does the system create a vaccum in the entire system all the time, regardless of the in cab activation switch?? If this were so, then the auto hubs would always be activated even if the transfer case is not engaged-that would not make sense?
Can I replace just that black hub o-ring? If so, what all is involved? Thanks for any help!
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