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Ok fellas, I was told the motor was a 352 when I purchased my '66. How can I verify that this is correct? Are there casting #'s somewhere on the block that I am overlooking? Would like to know for sure before ordering parts for rebuild. Also if it is a 352 does swapping the internals to a 390 rotating assembly really benefit the performance? I just want a really good pulling motor(torque) for hauling heavy loads.
Also the oil pan drain plug is right over the crossmember on the left side. I would have thought Ford would put the plug on the rear of the pan on trucks as it is a little difficult to get to in this position and creates a mess when changing the oil. This makes me believe this is not the original motor for this truck. Any of you gurus' please chim in as I am at a loss.
Most likely it is a Passenger car engine judging by your oil pan drain location, it could be a passenger car pan on a truck engine too tho.
All FEs are cast with the number 352. The only way I know to tell them apart is by bore & stroke measurements. I would check the stroke 1st.
The difference in torque between a 352 and a 390 is not that great with a scant 4.75 cubic inches per cylinder, maybe between a 352 & 460 where there ar 9 cubic inches per cylinder. But a 352 that runs right will pull a fair load without trouble.
A 460 will pull it with ease though.
Its likely the original my 66 oil pan is the same way. The front left side of engine(drvr pos) should have 352 cast into th block (this does not mean its a 352). Might be covered by power steering if you have it. Otherwise should be in plain view. Now the blocks are all cast with this so it could be a 360, 390..but if stock is a 352. Doesnt mean it's not .030 over by now, mine wasnt didnt need to be but ill use of a ridge reamer is what it is ;( If your unsure as to it being an FE look at the valve covers where the head and intake meet if the intake goes under the valve cover its FE. About the only way your going to be able to know for sure is to tear into it. Although a TDC/TBC stroke test in the spark plug hole will tell you if it's a 352 but not the bore size. If rebuilding it dont buy anything until it's torn down and "everything is mic'd". If you find you need an overbore "Do not forget to position/torque the main caps before boring" If going to a race engine have them use a torque plate. Well I'll shutup someone else is sure to have a bit to add
Also the oil pan drain plug is right over the crossmember on the left side. I would have thought Ford would put the plug on the rear of the pan on trucks as it is a little difficult to get to in this position and creates a mess when changing the oil. This makes me believe this is not the original motor for this truck.
Nope, that's original. Every FE powered 'slick' I've owned has been that way. Factory rustproofing feature for the crossmember I guess.
Yes it is a FE with the stampings of 352 but I did not know if I could find other #'s that would tell that it was a 352,360 or 390. I did by a book a while back about Ford parts interchangeabilty and it has some Id'ing info in it but mainly covers 390's and up. It does have some info on the "smaller" FEs'.
So according to FBp I will more than likely stay with stock internals. She's a tired motor so she'll get a rebuild this spring/summer. Anymore info is welcome.
66 POJ, There was only one V8 offered in 66, A 352 2 barrel. Ford was never big on numbers so you can not look at a block and tell what size engine is inside. The 360 replaced the 352 in trucks only, it was never installed in a car. The 360 is a 390 bore engine with a 352 crank.
You will have to measure the bore and stroke to know for sure what engine you have.
We live in a bigger is better world, and Pete has a very well thought out and planned truck. Not his first or second, but you can tell that he had a plan before he started. A fresh 352 specked right, will deliver a great pulling engine for your truck. If you want a 390 buy one and rebuild it, you can use the sheetmetal from your engine if needed. The 360 heads are some of the best that you can get for a truck motor.
I'd say just home port your stock heads while their off takes a day pretty much and a numb arm Made all the difference in the world in my setup. Ok well the RV Cam,4bbl intake and 4160 played a part in it too. I'll just say that after getting the tuning just pretty good two kids in a 93 or so Toy 4x4 V6 with SC pulled up at a light and started reving and laughing. I let it into L and when the light turned green gave ole bessy a kiss. The look on the passenger younen's face was priceless as the old rust bucket Ford laid a 40yd black mark wound up to 35k then I sliped her up to green dot go and she slapped down another 10yard o how do you do... Was the besyt darn feeling in a long time .
Redmanbob
Last edited by jowilker; Nov 17, 2006 at 09:18 AM.
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