just wondering what to torque the 5 compressor housing bolts too? and wether or not to use never seize or locktite on them?

 

torque them down to 200 inch pounds, or ~17 ft-lb. Use blue locktite on them. Don't tighten too far, you will strip out the aluminum backplate, ask me how.

 

thanks kris. I'll have to either find someone with a shallow 12pt fot that bolt by the valve cover....or else just guess how tight with the wrench.

 

If you have room to get a crows foot in there, knock off about 1 ft lb of torque on your wrench... that will put you real close to what little you gain in leverage from the offset of the average crows foot's length. Use a staggered torque sequence and dont make a mistake and use red locktite... holds better under heat and vibration but if you have to take it back apart down the road....bye bye aluminum threads.... ask me how I know LOL

 

ATS installed....problems arised........ 5-8 psi lower...higher EGT and loss in midrange power? boost leak perhaps?

 

Yes, i can bet on a boost leak. Check all of your pipes, make sure that the pipes are in the hoses. Tighten all of the clamps down. Might be the marmon clamp that holds the compressor manifold to the ATS compressor housing.

 

ok, I checked all the hoses before Itook it out, so hopefully the marmon clamp is the answer. another question, are you still using that plasitc piece that joins the 2 intake hoses together, or did you just use some 4inch pipe?

 

I have a piece of 4" exhaust pipe that i used that i had from my muffler delete. I painted it to match my intercooler pipes.

 

ok, went over everything tightend it all up, still no difference. sprayed either around all connections while idling to see if it would pickup the idle, no dice? what now?

 

Did you do anything besides the Housing?

Could the wastegate be fully open due to miss-adjustment of the acuator arm?

 

Did the big o-ring that goes all the way around the turbo's inner plate stay in place?

 

yes the big O ring was still in, and I used the one from the old housing that goes to the intake Y part. as forthe wastegate, I have it disconnected.....so it shouldnt matter?
when Im going thru the gears it pulls normal till just after 2000rpm, then it noticably falls on its face like I hit a speed limiter.

 

What boost are you seeing when it falls on its face?

 

between 10-15. hooked the wastegate back up, went for a run uphill. pulled about 12psi where I could hit 15ish with the wastegate connected before. went cruisin up a longer hill with wastegate disconnected, only hit 15psi where could tag 21 before, egts 100-150* higher.

 

14. Boost Pressure Test
Purpose:
To determine if the engine can develop sufficient boost to obtain specific power.
16psi between 2500-3000rpm minimum

Recommended Procedure:
Monitor NGS Tester PID MGP and RPM. After the engine is up to operating temperature, find an open section of road and select the best gear to achieve a 2500-3000 rpm acceleration. With the accelerator at WOT, note the highest boost reading while accelerating through the 2500-3000 rpm range. Boost will level out after 3000 rpm. This is best accomplished either climbing a hill or with the vehicle fully loaded.

Alternate Procedure:
Install a T (manufactured locally out of common fittings) into the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor line that comes from the intake manifold. Make sure the MAP sensor is hooked up for this test.

Connect a T to a 0-30 psi gauge that is temporarily installed in the cab. Route the hose so that it is not crimped and does not come in contact with any hot surface.

Possible Causes:
MAP hose pinched or open
Leaking intake, hoses or fittings
Defective turbocharger
Base engine failure
Added Causes for F-Series
Plugged green wastegate hose or port in the charge air intake to the turbo
Wastegate control solenoid not electrically but mechanically inoperative
Wastegate actuator
Wastegate valve
Wastegate turbo
Intercooler hoses leaking
A wastegated turbo is designed to reach maximum boost sooner then a conventional turbo, but overboosting will cause damage to the turbo. The PCM will control the boost pressure by duty cycle to the solenoid to maximize boosting performance. When pressure is supplied on the red hose going to the actuator (solenoid NOT energized) the valve will open, dumping boost. When low or no pressure is on the red hose going to the actuator (solenoid is being energized) the valve will stay closed.