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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rivet removal

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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 06:00 PM
  #1  
PaintedDesert56's Avatar
PaintedDesert56
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From: Show Low AZ
Rivet removal

Hi guys! I'm looking for the easiest way to get rivets out of the frame on my '56. A previous owner cut out the cab support crossmember but left some of rivets in place. I've already got a replacement xmember that bolts in. Thanx
 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 06:02 PM
  #2  
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vettehauler
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From: Mount Prospect, IL
Rivet removal

Air Chisel, or just a hammer and chisel if you cant get an air hammer.

always works for me.

additionally you can grind the heads off with a dremel if it is a real tight spot.
or use an angle grinder.

DRew.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 07:47 PM
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Rivet removal

Center punch and then drill worked for me.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 08:10 PM
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Rivet removal

if you have a steady hand you can wash the head off with a torch... if not use a 4.5" grinder and grind it flush.. then use a drift pin or pin punch and a hammer...(I used a 3# engineers hammer) don't be afraid to use the hammer....it takes some "persuasion" to get them out

john
 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 08:19 PM
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cabby daddy
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Rivet removal

just my .02,

if your not going to re use the hole, I grind the head flush, and paint over it. I never liked the Holy look on a frame.

Robert:-X23
 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 08:46 PM
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From: Waynesville, OH
Rivet removal

After taking out 182 of 'em from my 1956 F-250 frame I found the easiest way was to center punch and drill just through the head with a 5/16" 135 degree split-point drill bit. Then cold chisel the leftover rim of the head off with a nice sharp chisel and a 3 lb hammer. The split-point bit really keeps it from walking and if you do the center punch carefully you won't enlarge the hole in the frame by being off-center. Only drilling through the head also avoids frame damage. I just wrapped some masking tape around the drill bit at the depth I wanted (about 1/4") and used it as a guide for when to stop drilling. I rarely had to hit the leftover part of the rivet head more than once before it just popped off. A small drift will take care of knocking the rivet out of the hole if it sticks.

One other note, if you are going to bolt things together that were originally riveted make sure you use grade 8 bolts and nuts plus an internal tooth lock washer. A low-grade bolt has the same strength as the original mild-steel rivets but you can't get the kind of clamping force with a low-strength bolt that the rivet produces. The internal-tooth lock washer looks better than other kinds IMHO and really locks the nut in place.

George

 
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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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From: Northwest Fl
Rivet removal

A good air chisel worked best for me along with a punch. If you haven't considered it already wear a good set of hearing protectors and safety glasses it will get real noisey before your finished.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 01:39 PM
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Rivet removal

I want to thank all you guys for the valuable input. This is a great site. Time to get sweaty.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 04:03 PM
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Rivet removal

 
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