FUel Pump/Tank
So I have to replace my pump on my 93 Bronco, 351. I got the tank dropped (And what a PITA that was, getting to those two fuel connections over the tank... grrrr.)
Anyway, the locking ring.... How do I get that? I mean, Beyond the PB Blaster/Liquid wrench and tap tap tapping with a brass punch for days. Is there some super slick secret method? (Torch maybe?
) I've already started to shear off the 4 little tabs you're supposed to use to spin it. Is ther a "best" destructive way to get it out?Once I get it off, how likely is it that the rest of the mounting points on the main pump/sender carriage will be re-usable? Problem is I already own the pump and the sending unit , I was planning on re-using them on the old mounting assembly but I'm worried that anything destructive I do to get the lock ring off will also damage that assembly. I don't have the receipts so I can't return them and buy a whole full pump/sender assembly from the Graveyard.
Also, I saw somewhere a mention of cutting a hole in the rear deck of the bronco so in the future I could avoid dropping the tank for repeats of this. Anyone know of an online link to this, particularly, how did people fit the patch back in, waterproofing, fastening etc?
Finally, once I have the sender out , besides rinsing out the inside of the tank, any other preventative steps I should take while I have it out?
Any help would be great .
Thanks,
Chad
PS- I'm sure this has been discussed a million times, but I couldn't find the search function for the forums. Am I just blind?
Try going here, not sure if it will help, but I know I just found a place I'd like to keep for reference.
It might not be exactly what you need, but worth a shot anyhow
The trick is to make sure you secure the tank so it is not moving around while striking the tabs. I placed my tanks on my front lawn holding them between my feet
Since you've got the tank out, you can measure underneath the body to where the tank lock ring would sit and then cut a hole in the bed above approximately 11 inches square. I say approximately because it's easier to fit the cover plate from the top of a bed rib 11 inches (or so) over to the nearest rib top. To water proof the cover plate I've used the putty type weatherstripping or the foam rubber stuff that goes under corregated roofing. They both work. I used the 18 guage sheetmetal from Home Depot cut to fit for the access cover. Then it's only four or eight screws to secure it and you're done. The only time you need to drop the tank after that is to replace it. If I can find that little memory card thingy that goes in the digital camera I can post some pics of my '93 access port, as right now I'm in the process of replacing my sending unit and everything's exposed.




