Fuel Line Disconnect
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Fuel Line Disconnect
Hello everyone,
I have a 94 F350 with a 460. Currently I am in the process of replacing the rear fuel tank but have ran into a snag. I have gotten the old tank off disconnected the fuel pump/sending unit wire but cannot figure out how in the heck I am supposed to get the fuel lines off of the sending unit that fits down into the tank. I need to get the lines disconnected so that I can replace the tank locking ring. Can someone PLEASE HELP?
I have a 94 F350 with a 460. Currently I am in the process of replacing the rear fuel tank but have ran into a snag. I have gotten the old tank off disconnected the fuel pump/sending unit wire but cannot figure out how in the heck I am supposed to get the fuel lines off of the sending unit that fits down into the tank. I need to get the lines disconnected so that I can replace the tank locking ring. Can someone PLEASE HELP?
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
If they are the lines I am thinking about, they don't come off, they are part of the sending unit. (it they are the two metal lines). You spin the ring to release and pull it up with the unit.
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Thanks...1081 for taking the time for your reply! I looked at other postings. Now I am definite confused. They are the lines that go into the unit that sits within the tank itself. One of the hoses are blue and one is black and I believe that one of them are (if not both have steel braids around it). Please tell me if I am understanding other what I have read before I buy a $30 tool and use it only once. The tool that people have been mentioning is a 3/8 & 5/16 Fuel Line Disconnect Set. A few members have said NOT to get the one that can be use on A/C Lines & Fuel Lines both but get the one that is for Fuel Lines only because it can go deeper within the coupling housing. Is this the way to go?
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Welcome F350FBG.
Drop into the Fuel Injection, Carburetion and Fuel System forum, click on this link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum72/
Also drop an intro into your local Maryland Chapter: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum186/
Drop into the Fuel Injection, Carburetion and Fuel System forum, click on this link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum72/
Also drop an intro into your local Maryland Chapter: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum186/
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Thanks Fomoko1...GREAT information. As you can tell I am sort of green at this whole blogging thread stuff. I had no idea that there was a Maryland Chapter. Being originally from Indiana its good to know that their are some DIY Ford Mechanics around here. I thought that most people drove BMW's or Audi's around here and took their cars to the dealers when they needed work done on them.
I will check the links out that you provided and let you know how everything turns out.
One last thing, if I monkey up the fuel line and am forced to replace the lines ends...what do you think about the quick release connector (plastic). In my search to finding out how to get the sending unit disconnected from the hoses - I ran across the quick release system.
Welp, I am off to buy the Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - wish me luck! Thanks again for taking the time to read my questions! This site is AWESOME!
I will check the links out that you provided and let you know how everything turns out.
One last thing, if I monkey up the fuel line and am forced to replace the lines ends...what do you think about the quick release connector (plastic). In my search to finding out how to get the sending unit disconnected from the hoses - I ran across the quick release system.
Welp, I am off to buy the Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - wish me luck! Thanks again for taking the time to read my questions! This site is AWESOME!
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 97,590
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Hi F350FBG, I`m not familiar with your truck`s fuel system so I can`t offer any sound advice hence the links to the knowledgeable forum source.
Do check out your local Maryland Chapter to meet up with nearby members and make new friends there, I spend a lot of enjoyable time in my local chapter.
Good luck and hope continue to enjoy this site!
Morris.
Do check out your local Maryland Chapter to meet up with nearby members and make new friends there, I spend a lot of enjoyable time in my local chapter.
Good luck and hope continue to enjoy this site!
Morris.
Last edited by Fomoko1; Nov 13, 2007 at 11:13 AM.
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
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<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1
lace w:st="on">EUREKA</st1lace></st1:City>!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Well, I got everything installed and back together. Actually the sending unit hoses were the easiest part after I got that special tool. It was probably the best $25 I have ever spent. For everyone that helped me with this situation - thank you VERY VERY MUCH! There is truly hope for mankind with people like you guys in the world!<o></o>
<o></o>
If by some chance anyone reads this posting that might have the same questions that I had - here's what worked for me (just my way of paying it "ford"-ward.) This takes into consideration that you are replacing the REAR tank, the fuel in this tank has been drained and you are NOT an idiot when it comes to working with fire or spark producing tools/substance around a fuel tank that has a lot of gas vapors.<o></o>
<o></o>
Everything that gets unbolted is pretty much straight forward and if you are considering doing a tank replacement yourself - I would assume that you have a degree of experience in turning a wrench so I won’t go into the elementary disassembly portion of it. One key note about the disassembly portion of the tank is that the tank "JUST FITS" into the frame by a hair on each side front and back. That said, be sure to check the trailer hitch frame to ensure that the spacers are within the profile of the frame. If they are not - you will have problems removing the old tank and uploading the new one. I took my off before starting the project. Coat them with WD-40 the night before you start.<o></o>
<o></o>
Once you get to the steps of detaching the tank's sending unit (some may call it a pump - still not sure which is correct) <o></o>
<o></o>
1.) With the rear of the tank hanging down and resting on a piece of wood (I used two short 4x4’s) disconnect the electrical harness that goes into the sending unit - NOT from the sending unit itself but from a male/female connector that is located and mounted via a plastic wire collector behind the rear cross member frame. This cross member frame is the piece of metal that runs right in front of the gas tank and the fuel feed lines run on top of it.<o></o>
<o></o>
2.) Now that some of the tension of the wire is relieved - I removed the main fuel fill tube that goes into the tank when you are at the gas station filling up. Next, I disengaged the tanks locking ring - NOTE: use a brass or wooden rod to tap the locking ring free (tap in a counter-clockwise direction) so that you don't cause a spark. For obvious, reasons <st1:City w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">Sparks</st1lace></st1:City> and Gas Fumes do not mix! I coated this old locking ring with a good bit of WD-40 the night before so that it was somewhat easier to remove. Once free, remove the tank. BE SURE you are mindful when taking the sending unit out of the tank because you DO NOT want to accidentally cut through the black and red wires or nick the insulation on these wires that is a part of the sending unit. The tank has sharp edges and can cut the wires or yourself. You have to be very careful when working the tank away from the sending unit and you have very limited space to negotiate the 19 Gallon tank – so be patient and don’t force it.<o></o>
<o></o>
3.) Now all you have is the sending unit hanging from the gas lines. Upon these two line there are two stainless steel clips that are mounted upon each end of the hoses that you want to separate. The clips are easily detached by using a flat head screwdriver to pry them off. Once you get the clips off you will need to purchase a Fuel Line Removal tool. The tool needed by my F350 called for a tool that is 3/8" on one end and a 5/16" on the other. The 3/8" end is used on the blue hose and the 5/16" is used on the gray hose. I can't remember if one or both hoses have a steel braid dressing over it but you will know when you are under your truck. Also, if you can't tell the color of the hoses clean them with a mist of carb cleaner and wipe them clean. I have read that they make a universal tool that fits both A/C and Fuel Lines alike but this universal tool does not go deep enough within the fuel line female housing to push in the tabs located within the housing. I bought one that came with an A/C Tool and Fuel Line Tool. Ok, now that you have the tool...how do you use it??? This is a question that I had myself. The back of the tools package has some stupid illustration BUT, gives you an idea of what needs to be done. What worked for me was placing the tool head around the hose with the tools sleeve inserted into the female end of the hose metal housing. With your left hand grasp the female housing firmly and push it into the tool and at the same time with your right hand grasp the male hose with your index and thumb behind the Fuel Line Tool and push everything together. You may have to use a little force for the tool to engage the tabs that are located within the female housing. NOTE, you will not hear a magic "click" or special noise that tells you that the hose has been disengaged nor will you see the tabs until you have the hoses disengaged. Use some WD-40 to lubricate the joint of the hose and to clear out any debris that has collected within this coupling over the ages, it will also ease the hose coupling separation. Once you have the first hose done it’s on to the second and you are good to go to install the new tank lock ring/gasket and everything else.<o></o>
<o></o>
Also, upon reassembly I found it easier to install the big fill hose first. Then feed the fill hose up over the top of the frame and then once everything is in place I went back and connected this hose to the fill neck. So in a nutshell you could install the left side of the tank first and then push the right side up and in.<o></o>
<o></o>
I hope the tips can help someone out there as the other folks helped me! <o></o>
<o></o>
PLEASE NOTE: I am NOT a mechanic by trade nor do I claim to know it all about working on vehicle(s). I am just a simple average man that does not like to pay an arm and a leg for something I can do myself.
BTW - The truck is a F-350 with a 460 Big Block
ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">EUREKA</st1lace></st1:City>!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>Well, I got everything installed and back together. Actually the sending unit hoses were the easiest part after I got that special tool. It was probably the best $25 I have ever spent. For everyone that helped me with this situation - thank you VERY VERY MUCH! There is truly hope for mankind with people like you guys in the world!<o
></o><o
></o>If by some chance anyone reads this posting that might have the same questions that I had - here's what worked for me (just my way of paying it "ford"-ward.) This takes into consideration that you are replacing the REAR tank, the fuel in this tank has been drained and you are NOT an idiot when it comes to working with fire or spark producing tools/substance around a fuel tank that has a lot of gas vapors.<o
></o><o
></o>Everything that gets unbolted is pretty much straight forward and if you are considering doing a tank replacement yourself - I would assume that you have a degree of experience in turning a wrench so I won’t go into the elementary disassembly portion of it. One key note about the disassembly portion of the tank is that the tank "JUST FITS" into the frame by a hair on each side front and back. That said, be sure to check the trailer hitch frame to ensure that the spacers are within the profile of the frame. If they are not - you will have problems removing the old tank and uploading the new one. I took my off before starting the project. Coat them with WD-40 the night before you start.<o
></o><o
></o>Once you get to the steps of detaching the tank's sending unit (some may call it a pump - still not sure which is correct) <o
></o><o
></o>1.) With the rear of the tank hanging down and resting on a piece of wood (I used two short 4x4’s) disconnect the electrical harness that goes into the sending unit - NOT from the sending unit itself but from a male/female connector that is located and mounted via a plastic wire collector behind the rear cross member frame. This cross member frame is the piece of metal that runs right in front of the gas tank and the fuel feed lines run on top of it.<o
></o><o
></o>2.) Now that some of the tension of the wire is relieved - I removed the main fuel fill tube that goes into the tank when you are at the gas station filling up. Next, I disengaged the tanks locking ring - NOTE: use a brass or wooden rod to tap the locking ring free (tap in a counter-clockwise direction) so that you don't cause a spark. For obvious, reasons <st1:City w:st="on"><st1
lace w:st="on">Sparks</st1lace></st1:City> and Gas Fumes do not mix! I coated this old locking ring with a good bit of WD-40 the night before so that it was somewhat easier to remove. Once free, remove the tank. BE SURE you are mindful when taking the sending unit out of the tank because you DO NOT want to accidentally cut through the black and red wires or nick the insulation on these wires that is a part of the sending unit. The tank has sharp edges and can cut the wires or yourself. You have to be very careful when working the tank away from the sending unit and you have very limited space to negotiate the 19 Gallon tank – so be patient and don’t force it.<o></o><o
></o>3.) Now all you have is the sending unit hanging from the gas lines. Upon these two line there are two stainless steel clips that are mounted upon each end of the hoses that you want to separate. The clips are easily detached by using a flat head screwdriver to pry them off. Once you get the clips off you will need to purchase a Fuel Line Removal tool. The tool needed by my F350 called for a tool that is 3/8" on one end and a 5/16" on the other. The 3/8" end is used on the blue hose and the 5/16" is used on the gray hose. I can't remember if one or both hoses have a steel braid dressing over it but you will know when you are under your truck. Also, if you can't tell the color of the hoses clean them with a mist of carb cleaner and wipe them clean. I have read that they make a universal tool that fits both A/C and Fuel Lines alike but this universal tool does not go deep enough within the fuel line female housing to push in the tabs located within the housing. I bought one that came with an A/C Tool and Fuel Line Tool. Ok, now that you have the tool...how do you use it??? This is a question that I had myself. The back of the tools package has some stupid illustration BUT, gives you an idea of what needs to be done. What worked for me was placing the tool head around the hose with the tools sleeve inserted into the female end of the hose metal housing. With your left hand grasp the female housing firmly and push it into the tool and at the same time with your right hand grasp the male hose with your index and thumb behind the Fuel Line Tool and push everything together. You may have to use a little force for the tool to engage the tabs that are located within the female housing. NOTE, you will not hear a magic "click" or special noise that tells you that the hose has been disengaged nor will you see the tabs until you have the hoses disengaged. Use some WD-40 to lubricate the joint of the hose and to clear out any debris that has collected within this coupling over the ages, it will also ease the hose coupling separation. Once you have the first hose done it’s on to the second and you are good to go to install the new tank lock ring/gasket and everything else.<o
></o><o
></o>Also, upon reassembly I found it easier to install the big fill hose first. Then feed the fill hose up over the top of the frame and then once everything is in place I went back and connected this hose to the fill neck. So in a nutshell you could install the left side of the tank first and then push the right side up and in.<o
></o><o
></o>I hope the tips can help someone out there as the other folks helped me! <o
></o><o
></o>PLEASE NOTE: I am NOT a mechanic by trade nor do I claim to know it all about working on vehicle(s). I am just a simple average man that does not like to pay an arm and a leg for something I can do myself.
BTW - The truck is a F-350 with a 460 Big Block
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