Radius arm isolators
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Radius arm isolators
Could anyone enlighten me to the procedure for replacing the rubber isolators at the rear end of the radius arms? I have a 94 Ranger XLT extended cab 4X4. I have seen the "official" procedure but was curious if there was an easier way. Thanks to all who reply 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 769
Likes: 12
From: Moneta, VA
What is your "offical procedure?" I think some of the shop manuals recommend you remove much of the front suspension, which is unnessary.
Most shops drill out the rivets that hold the bracket for the rear of the radius arm to the frame. This allows you to replace the bushings without removing all that other stuff. The rivets are then replaced with nuts and bolts of a high grade. I'm glad I did it this way, I've already had to replace them twice and my truck has only 86K miles on it.
Most shops drill out the rivets that hold the bracket for the rear of the radius arm to the frame. This allows you to replace the bushings without removing all that other stuff. The rivets are then replaced with nuts and bolts of a high grade. I'm glad I did it this way, I've already had to replace them twice and my truck has only 86K miles on it.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Yes.. a pneumatic hammer works best to chisel those suckers off, but if it's not available use a high quality chisel and a BFH (Big ****** Hammer).
Much easier this way.
Also before tightening the radius arm nuts back on, make sure the vehicle is sitting on the wheels, and get it aligned afterwords..
And YES the metal shield on the passenger side IS necessary.
Good luck
Much easier this way.
Also before tightening the radius arm nuts back on, make sure the vehicle is sitting on the wheels, and get it aligned afterwords..
And YES the metal shield on the passenger side IS necessary.
Good luck
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Thanks for the replies. I had planned on removing the rivits and then bolting it back on with grade 8 hardware. the "official" procedure I have is "take off the whole front end" out of a Ford manual. I just wanted to see if there were any easier ways I didn't know about. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,651
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From: Maine
I'm going to be doing this sometime soon, too. I found this thread. Anybody know anything more about more chance of new noises from drilling the rivets out? I hate suspension noise...
Also, can anybody give me an idea of how much handling improvement versus how much ride degradation I'm likely to see with poly bushings?
Also, can anybody give me an idea of how much handling improvement versus how much ride degradation I'm likely to see with poly bushings?
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 33
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I did this on my '87 ranger STX, due to rusted out radius arm brackets. I did not notice any additional noises. Did not use poly bushings, but seem to recall the are supposed to stiffen things up a bit. Also found that when I replaced my brackets, they came from Ford with a 1" spacer block, effectively lifting the front end. These were the correct STX brackets. Good luck.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 769
Likes: 12
From: Moneta, VA
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 871
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I've done over a hundred by cutting the rivets.. never had any noise complaints.. just make sure you use the largest bolt that will fit into the hole, and locktite so it doesn't come loose.
Good luck
Good luck
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