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One fouled plug

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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 09:51 AM
  #1  
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One fouled plug

Folks,

I have one plug that is dry fouled black. Comp test shows 150psi. The rest look good. Timing light suggests I have spark. I've swaped plugs and wires.

Possible causes???

Cap??

Would the coil cause this?

It's the #5 plug on my 390. Misses at Idle appears to clear up at higher RPMs.

Suggestions?


thanks

bob
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 12:58 PM
  #2  
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Bad plug, bad wire, bad valve stem seal or a stuck closed exhaust valve.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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"Beemer Nut"'s Avatar
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From: "Islander"
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Bad plug, bad wire, bad valve stem seal or a stuck closed exhaust valve.
He said it clears up at higher rpm's, what would the pushrod look like from a stuck closed valve? How can it clear up and even fire?
I smell Bear Poo, sorry.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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Probably he thinks it clears up at higher RPM because the firing pulses just come a lot more often and cover it up.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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From: "Islander"
If it were my motor I would check plug wire resistances, run the plugs thru a pressurized plug tester or replace with new but still test 'em and change the cap. One thing, was a compression test done on all 8?
A intake manifold gasket leak around #5 port under the manifold can't be detected with carb spray and compression check alone.
It would take a long time to get a white lean plug reading holding the throttle up to where it just clears up but worth a try then compare with the other plugs.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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On my third plug.
I swapped wires and I'm on my second set. It takes about 5 mins to blacken. It apperas to be getting good spark when I hold it against the block.

Checking for a stuck valve would be?? Pop the valve cover watch the rocker go up down? Spin the pushrods.

My buddy is lending me his IR gun to check temps on the cylinder. The n he suggested I'm spendint ot much time on it and run see what happens.

Also The cylinder held 150psi for 1 hour +.

thanks

bob
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:07 PM
  #7  
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From: "Islander"
You have the correct heat range plug for your build?
If that's a yes with your fuel fouling plugs it sounds like a carb problem.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 5, 2006 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
You have the correct heat range plug for your build?
If that's a yes with your fuel fouling plugs it sounds like a carb problem.
A carb causing this problem on one cylinder only? Don't think I ever heard of that one. The carb might screw up 4 cyliders with a duel plain manifold if one side of the cab was way rich. but just one cylinder, not gonna happen. I think the valve cover needs to come off to confirm there aren't any bent push rods and the exhaust valve.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:50 PM
  #9  
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From: "Islander"
Oops me bad, thinking more than one plug carbon fouling.
Left brain and right brain in conflict again.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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Check for an exhaust leak around the exhaust or header flange on Number 5 plug.
Check for bad spark wire.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:26 AM
  #11  
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Will do buck.

Would a bad cap do this?

bob
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:47 AM
  #12  
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Yes, if cracked.
Want to eliminate any source, that can create an engine miss or misfire.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 12:05 PM
  #13  
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From: "Islander"
You check lifter preload on intakee and exhauste on #5?
When hot and running bottoming out just enough to just open a valve off the seat and loose compression but seats on compression check when cooled down a little.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 6, 2006 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 12:48 PM
  #14  
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Beemer thanks, but could you slow down a little.

thanks

bob
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Beemer, I hope that didn't come out wrong.

I'm just not familure with some of the terms and methods you suggested. Could you please explain.

bob
 
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