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Bad plug, bad wire, bad valve stem seal or a stuck closed exhaust valve.
He said it clears up at higher rpm's, what would the pushrod look like from a stuck closed valve? How can it clear up and even fire?
I smell Bear Poo, sorry.
If it were my motor I would check plug wire resistances, run the plugs thru a pressurized plug tester or replace with new but still test 'em and change the cap. One thing, was a compression test done on all 8?
A intake manifold gasket leak around #5 port under the manifold can't be detected with carb spray and compression check alone.
It would take a long time to get a white lean plug reading holding the throttle up to where it just clears up but worth a try then compare with the other plugs.
On my third plug.
I swapped wires and I'm on my second set. It takes about 5 mins to blacken. It apperas to be getting good spark when I hold it against the block.
Checking for a stuck valve would be?? Pop the valve cover watch the rocker go up down? Spin the pushrods.
My buddy is lending me his IR gun to check temps on the cylinder. The n he suggested I'm spendint ot much time on it and run see what happens.
You have the correct heat range plug for your build?
If that's a yes with your fuel fouling plugs it sounds like a carb problem.
A carb causing this problem on one cylinder only? Don't think I ever heard of that one. The carb might screw up 4 cyliders with a duel plain manifold if one side of the cab was way rich. but just one cylinder, not gonna happen. I think the valve cover needs to come off to confirm there aren't any bent push rods and the exhaust valve.
You check lifter preload on intakee and exhauste on #5?
When hot and running bottoming out just enough to just open a valve off the seat and loose compression but seats on compression check when cooled down a little.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 6, 2006 at 12:08 PM.