I have an 85 f250 with a 351w. I am trying to change the oil pan gasket but cant get the pan out because of the oil pump. How do i get the pan out.

 

Lift the motor and put wood blocks under the motor mounts to suspend the motor.
Unbolt and lower the pan.
Reach in between the motor and pan and unbolt the oil pump and pick-up tube and drop them into the pan.
Finagle the pan out from under the motor.
Clean everything up and glue the cork gasket to the bottom of the motor with contact cement.
Put the pump back into the pan and assemble in reverse order.
Install the pump's driveshaft with the keeper clip at the higher level. (it is there to keep the driveshaft from falling into the pan when the distributor is removed)
Do not use gasket sealer on the cork. It is to slippery and will cause the gasket to "scooch out" when the bolts are tightened.
Have fun and enjoy the drippy agravating mess!
Steve G

 

Does the same apply whether it is 4x4 or 2 wheel drive?

 

haha yea i tried the same with my 302 mustang oil pan, it wasnt comin out so i had to do things the hard way, stick the gasket on the motor with sylicone and then stressfully hold the pan with one hand and start adden the bolts to keep it in place, i never wanna do it that way again.lol.

 

I use to use a cherry picker to lift motors a hair for clearance, but the last oil pan I dropped I had to use the jack and blocks, but that was a V6. I've had to put the gaskets on while the pan was still in too. Had a pan one time that just the pickup tube was hitting on, and somehow got in to unbolt it due to the design allowing me to do that, and was able to get It back in luckily, but some pickup tube designs don't allow for that, and you still have to have room to get the pickup loose and reinstall It, and It was'nt easy. These were all different type motors though. Each one seems to have a life of it's own and a puzzle to figure out.
Have to be carefull, and sure that the trans mounts allow for jacking & that you have enough flexability. If you unbolt them you can risk shifting the motor & trans, and need a cherry picker to get It realigned. whatever I did I would try to make sure no limbs got pinched in the proccess and everything was really secure & well supported. jack real slowly also and listen out for funny creaking sounds. also need something between the jack and pan to make sure it does dent the bottom if jacking off of it. I would'nt feel too safe jacking it off of the harmonic balancer though, so If the pan is unbolted I would bolt It back on, and use it.
I'm sure someone here has your same model and motor though, and knows which bests suits your situation.

 

Ok oil pan is done. What a pain! Now I need to fix the valve cover leaking. I put new gaskets in about a month ago. Damn thing just wont stop leaking. It is spraying on the manifold, plug wires and even the steering shaft. Any tips on what to do to get it to stop leaking.

 

Check the valve cover itself when you take it off. Place it on a flat surface and check for warpage. They get overtorqued because people,(myself included) thighten them down way too much, trying to stop a leak. Use a higher quality Valve cover gasket like Felpro. They have a much thicker sealing surface than the cork style and some times have gromets in the bolt hole areas to prevent overtorque and warpage. That is if the valve cover is still servicable.

 

Check to make sure your PCV valve is drawing air thru it when the motor is running and not plugged. If the PCV is not working the blow-by from the pistons will pressurize the crankcase and cause the gaskets to leak.. Also make sure the oil fill vent to the air filter is not restricted.
Steve G.
PS. Your welcome for the advice!

 

Thanks for the help guys. One more question. When I bought the truck the last owner really rigged things pretty bad. I don't know much about carberated engines is there a place online I can go to give me more info on this engine like vacum diagrams, wiring diagrams, what kinda parts are in the engine and what their hp ratings are? I know just about everything about modular engines but with the older ones I'm at a loss. Thanks again for your help.

 

a chilton or haynes manual can tell you these things

 

I have a haynes and it doesnt really help other then wire diagram. Im trying to see what is actually suposed to be connected thats not and if things are connected right vacum wise.