Sam

If you want you can look in my roll pan gallery to see how I did it using 7241-B. This pan was bought at least 5 yrs ago. Mine does not replace the bed extension, maybe thay have been changed sense then

I plug welded the part under the tailgate and welded the side panel and filled all of the seams.

If I remember correctly mine was bought from MId Fiftys but actually came from Sir Michaels.

Chuck

 

thanks.. for some reason that back view cleared something up for me..

the roll pan fits between the stake pockets.. its only that wide.. duh..

guess I'll be doing this one instead..

Sam

 

Sam,
The only thing I was not happy with mine is the tag is not cutout deep enough to encompass the entire tag. When I do my gas tank replacement in the next couple of weeks I plan to modify my roll pan so the tag totally sits in the roll pan. May want to tackle that before you install it if it bothers you. I just dont want my tag to hang down an inch or so below the roll pan. Looking for a smooth line there except for the tail pipes... Good Luck

 

yeh, that was one thing I want to avoid as well..

Sam

 

I had to cut the top of the opening higher so my lic plate frame (with light) would slip up to hide the light.

Chuck

 

Rolled pans are one of the simplest fabrications there is, even if you have to pay someone to do the welding it's likely to be cheaper than buying one.

 

Thanks. getting a consistant curve across such a large distance and some straight tight bends across this same distance is beyond my capability..

Having someone do it for me will NOT be cheap in Austin..

Sam

 

Any decent sheetmetal shop can bend the sharp bend and the roll in it for you. I had a similar piece bent out of 18 ga. 5' long for under my dash that cost me 45.00 including the metal.
Even if you needed to bend it yourself it's not difficult, you can build a servicable brake out of 3 2x6's and a couple hinges and c clamps, or a longer wearing one out of three length of angle iron.

 

the least expensive metal shop I've found near here is $50/hr, $50 minimum, and they do not supply the material for these low volume jobs..

Sam

 

I have the best luck looking for shops that make furnace ducts or roof flashings. Rather than walking in the front door of the showroom and dealing with a receptionist or salesman I go around back and look for an open service door or loading dock and walk into the shop. Without disturbing the guy(s) working if they are busy I wait until it looks like they are taking a breather. I ask if the work with cold rolled steel in 22 to 18 ga, and do they sell their floor drops, that I have just gotten a MIG welder and need some smaller pieces to practice on before I start welding on my 19XX Ford F100 that I am restoring. I'll also make sure I have a picture of the truck on me and show it like a proud parent. If they say no, or aren't very friendly I ask if they know of another shop in the area that might have what I'm looking for. If they say that I can rummage thru their scrap I pick out a nice handfull of pieces that look like I might be able to use on the truck, and pay whatever they ask for it (in my experience that's been from nothing to a few dollars, I make sure I have put an assortment of small bills in my wallet to pay with, but only a modest amount.). The next time I go back if the guy has been nice I bring him a dozen donuts, and pick up some more pieces. By now I have also looked around at the machines they have and ask about their capabilities and ask them if I needed a particular shape and size piece made could they make it for me, then describe the size and basic shape I need. If they say yes I ask if he has any idea what price range might be.
I find this face to face, work up to what I need works best than calling on the phone or walking in the front door and asking about a project. The place I use is a roofing company's metal shop, but they carry a wide range of metal including stainless steel, hot and cold rolled steel as well as aluminum in sheet and diamond plate. The guy in the shop is always willing to do quick custom jobs when he's between company jobs, and it's just possible the cash I pay him ends up in his pocket rather than thru the business books. It only takes a couple minutes to shear and brake a piece of sheetmetal.
There is another place here that's a heavy metal welding and fabricator. I go there to get heavier metal from 16 ga to several inches thick and everything up to huge I beams. It's a very old company run by two brothers who are well into their 70s or 80s and they have a huge scrap pile outside that I'm welcome to rummage thru for free as well as go thru their drops for typically 5>00 for all I want. They have giant machines that can cut or bend 1/2" steel 10' long or punch out disks as fast as they can feed it.
They have made me several special pieces out of 1/8" and 1/4" sheet. As long as I don't try to rush them they will do it very inexpensively, but I was there one day when a guy came in and wanted some metal cut and bent, and insisted they do it right then. They looked him in the eye and told him they would do it when they got good and ready, and if that wasn't to his liking he was welcome to go elsewhere! After he left, they said "no one was going to tell them when they HAD to do something! Had he not insisted they would have done it the same day..."

 

AX,
Ah yes, the time honored method of building relationships. It usually always works well.
While looking for some reinforced rubber I ended up at a local gasket and seal maker and after some chit-chat and a round of cokes for the shop guys I had a nice drop of 3/16 reinforced rubber (I cut it into squares and used it between the bed and frame).
Recently I need a drop of 2" tubing, a quick stop at the local Midas Muffler and another round of cokes and I'm walking out the door with a freebie.

When I was running a steel fabrication shop I would get the occasional person looking for a drop, or to have something cut, punched, etc. I would gladly give away scrap, sometimes I would charge for drops, I typically charged for labor. As long a they were friendly, and not pushy I could usually find a way to squeeze them in (just a side note: the cash I got from these deals I kept in the petty cash fund along with the money from the scrap steel....every couple of weeks or so I would buy a bunch of food and grill it up for the shop or treat them all to breakfast from the "roach coach")

Good luck
Bobby

 

Midfifty pulled down the 7241-b pan, and checked it out (and faxed me the instructions).. The catalog is wrong (again!)..

this one (flush, rounded, with LP box), attaches to the bottom of the extensions, does not require removing them. also the LP box is 13x6x2.
the LP is 12x 5-7/8 so it won't stick out.

The instructions clearly say to clamp/weld/screw the sides to the extensions
(and the fenders to keep it from rattling)..

SO, we will try this one!..

Sam