Bought a 1954 F-100 with a 239. The motor is stuck, any suggestions to get it going.

 

I asked the same question a couple months ago. Unfortunateley, none of the suggestions worked. We'll be stuck pounding parts out of the block in the long dark hours this winter.

Check this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID90/2536.html

Looks like I'll be bringing home a parts truck this weekend. Decent fenders and bed, questionable cab, no engine or tranny. Pictures to follow.

Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100

 

Just a quick follow up to the earlier thread, this aimed at the Y block.
If the air cleaner was left off there is an excellent possibility mice may have built a condo in the valley area.
If none of the suggestions work, pull the intake and cover. If its a nest then toss the engine.

Ive a nice running 239 in my 54 that will be coming out this winter.
Also have a complete 55 F250 flatbed with an unknown condition 239; going to either sell complete truck or part out.

 

I've seen my dad free a tractor engine by letting it set in marvel mystery oil and then beating the pistons down with a mallet and a piece of wood, it may work or it may break you engine. Also be careful, water may have seeped into it and or creatures, don't want to scratch the bores up with this stuff.

 

Another method I've heard of is to soak the cylinders with good penetrating oil (fill 'em up - leave the plugs out) and put a breaker bar on the crank. Jack up the truck with the breaker bar (gently, and don't try and get it more than about an inch) and let it sit. The weight of the truck will keep continous force on the crank and it should come loose in a few days... Just check it to make sure the jack dosen't leak down. Or tear it down and beat it out... though you may punch through the piston tops...

Tyson

 

Thanks for all the advice. It sounds like PB Blaster and time are what I will try first. I might try putting a breaker bar on the crank and letting the truck weight help it along. just might work. I will keep you informed on the progress, thanks for the suggestions.

Shane

 

I've seen folks get a mildly stuck engine going by putting some pressure on the crank along with applying various penetrating fluids and oils. I think, though, that you've got a really STUCK engine and will find it MUCH easier to tear the engine down and get things loose one at a time than to try to get the crank turning with all the associated moving parts. It's likely you're looking at doing at least a minor rebuild on the engine anyway.

If you really want to loosen pistons in the engine without breaking anything, follow these steps (let's see if I can remember them all ):

1 - take all the plugs out
2 - put plenty of penetrating fluid or your favorite magic oil in each cylinder
3 - knock the center ceramic part out of one plug so all you have left is a heavy metal ring with a hole in the middle and threads and hex flats on the outside
4 - weld a piece of 1/4" (or 3/8") steel tubing inside the hole of the modified "plug" metal ring so the tubing protrudes about 4" away from the end with the spark electrode
5 - put the modified plug and tubing in the problem cylinder and make sure both valves are closed (they're both closed over half the time on any given cylinder if you leave the camshaft in - if the stuck cylinder has a valve open you can remove the push rod, rocker arm, and/or camshaft to close it)
6 - use a hand pump to apply some hydraulic pressure to the tube in the modified plug

With a 3" bore you get about 7 x PSI pounds force on the piston top and, best of all, it's evenly distributed so you don't trash the piston. 250 PSI gets you almost a ton of force on the piston top.

This method was demonstrated to me on a torn-down engine with five stuck pistons. In about 20 minutes the fellow had carefully popped all five out the bottom with only minor scratches on the cylinder walls. It looked like the hydraulic oil actually forced some of the penetrating fluid down the sides of the pistons. Seemed a lot slicker than the hammer and 2x4 I was going to use!

If anyone sees a step I forgot please update the list. My memory isn't what it was a few years ago. :-X23

George

Oh yeah - DO NOT USE HIGH PRESSURE AIR OR GAS TO PRESSURIZE THE CYLINDER!!! The piston and rod can come out of the cylinder like a great big bullet and put holes in body parts you might still need.

 

 

Is your 239 the flathead or the OHV 239, if it is a flathead, I have one out of a 1949 Lincoln. It is the same motor as in the f-5s and other heavy duty trucks. If it is a flatty, email me at lynndad1959(No Email Addresses In Posts!).


Lynn