92 A* heating problem
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92 A* heating problem
Everyone,
I have a '92 3L V6. No heat out of the vents, only lukewarm at best. Here's what I've done so far:
1. Listened for blend door movement when I move the temp dial. I can definitely hear it moving and the air flow increases as I move it cooler vs. warmer.
2. Replaced the thermostat and gasket. After the engine warms up, the top radiator hose gets hot, indicating the thermostat is letting the coolant through.
3. Temperature gauge on the dash reads normal. No fluctuation at all.
Here's where it gets sketchy... Below the t-stat housing are 2 hoses. They both get very hot, but when I trace them, they are the same hose! It runs out and right back in again after going over the alternator and looping toward the A/C components. Is this right? It's not one continuous hose, but 3 pieces connected together. Forgive my ignorance, but what should I try next? I've read about flushing the heater core, but I'm not sure where those hoses are located.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Ron
I have a '92 3L V6. No heat out of the vents, only lukewarm at best. Here's what I've done so far:
1. Listened for blend door movement when I move the temp dial. I can definitely hear it moving and the air flow increases as I move it cooler vs. warmer.
2. Replaced the thermostat and gasket. After the engine warms up, the top radiator hose gets hot, indicating the thermostat is letting the coolant through.
3. Temperature gauge on the dash reads normal. No fluctuation at all.
Here's where it gets sketchy... Below the t-stat housing are 2 hoses. They both get very hot, but when I trace them, they are the same hose! It runs out and right back in again after going over the alternator and looping toward the A/C components. Is this right? It's not one continuous hose, but 3 pieces connected together. Forgive my ignorance, but what should I try next? I've read about flushing the heater core, but I'm not sure where those hoses are located.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Ron
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From: SoCal
Ron,
The hoses you found under the thermostat (actually, on two nipples coming out of the water pump) should lead to the very edge of the passenger side (left when looking from the front) of the engine compartment, where they connect to the fittings on the fire wall. I am guessing that you are not the original owner of this van? Sounds like the previous owner may have done a quick and dirty stop leak on the heater core by bypassing it.
The hoses you found under the thermostat (actually, on two nipples coming out of the water pump) should lead to the very edge of the passenger side (left when looking from the front) of the engine compartment, where they connect to the fittings on the fire wall. I am guessing that you are not the original owner of this van? Sounds like the previous owner may have done a quick and dirty stop leak on the heater core by bypassing it.
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
Ron,
The hoses you found under the thermostat (actually, on two nipples coming out of the water pump) should lead to the very edge of the passenger side (left when looking from the front) of the engine compartment, where they connect to the fittings on the fire wall. I am guessing that you are not the original owner of this van? Sounds like the previous owner may have done a quick and dirty stop leak on the heater core by bypassing it.
The hoses you found under the thermostat (actually, on two nipples coming out of the water pump) should lead to the very edge of the passenger side (left when looking from the front) of the engine compartment, where they connect to the fittings on the fire wall. I am guessing that you are not the original owner of this van? Sounds like the previous owner may have done a quick and dirty stop leak on the heater core by bypassing it.
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From: SoCal
Well, the two hoses from the water pump that are connected to each other will need to be separated, and connected to the heater fittings. There's a good chance that you will need to extend one of them. It's also likely that the heater core is leaking, which is probably why the previous owner did this, so you will have to replace it first. I'm not sure which hose goes to which fitting, but I don't think that that's important; one hose routes the hot water into one end of the heater core, the water exits out the other end, fed back to the water pump by the otehr hose. Some high performance engines use a flow restrictor in the inlet hose to reduce the water pressure going into the core to prevent it from the shock of water pulses driven by a revving engine. But these vans do not have this.
Look at the firewall area to the left of the AC accumulator; you should see the heater core fittings aticking through.
Look at the firewall area to the left of the AC accumulator; you should see the heater core fittings aticking through.
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From: charlotte nc
When you connect the hoses to the firewall ( they then go to the heater core) be prepared to replace the heater core. I garantee you its leaking and .THUS the reason the person that sold you the car bypassed it............
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Realize this an older thread but thought I would chime in (for others that may read).If I were changing the heater core AGAIN! I might add. I would suggest doing away with those quick connects at the core.Just buy a couple extra feet of hose and two hose clamps then make your connections at the core first then feed the hoses through the holes and make your engine connections.I should mention it may be necessary to enlarge the holes to allow the clamps to easy pass through.Hope this helps.
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From: SoCal
Robert,
I think that's the general consensus of everyone here who has done this. The quick connect fittings are designed to be easily slipped together and locked, but not necessarily easy to be disassembled again after 10 or more years of use, and lots of crud have built up around them on the inside. The procedure is to push the connector halves together, and grip the plastic ears of the locking clips with that special tool, but enough for the clips to clear the collar on the hose. Usually, enough crud builds up inside so you can't push the two halves together.
What I finally did in frustration was to break the plastic collars on the hoses, so they pulled right off the heater fittings. There was enough length on the fittings to slip new hoses over them and put clamps around them. You do not need to cut off the fittings, and everything can stay in front of the firewall. But in this case, the heater core is probably leaking, and needs to be replaced.
I think that's the general consensus of everyone here who has done this. The quick connect fittings are designed to be easily slipped together and locked, but not necessarily easy to be disassembled again after 10 or more years of use, and lots of crud have built up around them on the inside. The procedure is to push the connector halves together, and grip the plastic ears of the locking clips with that special tool, but enough for the clips to clear the collar on the hose. Usually, enough crud builds up inside so you can't push the two halves together.
What I finally did in frustration was to break the plastic collars on the hoses, so they pulled right off the heater fittings. There was enough length on the fittings to slip new hoses over them and put clamps around them. You do not need to cut off the fittings, and everything can stay in front of the firewall. But in this case, the heater core is probably leaking, and needs to be replaced.
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I used a heated knife to cut the plastic without excessive force on the core. Propane torch and hacksaw blade. 10 seconds to cut through.
Ken
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by ken1mod
I used a heated knife to cut the plastic without excessive force on the core. Propane torch and hacksaw blade. 10 seconds to cut through.
Ken
Ken
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