95 Aero Ignition Key Won't Insert
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95 Aero Ignition Key Won't Insert
I had to replace the tumbler last year and it is messed up again. It started about two weeks ago when the key didn't insert all the way. You had to give it a little push inorder to crank it. I got in it the other day and the key lacked about half an inch from being all the way in. I noticed the silver wings you use to start the vehicle was at...let's say 12:00 and the key was at 11:00. How can I get it lined up so I can remove the cylinder again? This time I'm going to try and find a new one for an Aerostar. What can I do to FORCE it if I have to? Thanks for any suggestions. I've always gotten good help from this forum.
Reid
E. WA.
Reid
E. WA.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
We did not have this exacty problem, but we got a new cylinder and tumbler mechanism professionaly installed so that it used the same key for 75. The mechanism was superior to the OEM ford unit. I don't know much about fixing the one you have, but I think this is the way to go, so that the key that unlocks the doors also starts the vehicle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Other option: I had a new ignition switch installed on my wife's Aerostar and it was a different key. I had the local hardware cut the door on one side of the blank and the ignition on the other side. Key works both, but is no longer reversible. Nicely the same side goes up for both the door and the ignition, so I filed a notch on the top side for reference. Some have used this trick to put two different Ford vehicles on the same key.
Even more into it, I heard that the door and ignition are different, even if the same key and that somewhere along the length of the key it transitions from the door to the ignition part. I tried having one cut that way, but failed. That would have maintained the reversibility of the key.
Even more into it, I heard that the door and ignition are different, even if the same key and that somewhere along the length of the key it transitions from the door to the ignition part. I tried having one cut that way, but failed. That would have maintained the reversibility of the key.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Both the old and new tumblers should have numbers stamped into them remove the old tumbler from the old lock and note the number find the new tumbler with the same number and insert it into the same place on the new cylinder.
If you go used you will have to use the old tumblers since the used lock may not accept the same key pattern. If the key doesn't work on the used lock when you use the old tumblers then the old tumblers are probably worn and will need to be replaced.
If you go used you will have to use the old tumblers since the used lock may not accept the same key pattern. If the key doesn't work on the used lock when you use the old tumblers then the old tumblers are probably worn and will need to be replaced.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jan 20, 2007 at 10:27 AM.
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DUHHH Moment
Every have one of them?
I went out Saturday to try and fix my key situation. I took the silver wings of the ignition switch and turned them to the 11 o'clock position to match the key...and the key went in. DUHHH!!!!!
Oh well....now it works.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
I went out Saturday to try and fix my key situation. I took the silver wings of the ignition switch and turned them to the 11 o'clock position to match the key...and the key went in. DUHHH!!!!!
Oh well....now it works.Thanks for all of the suggestions.
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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For future reference:
This is a 10 tumbler system and the door uses #1-6, while the ignition uses #5-10. This means the door and ignition overlap on #5 & 6 so you can match the doors to the new ignition cylinder. There are five different tumbler configurations on a new ignition cylinder, so when you buy a replacement, you have to ask for one that has the depth on #5 of the original key -- which is counting from the bow (which means you have to know the five different depths). The new ignition key will not have cuts #1,2,3,4,6 and you just transfer over just these cuts from the old key.
Further, this ignition is a sidebar, so don't bother taking it apart since it is a lot more difficult than if it didn't have one.
This is a 10 tumbler system and the door uses #1-6, while the ignition uses #5-10. This means the door and ignition overlap on #5 & 6 so you can match the doors to the new ignition cylinder. There are five different tumbler configurations on a new ignition cylinder, so when you buy a replacement, you have to ask for one that has the depth on #5 of the original key -- which is counting from the bow (which means you have to know the five different depths). The new ignition key will not have cuts #1,2,3,4,6 and you just transfer over just these cuts from the old key.
Further, this ignition is a sidebar, so don't bother taking it apart since it is a lot more difficult than if it didn't have one.
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I have been lining up the wings to the tumbler for a couple of years now.
and my back door can only open from the inside.
and I have to wiggle my sliding door a little to open it.
But it keeps on going
and my back door can only open from the inside. and I have to wiggle my sliding door a little to open it.
But it keeps on going
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Former ******
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
When we had ours done, we didn't have the pins transplaneted from the old cylinder because they cylinder had already been previously replaced, so the door and the key no longer took the same key. We had the locksmith match the tumbler to use the same key as the doors. Only cost us $70 and the new cylinder is far stronger than the OEM design.
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