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Washed my engine, now rough running...

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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:07 PM
  #16  
crp2000eb5.4's Avatar
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Well, its been 4 days of starting/warming up the engine morning and night. Still no improvement. I have made an appointment with the local Ford Dealer and will get a tune-up. Hopefully no need for any COP replacements. I will post the results of their findings in a day or so.

Thanks to all for your help. I used to tune up my old '67 Mustang with no problems, but to be honest, one look under the hood at the 5.4 and I lose interest. I will let the experts handle it.

Thx again...
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 04:01 PM
  #17  
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crp2000eb5.4

To answer your question re. how to read codes for COP failures, you need an OBD-2 scanner. Or, take it to Autozone or Advance, and they will read codes for free. Don't necessarily take their advice on interpretation, though. Post codes back here for some good experience and suggestions.

Specifically, COP failures may (emphasis may) show up as P030x misfire codes. However, other things can influence this code in addition to a COP failure, so you need to test the COP in question with an ohmmeter (both primary and secondary circuits), move the COP in question to see if the misfire code "follows" the COP, look carefully for a deteriorated boot between the COP in question and the plug, in case the secondary might be grounding out, etc. (New boots are $3; new COPs are $50).

The 5.4L is a bit of a challenge, but this forum is a great help. Stick with doing it yourself if you can.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 05:47 AM
  #18  
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After every wash of the engine put WD-40 on it and that's going to take care of the extra water
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #19  
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Well this sounds familiar, my buddy did the same thing washed his engine and lost a coil pack. I've had one go bad on my expedition not due to water though. My friend that washed his engine lost 3 so far but he has almost 200 thou on his truck. My other friend has changed two. 70 or 80 bucks and your back in the game. I must say that one small investment that has really worked out especially when it comes to seeing which pack is bad is getting a code reader. I don't know if other places have them cheaper but I got mine at harborfreight.com and I paid like 300 bucks for it, but that was a few years ago. Now they have one for like 130 bucks, it only does ODBII but thats all most people have. The one I have does ODBI and II and a bunch of other older vehicles. I swear it will be the best money you ever spend and wait to see how many people come to you when they find out you have a scanner.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #20  
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Try this

I recently had the same problem and it ended up being some water in the valley's around two plugs because the cover was not tight all the way on one of the valve covers. It was causing a very bad misfire on two cylinders. I changed the plugs and dried up the water and it is gone. Had me down for a week, and thanks to everyone in this forum that helped me I figured it out and got it up and running again. You can also do a diagnostic for codes by using your button to clear your trip milage if its a 99 and up. Simply hold down the milage reset button and turn the switch on and continue to hold down the button. It will flash through some things and you can use the button to scroll to the DTC codes. Good luck with everything and keep us posted on how it turns out.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 07:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Charles1
I recently had the same problem and it ended up being some water in the valley's around two plugs because the cover was not tight all the way on one of the valve covers. It was causing a very bad misfire on two cylinders. I changed the plugs and dried up the water and it is gone. Had me down for a week, and thanks to everyone in this forum that helped me I figured it out and got it up and running again. You can also do a diagnostic for codes by using your button to clear your trip milage if its a 99 and up. Simply hold down the milage reset button and turn the switch on and continue to hold down the button. It will flash through some things and you can use the button to scroll to the DTC codes. Good luck with everything and keep us posted on how it turns out.

THE HEC dealer test mode will NOT display any DTCs that would be of use in diagnosing a misfire. Don't know where you got that idea, but it is mistaken. The HEC only has access to data that is already in use by the cluster's microprocessor.

Steve
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 12:01 PM
  #22  
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OK, the verdict is in... After several days, the engine ran no better so I took it into the dealership. They estimated $375 for a tune up, and during the diagnostic found the #3 COP was bad - another $190 (part & labor). I had a 10% off coupon so the whole thing cost me about $560 with taxes included.

Runs great now. Thx again for everyone's reply on this thread. I will probably never was the engine again. Mr Clean is retired

I suspect I can get another 50k miles out of this 5.4 before major repairs occur?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #23  
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Well I wish I would have read this post before I washed my engine. After three days of misfiring, engine light came on. Took it to autozone and they said I have a misfire on #3 cylinder. Purchased a cop and will see what happens.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #24  
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Just wipe your engine down with a rag!!! Don't spray cleaner and water all over the place. What are we driving... show trucks???
 
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 03:35 PM
  #25  
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Especially do not use power washer or car wash high pressure. You'll be lucky to leave the car wash. Dealer I bought Expy from power washes engines. before purchase a scanned and figured it was COP, so I bought it anyway. Put in new COP and never had problem for a few years now.

FYI-The SES light will blink after a cop quits firing, mine did.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by explorerford1999
Well I wish I would have read this post before I washed my engine. After three days of misfiring, engine light came on. Took it to autozone and they said I have a misfire on #3 cylinder. Purchased a cop and will see what happens.
I replaced the #3 cop along with all new plugs which only had 26,000 miles on them. When I pulled the plugs I was surprised how worn they were, so I replaced them since I was in there. Took it for a test drive and seemed to cure the problem until today. Now the truck is missing again with no engine light. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 07:13 AM
  #27  
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It is possible that one or more of COPs were not pushed down all the way before bolting back down. I did this and took them all off again and found I wasn't seated all the way with one even though they bolt down. I ended up replacing a couple other boots at that same time.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 07:22 AM
  #28  
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I clean my engines with Simple Green and old rags.
Usually at oil changes.

I can even get cleaner on my distributor and not worry about it.

Water(from a hose) and new Ford engines don't mix.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 07:48 AM
  #29  
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I purchased a code reader and made the job pretty simple. Misfire on #8 cylinder. Checked the plug and found a hairline crack in the spark plug. Replaced and runs like a champ.
 
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