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Just about finished with my 55 and will be doing the wood bed floor soon any advice on what to put on the red oak I plan to use.Star varnish, poly coats, or something different. Would like to hear what some others have done and their ideas.
Hey crowebar
I used a paint on the edges and underside called Hammerite. I got it at Home Depot here in Calif. It was developed in England in the 60s I think, but that's not important. It is really meant to kill rust and provide a slick, hard surface, but works well on wood too. Should last longer than me...
On the top I used Spar Varnish with a UV inhibitor. Sitting out in the sunlight will destroy most finishes. The UV inhibitor is supposed to prevent that. It's been a couple of years now and it still looks great.
Hope this helps!
I have seen beds finished with Dupont Chromabase clear coat. The finish last in all weather conditions and is as stong as your paint job on your truck. The clear coat will go over bare wood and seal it from water and keep it from molding. Spray all sides,edges and ends. Other brands of clear coat will also work, Chromabase is a good high build product for panel repairs. It is like plastic coating the wood and lets wood color show threw. Hope this helps!!
I used a spar varnish on my oak bed and after a year outside in extremes of Montana weather, I have some checks/splits in the finish that will need to be touched up.
I like the idea of clearcoating - that is one tough finish! Might try that next.
The advice to coat all four sides/edges and ends is right on target.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Nov-02 AT 02:22 PM (EST)]Dan Carpenter of course sells his own products but his recommendations will cross most brand names... he does his finish sanding... tacks it all off then starts with his finish buildup.. he begins with a coat cut 50/50 the reduces the cutting agent until the fourth coat is 100% polyurethane. the idea being that the thinned coats soak into the grain .. he also recommends rounding the sharp edges of the boards to give a thicker coat.. the sharp edges doesn't hold the material like a radiused edge will..
I have a friend with a '54 who used the same poly finish that bowling alleys use on their wood.. it looks 6" deep and has held up very well.. and you gotta know it will stand punishment... it's expensive but hey, how many times you gonna do it ???
I like the idea of the clear coat... it has good resistance to weather and wear.. uv protected already... and can be built up much like dan recommends... I think that might be my route... IF I EVER GET TO THAT POINT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks guys for all the great suggestions and answering. Will be doing a little testing on some scrap pieces and will let you know how it comes out. But wanted to say thanks to all for their help and answers. Crowebar