won't start
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won't start
My 2001 power stroke will not start. I have put 2 new batterys in it. I had a problem a week back on a cold morning. Now all it will do is make a clicking noise. It will not turn. I have an apt. at the shop too get a new set of glow plugs. But I really need the truck to start now. Any body have any ideas.
Thanks
Pat
Thanks
Pat
Gone, but not forgotten
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From: Charlotte-Fairbanks-Bflo
New batteries and clicking noise? Solenoid, cruddy battery terminals, starter going south. I'm out of ideas, but those are the places I would look first. Try the heavy duty screwdriver jump of the solenoid and go from there.
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I have cleaned all the termals and made sure everything is tight. I also tried to jump it off the slinido. It still just makes a clicking noise. The truck does have an auto matic starter, I am not sure if that may be the cruplit. I have noticed that the truck did make a snaping like sound when I started it the last few days. Thanks In advance.
Pat
Pat
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Originally Posted by Markadeck
I read here a few months ago about a starter coming loose and doing a lot of damange. Snapping sound, think I might get under the truck and take a looksee.
Pat
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From: 21791
Clicking noise- By clicking noise do you mean the sound of a relay clicking on and off? Or, is this sound like rapid-fire sound that the starter makes when the batteries are near-dead?
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
Clicking noise- By clicking noise do you mean the sound of a relay clicking on and off? Or, is this sound like rapid-fire sound that the starter makes when the batteries are near-dead?
Thanks for the help
Pat
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From: 21791
I do not know if you are educated with the internals of a starter motor, but i believe you have insufficient battery voltage coming into the starter solenoid, and that is causing the contact ring to close when a high voltage spike occurs, and then the contact ring snaps back when the voltage drops. It repeats this cycle and causes the ring to pit due to heat, or possibly just break. In the starter solenoid, there is a pull-in winding, and a hold-in winding. The pull-in winding is triggered by a 12v input from the ignition, and it pulls the contact ring up against two terminals to connect them. One terminal is direct from the battery. Once the pull-in winding has pulled the contact ring up against the terminals, the Hold-in winding holds it there. Now you have a closed connection, which sends battery power to the starter motor.
At school we have a tool called an AVR tester, that load tests the batteries using a carbon pile. Go to an auto parts store, and ask to have your batteries load tested. If they turn out OK, then you have a bad positive main wire or dirty connections coming from the batteries to the inlet of the starter, on the side. Check all of your connections.
At school we have a tool called an AVR tester, that load tests the batteries using a carbon pile. Go to an auto parts store, and ask to have your batteries load tested. If they turn out OK, then you have a bad positive main wire or dirty connections coming from the batteries to the inlet of the starter, on the side. Check all of your connections.
Last edited by PowerstrokeJunkie; Oct 27, 2006 at 08:17 PM.
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
I do not know if you are educated with the internals of a starter motor, but i believe you have insufficient battery voltage coming into the starter solenoid, and that is causing the contact ring to close when a high voltage spike occurs, and then the contact ring snaps back when the voltage drops. It repeats this cycle and causes the ring to pit due to heat, or possibly just break. In the starter solenoid, there is a pull-in winding, and a hold-in winding. The pull-in winding pulls the contact ring up against two terminals, one is direct from the battery. Once the pull-in winding has pulled the contact ring up against the terminals, the Hold-in winding holds it there. Now you have a closed connection, which sends battery power to the starter motor.
At school we have a tool called an AVR tester, that load tests the batteries. Go to an auto parts store, and ask to have your batteries load tested. If they turn out OK, then you have a bad positive main wire or dirty connections coming from the batteries to the inlet of the starter, on the side. Check all of your connections.
At school we have a tool called an AVR tester, that load tests the batteries. Go to an auto parts store, and ask to have your batteries load tested. If they turn out OK, then you have a bad positive main wire or dirty connections coming from the batteries to the inlet of the starter, on the side. Check all of your connections.
Thanks
Pat
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From: 21791
Originally Posted by sooline1
Will do Thanks. I am not sure if the fact that both batterys are band new will have any effect on this method???Would it make sence to pull the starter and have it looked at???? I am not the most tech guy you have ever met so please bare with me. I just don't want to get raped when I take the truck to the shop.
Thanks
Pat
Thanks
Pat