John Check this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...01&postcount=7 It will let you know what to look at to tell if it is closing

 

Thanks Alan, I'll check it tomorrow morning. Tell me if I'm right here. If I'm looking at that lever and I have someone turn the key to the on position I should see the valve open correct?

Will a bad sensor cause the SES light to come on? I really need to buy myself a code scanner. I have a laptop so maybe the Autoengenuity might be in order.

My truck acted this way when I first bought it back in February. Back then I changed all of the filters, ran some massive amounts of DK through it and made one good road trip and all was well. Maybe all was well because it started to warm up...... who knows!

Tomorrow morning I'll let it warm up a little more before driving it as well. See if that has an effect on it.

Thanks for the help!

 

Normally the valve should be open but if it is cold enuff the PCM will close the valve to speed warmup.

Exerpt from manual (Note last Paragraph) :
The turbine and compressor wheels are mounted on opposite ends of a common shaft. The wheels are enclosed by two housings, and the common shaft is enclosed by the center housing.

High-velocity engine exhaust gases drive the turbine wheel, which turns the common shaft turning the compressor wheel at speeds up to 130,000 revolutions per minute. Air entering the compressor side of the turbocharger is compressed and delivered to the combustion chambers. This compressed air causes more engine power output, better fuel efficiency and better engine performance at higher altitudes.

The turbocharger is supplied with pressurized oil from the engine's main oil gallery through a passage in the turbocharger pedestal. Oil then drains back through another passage in the turbocharger pedestal into the oil pan. This eliminates the need for external lubrication supply and return lines.

Split ring seals are installed at each end of the common shaft between the shaft bearing and wheel assembly to prevent lubricating oil from entering the turbine or compressor area.

The pressurized oil entering the turbocharger also serves to actuate the exhaust back pressure warm-up system. This system consists of an actuator and a butterfly valve. This system operates only during the cold weather warm-up cycle

 

Alan,

I checked the position of the actuator this morning before I even cranked it up. It never moved once the truck was cranked. Granted it warmed up a little over night. But, I'm almost positive I've never heard the EBPV open.

This morning I let it warm up for about 10 minutes. That's about 9 minutes longer than I normally do. Once I left the neighborhood I rolled on it and it took off like it should. It had some power.

Whatever it is is temp related. I'm really thinking that it might be the fan clutch. I noticed the fan engaging over the summer when stopped in traffic, then disengaging once moving. BUT, I never hear the fan engaging when the truck is first fired up. maybe the clutch is staying locked up just enough to cause my lack of power?

Anyhow, I'm going to keep an eye on it. Once it gets cold I'll try plugging in to see if it's oil temp related, I'll also keep an eye on the EBPV to see if it ever opens or not.

This is perplexing...... Once it gets warmed up it's fine, go figure.....


Thanks again for all of the help!

 

Clutch test:
Fan Clutch Test

Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement

Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.

Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
Operate the strobe light at 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
The fan blade speed must not be greater than 1,900 rpm on 5.4L engines and 2,000 rpm on 6.8L and 7.3L engines.
Turn the engine off.
If the fan blade speed was greater than 1,900 rpm (on 5.4L) (on diesel engines and 6.8L, 2,000 rpm), install a new fan clutch (8A616).
Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement

Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement.
NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.

Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
Adjust the strobe to 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.

Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
If the fan blade speed is less than 3,600 rpm on 5.4L engines and 3,500 rpm on 6.8L engines, 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.

 

Alan, you are the man! I'll look into that next weekend. I'll be out of town this weekend.

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!