Okay, I'll fill you in on some relevant information before I describe the problem. I have not yet installed the transfer case shifter boot, so I can pretty much see straight to the ground from the cab. That will be important here in a second. When the window is down, it draws wind, sometimes with exhaust up into the cab. I just recently did an automatic to manual transmission swap within the last 1,000 miles or so. I took a road trip from Boonville, Indiana to Whittaker Guns outside Owensboro and back recently, and I didn't detect any strange smells during the entire trip, and the EBPV was open for that entire trip.

Alright, I was driving home, and on one of the roads that I take to get to my house, a sheriff's squad car was parked in the road. I rolled down my window, and he approached my truck and told me to pick a different route because they had somebody fleeing from them and they were running dogs out there. I said, "No problem," and flipped a turnaround in a driveway. Well, when I took off, I noticed this horrible burning smell. It smelled like rubber burning or metal burning or something like that. It did not smell like normal diesel exhaust or like burning oil or raw diesel or anything like that. I seemed to notice it much more when the EBPV was shut, and seemed to barely notice it when the EBPV was wide open. It also seemed like the EBPV was starting to cause a strange noise when shut. All gauges were reading normally.

When I got home, I got out, leaving it idling. Just sitting there at idle, I couldn't detect any abnormal smells. I popped the hood and got in there in the engine compartment and couldn't detect any smells there. I also observed the clutch area while idling, and I couldn't detect any smoke or strange smells from that area. The exhaust at idle smelled like typical diesel exhaust.

I guess my question is, how should I begin troubleshooting this? Is it safe to drive it around to try to get it to start stinking and then hop out and try to find it real quick? I believe I'll go ahead and unplug the EBPV just in case that's somehow causing it. Is that even possible for the EBPV to cause that sort of smell? I'm sort of frightened by this, and I'm hoping that this doesn't become a nightmare. I'll look over the brakes, because I have a GMC Sierra 1500 that had a brake hose start leaking, and when the fluid got on the rotor and such, the smell of it cooking off was kind of similar.

 

Take a look at the end of the EBPV where the rod attaches and see it it's leaking oil onto the turbo or downpipe and then burning off.

 

Hmm. After thinking about it, I guess it's possible that the smell is burnt oil. Would oil burnt in the engine smell different than oil burnt downstream of the exhaust manifold?

 

Has the ccv been modded? Is it exilting under the truck / coming thru the shifter opening? The gases that come out of that really smell foul sometimes

 

What CCV? Sorry im not much help to this. Check plugs on trany. Gear oil smells bad burnt.

 

I also believe it could be trans fluid smelling. There are two shifter boots that should be in place. The inner boot is a small bellows that seals the shifter handle to the mount plate on top of the trans. Mine has a rip in it that opens up in second and fourth gear. When I am pulling and working the truck hard I can smell that Mercron V trans oil and is does smell bad. If you have that boot in place it is probably something else but if you don't have it or it is ripped this could be your smell. Stuff smells bad out of the container let alone when it is hot.

 

I'll check the boot. It was there and intact when I last put fluid in, but if it has ripped recently, that would explain why it smells terrible now and didn't smell terrible during my recent road trip. I don't think the plugs are bad... When I looked under the truck while it was idling, I didn't notice any dripping fluids or anything.

 

Ccv=crank case ventilator/the little dog house on drivers side valve cover. Like many have done, i unhooked mine and vented to atmosphere .... Hooked a rubber hose to it and ran down under truck to rear of cab. I put it back to stock.... Couldn't stand the smell

 

My CCV is still stock, by the way.

 

If it smelled like burnt rubber, the shift boot would be the first thing to check. After that, what wiring did you have to mess with for the swap that might be rubbing against something hot now?

That thing must be loud driving it around like that. I had a loose boot that wasn't tightened down after a clutch replacement and I couldn't believe how much louder it was just from starting it up at idle.

 

I believe I found the problem. I ducked under my truck, because I was planning on driving it to my buddy's farm where I was going to help out, and I was going to check everything over before unplugging the EBPV and seeing if that made the smell go away. Anyway, I inspected the rear drive shaft carrier, and it failed. I had to stretch the bushing about 1/2 to 1 inch in order to make it fit, and I was hoping that was going to be good enough. I had noticed it beginning to tear a little, but when I made it all the way to Whittaker's and back, I thought it was going to be good enough to work for a while. When I checked it, it looked like the rubber had ripped all the way through, and the metal part of the shaft was sitting on the rubber part of the carrier that doesn't move. The rubber was awful charred. I believe that was the problem. That explains why it only happens while driving and not while idling.

I guess I'll have to measure out where the carrier is in relation to the flange mount for the drive shaft and take it to my local drive line shop and see what they can do for me. Does anybody have any idea how much this will run me?

 

Carrier bearings are a pita if every thing isnt alined right. I kept having issues with mine for a while. I have been wanting to go to that gun store, i herd it is a big place. Have you been to daves gun store in holland?

 

Yeah. Dave's is great. I like that shop. Whittaker's is gigantic, though. If you haven't been there, you need to pay them a visit. I've done quite a bit of business with Whittaker's over the years, and even though they're out of state, they're my go-to gun shop. I pretty much have decided on what I want to buy before I go down there, though. I then make a trip out of going down there to either pick it up, or set up the transfer if it's a handgun.

 

Ya that the best part bout being out of state. We can walk out the same day with a long rifle but folks from ky have to wait.

 

I guess I'll have to measure out where the carrier is in relation to the flange mount for the drive shaft and take it to my local drive line shop and see what they can do for me. Does anybody have any idea how much this will run me?[/quote]

If you know of a good machine shop, have a 1 1/8" thick spacer made to go between the flange on the t-case and the yoke on the drive shaft. Just make sure they machine the recessed fit in the center. I'm having a friend that owns a machine shop look at making me a couple of em. TyBragg wants to put his 4407 t-case back in his truck and the '97 ext. cab I just bought might have the 4407 in it. If it does I'll prabably use it on my 350 cc and I'll need a spacer too.

My thoughts behind the spacer is if you ever have to replace the driveshaft, a stock one will fit, you won't have to have another one made.