Oh Boy

Okay i will make this short. Discussing "A" oil will quickly get a thread locked and the poster put on leave. Basically "A" is a marketing scam and they only have 1 or 2 oils (at last check) that are even API certified.

First off oil doesn't wearout, either dino or syn, the additive package breaks down do to contamiments from use and the oil must then be changed.
If in any engine you are going to run extended OCI you MUST do UOA to determine when the oil is no longer doing its job so that it can be changed on time.

The only advantages of syn oil, and i am talking about ones with the proper API rating for your vehicle, is that they perform better in extreme temperatures. That is they flow better when really cold and have a little higher flash point (about 7-8%) so they can see a little higher temperature.

"A" oil does not last any longer (and sometimes less) than any of the other oils availble, either dino or syn, that are API certified.
"A" oil filters are do not meet factory specs for this engine, they are an "as fit" item, and can lead to serious problems in these motors. Stick to the filters meeting factory spec they are available from Motorcraft or International.

You can go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" website and read up on this. Look in the forums and many people have posted their UOA's for different brands of oil running in the 6.0. The 6.0 is extremely hard on oil in the shearing department and extended UOA's do not work in these motors.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Also do a search around here on oil, lots of good threads and posts. Additionally there is a seperate oil forum on FTE down the page a little.

"A" is a marketing scam , to remove excess money from your pocket.

Stick with CI-4+/CJ-4 rated oils, in the correct viscosity for your use. Use Motorcraft or International filters, and change the oil at the required interval as outlined in your manual.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks, I figured it was just too good to be true.

 

i run rotella 15-40 year round in my 2006 ps, when i was in the dealer for warranty work the service supervisor (which is a good friend of mine) asked me what oil i am running thru this one , i told him rotella he said that was an excellent choice for this engine because it meets and exceeds all lube reqirements, i change every 5000-6000 miles and have 30000 on it now, i plan on this one lasting me a while.

 

When I originally started this thread I was talking about Amsoil because I have used it in my motorcycle and really I guess I didn't research it enough. With the posts from Beachbumcook and Tvsjr and others, it has made me dig deeper. What I read from an Amsoil site only said twice the manufactures recommended change recommendations. FMC does say to use API Certified and Amsoil is not, it just meets those standards they say. That itself makes me wonder, if Amsoil meets the API Cert. standards then why don't they get the Cert. and end this problem, it's not like they are selling their product at a lower price. Also I was a little worried about giving up my '97 7.3 for the 6.0 to start with and it will take a little bit of time to build my trust in this truck so the last thing I want to do is lose my warranty over a brand of oil. Amsoil may or may not be a great oil, I am no expert but so are others, and I personally don't think Amsoil could be sooooo much better as to make it worth the risk. Since my original posting I have done a lot more reading and thanks to the fine people here I have gotten a lot more information to make my choice from. I was hoping to extend oil changes and gain protection at the same time but from what I have read, the extended oil change part with this engine probably isn't going to be one of the benifits. The most important part does seem to be a possibility (added protection).

I have another question though. Can I do my own oil changes without hurting my warranty? If so how do you provide to FMC that they were done?

Thanks Again To All

 

Sure you can. Do a couple of things. Write down the mileage, date, oil & weight used in the owners manual log or a seperate book to keep with the truck. Also for added protection if someone would get really testy, Save the receipts that show oil & filter purchases, and put the mileage on these also.

Hope this helps

 

If you are just damned-determined to use something that isn't exactly designated for use in a 6.0, try Motorcraft's 5w-50 Full Synthetic designed for the Ford GT engine. It's API SL/CF certified, so it won't have the soot carrying capability of the newest CI-4 or CJ-4 stuff, but it will do better on cold starts than 15w-40 and hold its viscosity better than 5w-30. I've been running it for the past little while and it has seemed to help out some lazy injector spools when its cold....I don't have an EGR or crankcase system to really load up with soot so the carrying capacity of the oil isn't a big issue for me, but if it is to be used in an engine with the EGR still functional it would need to be changed on a very religious basis. I'm going to send off a sample to Blackstone after 2000 miles to see how its holding up- it may be that it does just as well as any other oil I've run, but I wouldn't be surprised to see the viscosity up due to being loaded up with soot.

Not saying its totally ideal for the average 6.0, but for use on a EGR-disabled and highly tuned/modified vehicle it has done me very well thus far. Not only will it resist high temp breakdown by its design but it will also preserve oil pump life at high RPM by preventing pump cavitation because it flows so much easier.

I would certainly look to this before Amsoil, if you are looking for something exotic and not certified for use in the 6.0...at least it has SOME form of API certification and is Motorcraft branded.

 

I am surprised that you haven't developed MattSoil yet....

 

PSD 60L Fx4 - evidentally you have not read anything but my first post. I am NOT looking for something that doesn't belong in my truck. I am probably going to go with Mobil 1 just trying to find the 5w40 right now. Advance Auto and Wal-mart only have 15w40. Even if the warranty wasn't a issue. I still want to put what is BEST in my truck. I kept my '97 for nine years and it was almost like losing my best friend when I traded for the '06 I have now, but I hope to keep this truck even longer.

 

Wizz-

Why doesn't Amsoil get API certified? Two reasons. One, it's very expensive. Two, if they try and fail, it becomes public knowledge.

You can do your own oil changes without harming the warranty. Personally, I keep a log of every piece of maintenance work ever done to my truck, and the oil changes go in there (though I don't do them myself). Generally, if you're organized and have a log like that, Ford won't jack with you. Also, the MyFord website (available from www.fordvehicles.com) lets you add maintenance events that you perform to their log, which can be seen by dealers. You might start a log there.

You're making a good choice to go with the Mobil 1. Many of us are very pleased with it, despite the gigantic pain in the *** it can be to find.

 

I would re-type word for word in my own post.... but why?

100% correct and great advice to do the "my-ford" record keeping (even though I have not updated mine for 6 months!!!).

Good luck and Mobil 1 is a great oil!!!

 

I switched to Mobil at 10,000 miles on my '04...truck ran great...never any cold start or other oil related issues.

I think enough has been said about Amsoil....thanks.