I know this subject has been gone over and over but I still have a question or too. I have heard everything from use 10w30 to 15w40. I live in South Carolina, we get some cold weather as low as 15-20 degrees but not for long periods. I bought an '06 last March and the oil has been changed by the dealer ever since, I am at about 20k miles now and want to switch to Amsoil 15w40 and Amsoil filter. I always used 15w40 in my '97 7.3L (Rottella Dino) and it worked fine but am unsure of this 6.0L it seems to be a much different machine. I hope to be driving this truck for a long time (hopefully through retirement).

Thanks For Any Advise,

 

Uh-oh... here comes the oil war.

Piece of advice? Why use Amsoil? They use shady marketing tactics to sell their product to unsuspecting customers. For instance, is your chosen oil API certified, or does it "meet API requirements"? Think about the differences here... Ford requires the oil to be Certified, not meeting the requirements. Amsoil says the oil meets requirements but doesn't spend the money to do the cert... thus, bye bye warranty.

Many people have exceptionally good luck with Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W40 (now called Turbo Diesel Truck, also known as Delvac 1 in commercial circles) which is a Group 4 synthetic. You won't find any better out there. Also, many run Rotella T Synthetic 5W40, which is a Group 3 oil and is of excellent quality.

Now, I'm going to run before the Amsoil people come bite my head off.

 

Stay away from Amsoil and save your money while your at it!!!

Mobil, Chevron and Rotella all make a great dino or synthetic oil (based upon how your drive). Look for the API certification of CI4+ or the newer CJ4 spec. Whether dino or synthetic... if it has the API spec... it meets all of Ford's specs.

Use a Racor made (Motorcraft, Fram or from Int'l Dealer) and get OEM made and OEM spec'd oil filtration. Amsoil's oil filter is a "will fit" filter and does not carry Racor's licence (OEM manufacture to Ford and Int'l for this filter). They claim better filtration, but at what expense. No one in over 4 years of being out (6.0L came out in fall 2002) has shown, claimed or even posted that a Motorcraft oil filter gave them bad oil analysis results. I buy mine at Walmart or Advance Auto Parts for $19.99/ea.

Others have reported many times os slow oil presure building up after start due to a 'will fit" filter not fitting properly in the filter housing.

You mention concern for taking care of your 6.0L versus the 7.3L you had... but immediately want to use an unproven oil filter and non-API certified oil. Again... Rotella, Chevron, Mobil... and others are all name brands and carry the CI4+ or CJ4 API lable!!!!!

Use the proper oil and filter and rest easy... forget the Amsoil hype and stick with proven lubricants and filters!!!!

Amsoil reps need not reply as you have no facts to back up your agrument... don't even get me started on re-posting all the weblinks and facts I have posted many other times to prove my side of this great debate (mobil, chevron, Rotella, Racor and a few others (due a search of my old threads)... only if an Amsoil rep can prove to me that the Amsoil filter meets OEM specs and is a licenced supplier of filters from Racor and their oil is API certified... without being over-priced... I am all ears... otherwise no need guys (and I do type this with respect and courtesy as required by FTE.

 

I have been using Motorcraft 15W-40 year round. I live in NJ but spend at least half the winter in ME where it has been as low as -20 degrees. I plug in the block heater when it gets below 10 above. I have never had problems starting the truck and the oil pressure comes up just as fast on the dash gauge. That said, I wonder if I should use a thinner oil. Anyone have any advice about my choice of oil weight in the winter. If I would go to the dealer, would Ford put in 15W-40? Does Ford have a 5W- XX? Thanks for any adivce or input.

 

Lat I checked (or know), Ford does not make a Motorcraft 5W-XX oil (at least here in the US). It is either 15W-40 or 10W-30 (both diesel rated). I ran Motorcraft 15W-40 for the first 50,000 miles and I live in Kansas City where it gets cold in the winter.. and I had no problems... but she did crank slower on dino 15W-40. I switched to 5W-40 for easier cold weather starts and for less wear (which 70% they say is when the motor and/or oil is cold). I have chosen to use 5W-40 year round and all is well and the extra high-end heat protection for turbo bearing/coking protection was the second reason. I guess the third reason is that I picked up 1mpg upon switching to synthetic.

I change myself with Motorcraft oil filters and Rotella-Syn 5W-40 (CI4+) synthetic and what I pay to do it myself I used to pay the dealer to do it with conventional 15W-40 Motorcraft oil... so it was a wash for me to step-up and use synth. and start to do it myself.

 

Thanks for the advise, Beachbumcook - If I was sure about what was best to use I wouldn't have asked for advise from the people here. I know these issues get pretty heated but I have been trying to read as much as I can find and the seems to be alot of different opinions. I DID NOT catch that difference about the Certified API - Thank You ! I am one that just wants the best in somethings and have had a hard time finding it or at least a clear winner. I used the Rotella Dino in the '97 and it did great. I was interested in the Amsoil because I have used it in my motorcycle for years and it has done great in it. I also know there is a BIG difference in a diesel and a motorcycle. So I posted this thread and got some GOOD ADVISE Thanks to everyone.

TVSJR, Thank You Also. I am not sure what the difference between a Group 4 and a Group 3 is but it sounds like you do so I would appreciate it if you could tell me what the difference is.

 

Wizz-

Group 3/4 refers to the quality of the oil. A Group 3 HDEO oil is "synthetic" by property, but it's actually a very highly refined dino oil. Years ago, Castrol released a "full synthetic" that used Group 3 base stock. Mobil sued them and lost - the courts ruled that "synthetic" had to do with the performance properties of the oil, not with the construction of the oil itself. Since Group 3 oils provided performance almost as good as true Group 4 PAO synthetics, they could legally be called "synthetic".

A Group 4 oil is a pure synthetic. Rather than simply refining dino juice very heavily, the oil is actually created at the factory at the molecular level. This means you get a oil that's higher purity and behaves better under extreme circumstances... such as cold starts, where you really need protection.

Mobil Delvac 1/Turbo Diesel Truck is pretty much the only API-certified Group 4 synthetic out there... other companies (like Shell) went to Group 3 base stocks in the wake of the Castrol lawsuit to save money. It's up to you to decide if the extra quality is worth it... personally, I know that many high-performance vehicles come from the factory with Mobil 1, and they specify to continue using it:
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...rs_Choice.aspx

That's quite a few very high-dollar vehicles with expensive, high-performance motors in that list. I doubt the manufacturers are dumping an oil that costs twice as much in just because they feel like it.

Personally, for your oil change needs, I would recommend that you go with Mobil Delvac 1 5W40, and stick with Motorcraft oil filters.

I'd also recommend you stick with Motorcraft/Racor filters elsewhere (like fuel filters... which you are changing every 15K, right?) to ensure engine longevity.

 

TVSJR, Thanks Just what I was looking for. I think Mobil1 will be the way I go. Even in my motorcycle. Now to figure out what to do with this Amsoil (oh well)

 

ebay?

 

Unless you run in extream conditions you are wasteing your money on SYN oil.
As long as it meets the API spec you are good to go. SYN oil and dino oil both become contaminated at the same rate. If you are that worried about engine life just change your oil more often. With the cost of Syn oil you could change your oil at least 3 fold with Dino for the same cost or less. Just my opinion...............
JMC

 

It only takes one extremely cold day and a dry start on the injector oil for the syn to pay for itself, especially if more than one injector is hurt.

 

I use Rottela T 5/40 Syn in the winter and Chevron Delo 15/40 during the summer. My 05, 6.0 Deisel truck rattles a bit on the Rottela 5/40. I also noticed that 5/40 weight does NOT appear anywhere on the oil chart in the owners manual. The Ford owners manual clearly points to 15/40 as being oil to use in most all tempatures, with a small suggestion to use 10/30 in sub-zero Tempatures. Which begs the question, if we should be using 5/40 at all in these 6.0 Diesel Engines? Will our Warranty become void due to using 5/40 Oil?

 

No 5W-40 will not void your warranty. Here is a link to a recent thread on the subject. Pay close attention to post #40. It is a copy of the latest FMC TSB on the subject.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/53...r-6-0-a-3.html

Hope this helps

 

I thought that the syn oil was designed to last 15,000 plus miles amsoil claims 25,000 with their filter. So if it lasted 25,000 miles wouldn't it be cheaper to use amsoil? Then factor the benefits of syn and it is a no brainer, right?

 

Bottom line----Ford says to change oil at a certain mileage/usage to maintain warranty. One of the first steps we are told to do in diagnosing a problem is to check maintenance records. If a customer tells me he changes oil every 25000 miles, no sooner, I know what I'm going to recommend. If you have to buy a 11000 dollar motor, how much does your oil cost? It is a no brainer!