Need some shock recommendations...
I installed a set of Monroe Reflex's on a 1994 ford ranger. They work well but I think they are a tad stiff.
I am going to mainly use the F150 as a winter vehicle and to tow a 18' boat in the summer. It will be unloaded 99% of the time and it will probably never be used offroad.
I've read just about every post about shocks since 2004. I am considering the Sensatracs but most posts I've found about them said they are too soft. I was thinking about trying the Reflexes again. I've read a bunch of good posts about the Bilsteins but they are almost twice as much as the Reflexes. (69.95 vs 38.95) Also, some people said the bilsteins are too stiff when the truck is unloaded.
What do you guys recommend?
they ride like butter onroad - and they can dish it out offroad...not to mention - for the quality - theyre not even expensive.
drj
I guess I need to know if I am better off with a monotube performance shock or a traditional shock.
The truck is way too loose right now. I don't like the way it feels when I hit a bump in a turn. It feels very unstable. Which is why I'm replacing the shocks. I would like the ride to be more controlled but I don't want it too harsh.
After everything I've read I'm leaning towards spending the extra money on the Bilsteins. I need you guys to help me decide!
drj

Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
.The control is well worth any reduction in ride quality to me. Tires also make a big difference in how it will ride. The Michelens and Bilsteins go together very nicely for my tastes.
With a little weight in the bed is where they really start to shine. Hope they work out for you.
I've only driven with them for about 30 miles but I can already tell the difference. The truck handles much better. I no longer feel like I am going to lose control every time I hit a bump. The ride isn't harsh at all. In fact it is smoother than before. Maybe a tad firmer but much smoother and less bouncy. So far I am really impressed with the difference. Of course the old shocks were completely blown so it's not a fair comparison.
The old shock's front lower bushing was non existent. There was so much play that the screw itself is worn down in the middle were the bushing sits. In fact I am going to pick up a new screw next week just to make sure the play doesn't damage the new shocks.
I did run into a few problems with the install...
First of all my uncle stopped by and decided to remove the shocks from the boxes. I didn't realize until after I installed the fronts that the rear brass washers have a larger opening. So I had to remove one of the fronts to change out the washers. Not a big deal but annoying. Just make sure you don't mix up the parts and you won't run into this problem. Or just keep them in the box until you are ready to install each one at a time. If my uncle wouldn't have graced me with his presence I wouldn't have had a problem.
I was able to torque the front upper nuts to 15 ft lbs and all the lower mounts to 60 ft lbs which is what the directions said. The rear uppers are another story. According to the directions they should be torqued to 22 ft lbs. I couldn't get them even close to that because the whole shock rod would spin. In fact I couldn't even get the nut on past two turns without the rod spinning. I then removed the rubber boot, wrapped the rod with a thick piece of rubber, and held it with a pair of vice grips. With the vice grips I was able to tighten the nut far enough down to compress the bushings but not to 22 ft lbs. The rod spins, even with the vice grips, before I hit 22 ft lbs. Is there anything else that I can do to stop the rod from spinning without damaging the rod?
I'm pretty sure you can stick an allen wrench into the top end of the rod. It is a pain, not much room for it and you can't use a socket while doing it. Compress the bushings until they just barely stick out past the washers. You might be able to use a socket/torque wrench after you get them down a good bit. I never tried, wasn't worried about getting it that exact.
I want to say it was a 6mm allen, not positive though.
Last edited by tdister; Nov 4, 2006 at 11:08 PM.
The other thing I should note about the install is the washers. According to the directions, which suck by the way, the front washers "cup" the bushing. In other words they curve around the bushings. The rear is just the opposite. They curve away from the bushings. Why is that?




