I got all 4 for $248.00. Most places have them for about $70.00 each.

tdister, you were right. There is a 6mm allen key hole on top. I tried to tighten the nut while holding it with an allen wrench but I couldn't get it to tighten anymore. I tried the vice grips again but still I can't get it any tighter. The top bushing is barely squished but over an inch of the screw is past the nut. I have to assume that is as tight as I am going to get it. I guess I am concerned about it because the front bushings are squished a lot more!

I could take some pictures if you guys think it might help. Of course I don't know how to post them so somebody would have to help me with that.

 

Hmm...well, either the 2wd's are different, or I installed mine wrong. All of mine are cuving around the bushing. Oh well, they work fantastic just how they are. Can't imagine it making too much difference either way.

I just weant to look at mine and the bushing is actually about flush with the washer, not sticking past. I wouldn't worry too much. Jut check them once a week or so for a while. Good to hear you like them otherwise. Thanks for the update, maybe let us know what you think once you get some miles on them?

Feel free to PM me if you want help posting pics.

 

There was a picture on one page of the rear shock directions that stated for the 97 Ford F-150 2wd that the washers curve outwards. I assumed that it was the same for 4wds as well. Like I said earlier the directions really suck! I doubt it matters much either way but I must say I don't understand why they would want them to curve outwards. I did it that way because the directions said to but I'm not sure it's right.

 

Im sorry that this is off topic, but is that an aftermarked front bumper on your truck? I really need a different bumper on my truck. The stock chrome one makes it look way too low to the ground, plus it looks huge compared to the rest of the truck.

 

tdister, thanks for the help with photobucket.


Here are some pics. The first two are off the front. The second two are of both upper rears.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02124.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02115.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02122.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02119.jpg

What do you guys think after looking at the pics?

 

They both look more than tight enough to me.

In fact, from what I know of those types of bushings - based on other shock/end-link jobs I've done where I've followed the instructions - your fronts are too tight.

The bushings should not stick out that much from the washers - just a little, if not being even with the ends of the washers.

 

I thought the same thing. But according to those crappy directions the fronts should be torqued to 15ft lbs and that is what they are torqued to. Maybe I should back off the fronts until they look like the rears???

 

ft lbs. or inch-pounds? I haven't seen inch-pounds on a vehicle application yet, but that's not to say it couldn't happen.

I would just be worried about having a bushing split with that much squish.

If it says 15 ft-lbs., and you measured it, then go for it.

 

It did say ft lbs not inch lbs. I think it is squished too much. I am going to call Bilstein tomorrow to see what they have to say.

BTW, I have seen inch lbs on a vehicle before. My Nissan Z intake plenum got torqued to 60 inch lbs on the inner bolts and 100 inch lbs on the outer.

 

I agree with GammaDriver, the fronts look a little too tight. If you did it with a good torque wrench, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Mine are definately compressed/bulging more than the rears, but a little less compared to yours (not much less though). I just eyeballed mine, so don't take this as scientific evidence. I can see the rears wanting to bulge a little more (your's do bulge more than mine) because of the the the washers are pressing in the middle. Again, I have a 2wd, so...

From what I've noticed, Bilstein's bushings tend to be a little softer than others. This may be another reason for it. Don't worry about the durabilty though, mine are still looking/feeling brand new after ~60K miles. I've had to replace harder feeling bushings more than once.

You might have them set perfectly.

Considereing their job, probably all you have to worry about is a little more noise being transmitted through them if they are a bit tight. I may be wrong...so if anybody alse can chime in here, please do.

As with anything, keep an eye on them for a while. You probably have more to worry about with the bottom bolts than anything. I speak from experience...

 

It hits me that the front shocks' travel isn't purely linear, thus the shocks need to pivot at their respective top bushings.

Bushings that are too tight - both squishing outward and inward - won't allow the shocks' rods to pivot easily and this, in time, may place undue force upon the inner-areas of the bushings, causing them to crack, split or wear.

If, however, the Bilstein bushings are softer than most out there, they may be able to flex enough (when really squished (should probably be using the word 'torqued,' but squished is so much more fun)) to not cause a problem.

Are the Bilstein bushings rubber or polyurethane? I've never used a poly bushing that was more flexible, but I suppose they could make them more so if they wanted to. Sort of defeats the purpose IMHO, but...

 

I can't say 100% sure that they're rubber, I'm fairly certain that they are though. They don't squeek...

They're soft enough that, even compressed, I can squish them in a little with my finger (the portion that's bulging out, not so "torqued' there, but still). They will also "pill-up", like a racing slick, if i rub my finger on them fairly hard.

I could also swear the cabin got just a little quieter after I installed them...

 

Dang, that's interesting. For a high-performance shock to have rubber bushings, these days, is rare.

And I'll tell ya, while I've heard great things about Bilstein, their web=page is the most useless piece of garbage on the web. Not only does it not show the correct shock in the pictures (check for my 1999), it doesn't sayanything about the shocks listed.

http://www.bilstein.com/mistore/ymm_...model_id2=1091

not sure if that link will work, but it really doesn't matter if it did... just as useless either way, lol.

 

Yes, it is pretty worthless. It is a little odd for them to use rubber but, they work just fine, and I'm sure they have their reasons.

FWIW the bottoms, front and rear, are harder. They won't noticeably pill-up. Makes sense since they take more load per sq.in.

 

Maybe it was to decrease sound in the cab, as you found. Makes sense - certainly they'd have less product send-backs (some people just can't get over the squeaks of polyurethane), and the rod can pivot around in a softer material all the more.

I agree - I bet they have their reasons.

Did anyone find they had to grind, or make more narrow, the bottoms to fit into the A-arm slots? I had to do that with my GR-2's, and apparently it's common for my year of truck (or the 4x4's?). What a pain in the ****.