390 won't spark
I replaced the module on fender, checked all connections and still no spark. The rotor is turning and the engine is not flooded. Truck ran for about 45 seconds then died. - Plenty of gas. New wires and cap, What should I test next.
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Some ignition module, have on 2nd harness, either two wires or three wires coming out of silver dura spark ignition module box.
At the ignition module amplified box.
You will fine two (2) harness going into ignition module, there is a four (4) wires (1st harness) and two (2) wires (2nd harness).
At module (1st) harness with four (4) wires, three wires will run to distributor (wire colors: orange, pulple, and black ) and one color green goes to the negative post on coil tower.
At module (2nd) harness is what provides the positive energy to the ignition module and has two (2) wires (wire colors: red and white). One wire gets the power during the Key Start position and the other wire get power when the Key On position.
The positive side "+" of coil housing tower gets power when the KEY is in the ON position and the wire color is red with green stripe. This is a separate three wiring harness. The three wire harness (3rd harness) has a red with green stripe wire which feed positive feed to the positive side of coil when the Key is ON position. The red with white stripe wire plugs into the temperature sending unit. The white with red stripe plugs into the oil sending unit.
The three wires coming out of the distributor housing and plugs into the wiring harness will have three wires with colors: black, orange with yellow stripe, and black with blue stipe.
These wire coming out of distributor housing run directly to the ignition module. The black wire runs to the black wire on ignition module. The orange with yellow stripe runs directly to the orange wire on ignition module. The black with blue stripe runs directly to the blue wire purple wire on ignition module.
The 2nd harness at the ignition module has two wires, red wire and white wire.
The red wire from ignition module should have power when the Key in ON position.
The white wire should have power when Key in Start position.
The 2nd harness (red and white wires) plugs into another harness having red and white wire harness. The colors for some odd reason switch, and the red wire from ignition module goes into the corresponding white wire from other harness, and the white wire from ignition module goes into the corresponding red wire from other harness. It is better to be working on actual two wires (2nd harness) to visualize what is being mentioned and to avoid any confussion.
Power supply to the 2nd harness (red and white wire at ignition module) is supplied from positive side of battery, which supplies the power to the ignition switch. When Key is On position, the power is feed directly from the ignition switch to the red wire coming out of the ignition module. When the Key is in the Start position, the positive power goes to electrical wire, red with blue stripe at the starter relay (aka: starter solenoid). This red and blue stripe wire triggers the starter relay and engages the starter motor, it also supplies positive feed to the brown wire which plugs adjacent to the red with blue stripe wire. This brown wire gets feed positive energy to the white wire coming out of the ignition module. Therefore, the one positive feed red and blue stripe wire, triggers the relay (thus engaging the starter motor) and positive feed the brown wire on starter relay prong which supplies positive feed to the white wire at the (2nd harness) ignition module.
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Next test. With key in the START position.
Locate the two wire harness coming out of the ignition module. One wire is red wire and one wire is white. Check for positive feed at the white wire with the KEY in START position. Is there positive feed with the Key in START position in the white wire at the ignition module?
Next test. With key in the ON position.
Locate the two wire harness at the ignition module. One wire is red wire and one wire is white. Check for positive feed at the red wire with the KEY in ON position. Is there positive feed with the KEY in ON position in the red wire at the ignition module?
New Test
You will need to print out the next two links and follow the test on second link using the socket # (pin #) of first link.
Here the wiring for the electronics of ignition module, pickup coil, coil, ignition and etc. Second link is the test of pin # (socket #). post if with results and questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=94669&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=94668&width=0
Will need a voltage meter and Ohms meter for some test.
Use a note paper to keep track of your test results. Write down what wires have voltage, and what ohms for each test. It will help you in tracking down the problem and when you post back.
Post back if you have any questions.
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To avoid and clear up any confusion . All references made to the red wire and white wire coming out of the ignition module (Dura Spark Igntion).
On the white wire on 2nd harness (red wire and white wire) coming out of the ignition module.
The WHITE wire coming out of the ignition module box should have positive power when the Key is ON position. This white wire at module is directly fed with positivie power from the red/ green stripe wire at the ignition switch.
On RED wire on the 2nd harness (red wire and white wire) coming out of the ignition module.
The RED wire coming out of the ignition module box gets its power from the red / blue stipe wire at the ignition switch when the Key is in START position. When the Key is START postion , this red / blue stripe wire at ignition switch provides power to the red / blue wire at the starter relay (metal prong) and then provides positive power to the brown wire located at the starter relay (aka starter solenoid). This brown wire located at the starter relay plugs into on of the two metal prongs at starter relay. When the red/blue wire get positive feed at starter relay, it also provide power to the adjacent (second prong) and give the brown wire power, thus providing the power all the way to the white wire coming out of the ignition module.
I checked and have 12 volts @positive side of coil with ignition switch on.
Turned engine over had no spark from coil. I tried again and got one spark from coil but nothing else.
Is my next step to replace the coil. The Accel coil is only two yrs. old.
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Anyway, I eventually found out it was the coil. So I got an MSD. Worked good for a while, but when it went, it just quit entirely. I put the stock one (now 35+ years old) back on; never another problem.
So now I take a negative view of anything Accel. I'm surprised yours made it to 2 years! Honestly, I dont know who makes a good coil. I'd even consider going to a junkyard to find an old stocker. But maybe that's just me.
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I checked and have 12 volts @positive side of coil with ignition switch on.
Turned engine over had no spark from coil. I tried again and got one spark from coil but nothing else.
Is my next step to replace the coil. The Accel coil is only two yrs. old.
http://www.performancedistributors.com/forddui.htm
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