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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:49 PM
  #16  
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From: london, ontario
haven't been able to find one yet. i'm still looking
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 04:20 PM
  #17  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
If you have a Fluke 87 or 88 digital meter they have the ability to read dwell, if not your local auto parts store. Have you watched your mechanical advance with a timing light? You should have a smooth repeatable advance. Yet you state it idles, to me sounds like carb related problems.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Oct 23, 2006 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:57 AM
  #18  
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it's not the carb, i've got 2. i can turn the dist almost 90 degrees and doesn't sound much worse. i sprayed out the dist with some cleaner today, didn't make any difference. the vac advance seems to move ok, and there wasn't that much gunk in the dist, just some black dust. now i think the starter seleniod is going, when i turn the key it only moves a little then stops. i'll order one today and see if that helps? the +wire from the battery gets really hot quickly.lol i'm still looking for a timing light and a dwell meter.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 12:42 PM
  #19  
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From: "Islander"
I'm not familar with that 6 but a typical 6 has the intake bolted against the exhaust for heat transfer under the carb?
You may have a small hole burnt thru the exhaust manifold now it's entering into the intake. If so you'll run on idle until you throttle up when exhaust pressure increases as well exhaust flame that can ignite the intake charge.
This can drive you crazy until found.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 09:48 PM
  #20  
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From: london, ontario
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I'm not familar with that 6 but a typical 6 has the intake bolted against the exhaust for heat transfer under the carb?
You may have a small hole burnt thru the exhaust manifold now it's entering into the intake. If so you'll run on idle until you throttle up when exhaust pressure increases as well exhaust flame that can ignite the intake charge.
This can drive you crazy until found.
anyi idea how i could find this out? i looked when i changed the gasket but didn't see any cracks or such. mabye pull off the manifolds and pllug the exhaust, then fill with water and see if i get any in the intake? i tried spraying liquid wrench on the exhaust but didn't notice any change. not that i sprayed the whole thing, just around the carb where the two join.
thanks all
mark
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #21  
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From: "Islander"
We (dad and I) had this burn thru problem 35 years ago on the 56 Mercedes.
At 2:30 one morning in the shop blowing air thru the exhaust manifold with rags stuffed and tape across the other open ports air came thru the intake manifold. The cast iron exhaust manifold had a thin spot that rusted and burned thru, bolted above was the intake also rusted with a 1/16" hole.
When you throttled up or under load it popped thru the dual carbs.
One in ten million chance?

With a good idle the compression must be equal on all six cylinders with good valve sealing.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Oct 25, 2006 at 11:20 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 12:17 AM
  #22  
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From: in the springs
have you checked the dizzy shaft?? the roll pin may be sheared giving you all these problems. you can turn the dizzy almost 90 degrees with no change in idle???
 
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #23  
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it changes, but will still run, and it might be a little closer to 75, how much play in the shaft should there be? i can turn this one about 1/3 of the flat on the shaft, but it doesn't wiggle sidewas.
mark
 
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #24  
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From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
These engines did not use timing chain but rather gears as indicated. A common problem is for these distributors to shear the roll pin that holds the the driven gear to the distributors shaft. Pull the distributor and check it! Bad lifters could also cause this problem but check the dizzy first as it definitely sounds timing related.

Frank
 
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 10:40 PM
  #25  
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From: in the springs
mark the dizzy pointer pull it out hold the drive gear and try too turn the rotor if it moves at all go buy a new one ( as they are fairly inexpensive).
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #26  
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well it finally works. looks like it was the dist all along. it runs great, lots of power. now it's got the pertronics in it so i'm getting a better spark, rebuilt starter thats twice as fast as the old one, new carb, new plugs, ignitor 2 coil, new intake gasket, plus 2 new parking tickets from the mechanic.
over $1000 and all i needed was a $75 dist.
still need to find a timing light, and put on a new cap and rotor but no-one in town carries then, have to be ordered in, what a joke.
thanks for the help all.
mark
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #27  
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Watch the Canadian Tire flyer/web site for deals on tools .
They put a complete tune-up kit together in a nice case ..and put it on sale for christmas.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/home.jsp?...d6f9c89a846937

also Princess Auto gets Equus Products in sometimes.
http://www.princessauto.com/moreinfo...53092&SCAN=CAN

You can view both catalogues online
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Nov 9, 2006 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 04:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by marks69
well today i got it home, sorta.lol
changed the plugs, added some new gas, new fuel filter plus added an inline filter. sounds great till i touch the gas. still backfires bad with no power. it runs fine when cold, but when it heats up the problem starts. when it stops snowing i'll take the dist off and bring it inside to clean out. is carb cleaner ok for the inside the dist?
also would too much carb cleaner in the gas likely to cause this? there's a can in the back of the truck, and i don't know how it got there. there's only 1/4 of gas in the tank, and am not sure if the mechanic added it to my tank.
thanks all
mark
Almost sounds like one or more valves sticking open when it warms up.... or carbon on an intake valve glowing hot when fuel /air hits it after warm up... boom! out the manifold and carb the burning charge comes....
 
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