Woofer location
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
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From: Enjoying the real world.
Woofer location
Here are the basics about my truck:
2006 Roush F-150 Supercrew.
Its basically a show vehicle, with only business related mileage. No storage in the bed area, nor will there be (boxes would look like hell on a truck like this).
I want to put in a sub-woofer and do not want to put it under the rear seat because I need that limited area for storage.
My investigations lead me to believe there isn't room behind the rear seat, unlike the previous generation F-150. So I'm left with two choices:
1. Rear center enclosure on the floor. It needs to look like it belongs there. None of this bass tube crap. If there isn't anything available, I may make a custom one and wrap it in leather to match the Roush seats.
2. Under the front passenger seat.
I'd really prefer #2. Does anyone know of a ready-made solution? I'm not opposed to making something myself but these days my free time is worth more to me than saving a few bucks on an enclosure.
2006 Roush F-150 Supercrew.
Its basically a show vehicle, with only business related mileage. No storage in the bed area, nor will there be (boxes would look like hell on a truck like this).
I want to put in a sub-woofer and do not want to put it under the rear seat because I need that limited area for storage.
My investigations lead me to believe there isn't room behind the rear seat, unlike the previous generation F-150. So I'm left with two choices:
1. Rear center enclosure on the floor. It needs to look like it belongs there. None of this bass tube crap. If there isn't anything available, I may make a custom one and wrap it in leather to match the Roush seats.
2. Under the front passenger seat.
I'd really prefer #2. Does anyone know of a ready-made solution? I'm not opposed to making something myself but these days my free time is worth more to me than saving a few bucks on an enclosure.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,628
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From: Calgary, Canada
Have a look at the pioneer shallow mount subs. You should be able to get away with just under 6" space requirement (front to back) if my calculations are correct. That's with a 3/4" front panel, a 1/2" back panel and 3/4" space behind the sub... should give you 5 5/8. it can live in an enclosure of 0.35 cubic feet... pretty small. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...969808,00.html
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 469
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From: Independence, Missouri
Pioneer's Premier Series has a shallow mount 8" subwoofer. I mounted a set of these in a guys kick panel for midbass. They did pretty good. My latest use of a set of 10" shallows were in a Extended Cab GMC where I mounted them into the back doors on each side. Built enclosures using Tru-pan (lightweight MDF) and Fiberglass. Any of the shallow mount subs be it regular Pioneer or Premier Series would be the way to go for limited space. They are actually two cones with an air gab between them with a cloth surround on them that somehow works. They are power hungry subs so don't skimp on the power. They'll handle it.
Here's a link to the Premier 8". You can find the other subs and info as well. HERE
Here's a link to the Premier 8". You can find the other subs and info as well. HERE
Last edited by KCAutosound; Oct 16, 2006 at 12:09 AM.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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There is a box that they call a stealth box that fits into the compartment(s) under the back seat that you can order with a 10" or 12" sub-woofer. My buddy had one in his 2004 f-150. He had a 12" and it sounded good. These are sold at Mickey Shorr which is also owned by ABC Warehouse. Give that a gander, check it out and see what you think about that.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Abilene, TX
There is not enough space under the passenger seat to install a sub, I have researched this when installing mine and I setteled on a box that fits under the drivers side rear seat. with my amp mounted under the passenger seat. This is in a 04 SCREW.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
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From: Enjoying the real world.
Did you research low profile subs as well?
Under the rear seat is exactly what I plan to avoid. I'll skip on a sub if I have to give that space up.
Under the rear seat is exactly what I plan to avoid. I'll skip on a sub if I have to give that space up.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Abilene, TX
yea i looked into the low pro subs but there is just not enough room under that seat to put a sub. if I remember correctly the tallest part is only 3-4 inches. Unless I over looked something in my search I did not see any feasabile way to mount it under the seat. As was stated before JL makes a stelth box that mounts in your center arm rest, just not to sure how it sounds or what type of vibration and rattle you would get out of it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
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From: Enjoying the real world.
It looks like the Pioneer is 2 7/8". Leaves 1 1/8" for space and enclosure. I don't plan on wood or fiberglass. Both too thick. I can handle poured plastic. Adds about 1/8" on the top, and 1/8" on the bottom. Will leave about 7/8" give or take.
I'll fab templates out of cardboard. I think with a slanted slope on the front and back I might squeeze in excess of .40 cubic feet. According to the specs this speaker will work with .35-.70 cubic feet of space. May even look into raising the seats up 1/4" with spacers (not very hard). I'll measure out the dimensions with and without spacers to see if its doable.
Hmmmm.... this may turn into an all out tech article if I can squeeze the space.
FYI... I realize I'm not going to get the loudest bass. That's not my goal... too loud.... well, its not smart as I'd prefer to keep my hearing over impressing anyone. I just want something with better definition than the factory system.
I'll fab templates out of cardboard. I think with a slanted slope on the front and back I might squeeze in excess of .40 cubic feet. According to the specs this speaker will work with .35-.70 cubic feet of space. May even look into raising the seats up 1/4" with spacers (not very hard). I'll measure out the dimensions with and without spacers to see if its doable.
Hmmmm.... this may turn into an all out tech article if I can squeeze the space.
FYI... I realize I'm not going to get the loudest bass. That's not my goal... too loud.... well, its not smart as I'd prefer to keep my hearing over impressing anyone. I just want something with better definition than the factory system.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Abilene, TX
Heck I if you are able to get it to fit there I would love to see a full blown tech article on this, I am all for not being able to see my sub box. I dont have any thunderous bass either just enough to feel it a little and more to music.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
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From: Enjoying the real world.
I just got an idea for making a mold that will max out the available space. Fill a foil (mylar foil should work) enclosure with expanding urethane foam. It'll expand to fit every nook and cranny under the seat. Then, remove the seat, take out the enclosure (after its hardened).
Remove the mylar, shave the front and back to a straight edge. Then, make a plaster mold with that. Pour in polyurethane, cure and presto... an enclosure that makes use of every inch of space. I'll have to cut a port in the enclosure and recess the speaker slightly but this looks like the best course of action... provided my initial card-board templates show there will be enough space (that's the catch for this entire project).
If it works I'll see if one of the sponsors wants the mold so others can benefit.
Remove the mylar, shave the front and back to a straight edge. Then, make a plaster mold with that. Pour in polyurethane, cure and presto... an enclosure that makes use of every inch of space.
I'll have to cut a port in the enclosure and recess the speaker slightly but this looks like the best course of action... provided my initial card-board templates show there will be enough space (that's the catch for this entire project).If it works I'll see if one of the sponsors wants the mold so others can benefit.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
Likes: 18
From: Enjoying the real world.
Its actually only about 4-6 hours work total.
The mylar molding will only take 10-15 minutes. Removing the seat I figure 30 minutes (I'll unbolt the seat before making the mold!). Shaving front and back... 30-45 minutes.
Plaster mold... that's very quick. You just mix the plaster and pour it over. Let it dry, then remove the expansion foam. Its very soft, you can remove it just by pulling it out. Its that "Great Stuff" you get in spray cans to fill in cracks in insultation). Then pour in the polyurethane and let it dry.
The most time consuming part will be sanding down the poly to have a factory finish and painting it with plastic paint.
It'll take a couple of days due to curing/drying time for each step but I have 2nd truck to drive. I've done some plastic work in the past so this will be a cinch.
The mylar molding will only take 10-15 minutes. Removing the seat I figure 30 minutes (I'll unbolt the seat before making the mold!). Shaving front and back... 30-45 minutes.
Plaster mold... that's very quick. You just mix the plaster and pour it over. Let it dry, then remove the expansion foam. Its very soft, you can remove it just by pulling it out. Its that "Great Stuff" you get in spray cans to fill in cracks in insultation). Then pour in the polyurethane and let it dry.
The most time consuming part will be sanding down the poly to have a factory finish and painting it with plastic paint.
It'll take a couple of days due to curing/drying time for each step but I have 2nd truck to drive. I've done some plastic work in the past so this will be a cinch.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Abilene, TX
Hey there just checked again and you have about 4.5 inches to work with under the seat, at least at the rear. So it seems that your idea is very feasible, cant wait to see how it turns out. Good Luck