When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When i ordered my new turbo I made the decision to go with a brand new "blank" pedistal and an exhuast flange without the flapper. In doing this i realized that when i use this set-up im going to be throwing codes. So i ordered a stage2 ebpv code eliminator to stop the code issue from happening.
Is there anything else Im going to need to go with my ebpz delete set-up?
Its been a hard month on my wallet but going over the truck completely. New steering stabilizer, added a leaf up front on the spring. New tubo and pedistal going in next weekend, and also replacing my up pipe flange gaskets, new tires(stock), guages going in next weekend. Fixed my stat housing leak with a little rtv. I think thats it. OHH, and i gotta get it inspected by the end of the month.
well, i have both, and the codes that are thrown are not ones that light up the dash light. you dont even know they are thrown. i just taped them up and taped them to the rest of the harness in the valley, no problems. remember 200 in/lbs on the 12pt bolts on the turbo (red locktite) and 10 lb-ft on the four pedestal bolts, and 18 lb-ft on the two turbo bolts holding it to the pedestal.
thanks kris, had the turbo guy mount up the flange for me. For once i was thinking ahead. I got the blank pedistall, turbo, flapper delete flange all from the same guy. It turned out to be a sweet deal and the turbo has a 1 year unlimited mile warr. Stock size turbo though with new banks comp wheel, but im not getting into bigger oil, inj. with this truck.
Old one is worn pretty bad. Im told by a couple of rebuilders that it isnt reduidable due to the amount of play im describing to them over the phone. I can pretty much put downward pressure on the compressor wheel shaft and the wheel wont turn becuase it touches the housing. Not good! Squeezed 160,000 miles out of that one. But its a gamble. If i send it out to utah to the shop i bought my new one from i might get a core on it. If its rebuildable. $100 i think. Every shop i talk to say that when then get that bad its beyond just replacing the bushings and having a "like new" turbo again. Where the bushings ride gets out of tolerance, making the center piece of the turbo junk. Its a shame becuase my compressor wheel on my oold turbo looks brand new. no dings missing fins or any abuse signs. and a lot of the miles put on the truck were without the kwikk mod. Let me know if any of my old turbo is of use to you.
im planning on getting the garrette bb turbo, will i need the non ebpv pedestal with it?
That's entirely up to you. It depends on whether you want to keep the EBPV or not. If you keep your stock EBPV, you won't need the pedistal. If you choose to delete it, you'll be best to get the non-EBPV pedistal. The turbo in this case has no efect on what pedistal you'll use.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.