I have run Mobil 1 with a K&N oil filter in every vehicle I've ever bought brand new. I would like to do the same in my 1999 V-10 with 73K on the clock, but I am unsure of whats been done with it previously. I'm pretty sure it had an oil change done at the dealer due to the Motorcraft oil filter, though I could be wrong, because they are sold elsewhere. I have good peace of mind when running Mobil 1 and the K&N oil filter. I like the K&N oil filter for its metal internals, high pressure bypass, and 1" nut on the back. Is it ok to run full synthetic on an engine with an unknown past? I don't want to annhiliate any seals or anything. I dont mind the cost difference, I just like the peace of mind.

 

You could, if it puts your mind at peace. By the same token, there's absolutely nothing wrong with running the semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5W20 with a Motorcraft 820S filter (both available at wally world). Your '99 probably says 5W30 in the owner's manual and that will work, but Ford put out a TSB recommending 5W20 in all the V10's.

If you use the K&N filter make sure it has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Otherwise you'll get a rattle every time you start up that will drive you crazy and won't help your engine a bit.

I'm a firm believer that if you change the oil and filter at least every 5,000 miles or 4 months with the proper spec oil and filter it doesn't matter what name is on the filter and oil bottle. The engine will not suffer from an oil related failure for at least 200,000 miles. You'll hear about a lot of high-mileage engines on this site that have never seen a drop of synthetic oil.

 

Just food for thought: I tried that (Mobil 1) with my '99 after it had about 40K on it. The oil started going away at a quart every 2000 miles. Never had oil on the engine and no noticeable smoke from the tailpipes.

Thought I'd let you know from that point of view.

 

I am firmly in the 3000 to 5000 mile change camp and my personal peace of mind is from a every 90 day oil change on all my vehicles... I know 4 times a year is over kill and mildly ****, but in 35 years of owning cars all the ones I change oil frequently on lasted very very long lives, some over 16 years old and still on the road with no rebuilds at 300,000 mile plus usage on them

This of course mandates that the cheap guy in me, uses a quality but inexpensive filter and fluid... I am loyal Castrol GTX and Wix filter guy but found out with the Ford V10, that the MotorCraft semi-synthetic oils and the MC filter are very hard to beat in price AND quality..

Hey if your peace of mind is Mobil 1 then use it...it is a good high quality product... I would never pay that much for a throw away in 3 months product, but certainly have no issues with how anybody spends their green

There is more then a few folks in here like Big Orn who suspect that the full synthetics have a higher evaporation rate in this particular motor...

I have theorized that it is the larger surface area in the long wide pan and the metered spray of oil on the bottom side of the pistons that cause this higher evaporation rate with the light weight full synthetics like Mobile 1, Royal Purple, and others

A majority of us who claim to use only MC 5W20 report little to no oil usage in the V10 motor

 

i'm gonna write that last sentence down for the record !!

i do have to say i've even gone to using MC filters on my Z71, with a Castrol semi-syn. so far i have 120K and no rebuilds yet either. VERY good produscts! i'm a 3000-5000 or 90 day man myself too!! my work truck (the Z71) sees 50-75 miles a day to and from work, and the SD doesn't see quite as many since my wife works closer to home, but i'll still change it every 90 days even if it hasn't quite hit the 3K mark yet.

i hate to see when somone comes to my shop wanting an oil change, and the little milage sticky thing is in the upper corner of the windshield, and there is 8K miles difference between the 2 !

 

"Yes I'd like an oil change please. Oh and can you tell me why my engine is making that funny knocking noise?"

 

Relating to the K&N oil filter:

Like I said, over the years I have favored the Wix for cost and quality

Used to be suckered by the pretty colors of other brands before I got into the testing business and learned what each of the tests was designed to prove

Turns out that the MotorCraft FL820S is "one of" the best filters on the market and getting high quality for a scant $2.76 seems to me a real bargain

The specs on the K&N are pretty good, but it is up to you if you think that the specs on the K&N are worth to cost...I can say with a straight face that the K&N in not a superior filter to the Wix or MC filters of the same size

That welded on 1" doo dad is not needed, the position on the V10 is just too easy to spin on or off to need the 1" drive boss welded on the case

The K&N internals are the same as any good quality filter

The K&N anti drain back valve is the same

The K&N filter media does that exact same as the other quality filters in the tests

What you are paying for with the K&N is packaging and advertising hype

If you can get them for $3.79 or less then it is a good deal. Most of the time my stores around here have them at two to three times to cost of the MC filter....

Again my logic says, that for a expendable part, high quality and low cost are key factors. For me at $2.76 in Wally World the MC is best bang for the 90 /120 day throw away buck...Y M M V grin

 

I used Mobil 1 in my wifes Expy with the 5.4 and it was always down a quart or more at the next change (5,000 miles). I decided to try the MC semi-syn 5-20 and now the Expy is on top every time I check it.

I also run the MC 5-20 in my V10 and it does burn it, but it burned the Mobil 1 as well. Seems to me that for the price, you might as well go with the MC oil and filter.

One note: At work we were lucky if the trucks got an oil change ever 10 or even 15,000 miles. And they changed the oil with whatever frog vomit they was cheapest that day. Guess what - the 7.5L (460) in the 96 F350 which towed heavy and hard every day of it's life was still running great at 200,000+ miles. The 96 Aerostar with the 4.0L had almost 250,000 miles when they sold it. Still running good and now engine issues or major engine repairs.

Lesson for me - It is pretty hard to get a modern vehicle not to live, even on extended drains and abuse.

 

Well, I guess I will just continue to run MC oil and filters in my V-10. I am also a 3K/90day kind of person, so oil changes were quite costly. With all of this new info, I see no reason to keep shelling out more cash for the same quality of product.

 

993/4ton

I used to buy into the hype of the super lubes for a couple of years... but never could bring my self to go more then 4 months or 5000 miles... sure do wish I could get back all that cash... I spent a small fortune on over hyped stuff like slick 50, dura lube, royal purple, and other so called super lubricants in several vehicles before I wised up and learned about each of the test specs....and what the oil really does in the motor

I shy away from any asphalt based lube, prefer the semi synthetics for the cost, and always research the newer products... some day I might buy into the extended life lubs with my Americam manufactured motors and tranies...but the quality of the internals still needs to get better.

Frequent oil and filter changes paying close attention to the one way dirt, sand, and crap gets into the motor...the air filter...has proven to work for me

 

I've never been able to bring myself to go over 5k between oil changes either. I guess it is going to be MC for me from now on. Fredvon4, thanks for the info. Do you know where I can view the tests and other info you speak of? I use a K&N drop in for air filtrarion duties. I don't expect a performance gain, it came in the truck when I bought it. I figure buying a recharger kit is better than 4 or 5 paper filters. I pay strict attention to using the proper amount of oil and ensuring it is evenly spread. I dont prefer the K&N dropin over paper, it's just what is already installed, so why not keep it?

 

I agree with Fredvon4 about the Motorcraft stuff. I do all my own oil changes and when I got my V-10 I was using Fram filters and Pennsoil. I had a lower engine knock on startup and after posting about it diagnosed it as the filter drain back valve was leaking and letting oil leak out of the heads. Changed to a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter and it helped. Started using the Motocraft oil and filters and completely solved my problem.

It seems to be great quality stuff and with 82k on the odometer, the oil is still always clear on the dipstick, changed ever 3k. Wally world rocks!

 

i see and have found nothing wrong with the new semi blends esp. the 5w20 and 5w30 motor craft . but as you i only run full castrol or mobil one in my own rigs, i do as some else said see some used with mobil one and use none with castrol. why i sure don't know.
as to running longer i have say i love the full .esp. after i just tore apart my snow blowers 6 hp engine. it had 1000 hours on the meter. i found no wear in the bore. no carbon in the ring groves. a perfect piston. no wear in the valve guides.very little carbon in the head and no sludge inside at all. brass tacks all it needed was a new exhaust valve. because i was lazy and never check the clearence and adjust it. so i would say for my machines i'm staying full in every thing.