Yes, I am new to this forum.

1) What should the Idle be for a 2000 F250 Sd V10 4X4??


2) Will replacing the VSS in the rear turn off my ABS light? The speedo does randomly stop while driving. Does this once in a great moon.

3) How much does the VSS sensor cost? And where did you get it?

Kudo's for the help I have received in here. My "door ajar" light is now off. Thanks for the help everbody.

 

V10'nr

Welcome to the V10 forum

Idle is in the 650-850 range... I think it is calibrated to be 725-775 at full operating temp but all mine floated in the larger spread with most being on the higher side like 800 rpm most of the time

In the early SuperDuty with the VSS feeding a "raw" signal to the ABS computer and the PCM getting the "raw" signal from the ABS and the dash speedo getting the "conditioned" signal from the PCM..... usually if there is a fault it is from the sender on the differential about a $14-$35 dollar part from a dealer... I found that a few of the ones I tracked as bad signal were broken wires or loose connectors... the sensor can not really go bad... one that I worked on we had to open the diff and clean the tone ring on the ring gear

Many folk here in the last 5 years simply plugged in a new sensor, reset the computer ( removed battery cable) and drove normally (Occasionally you will have to performd the "prep for IM test" driving cycle routine) and the CEL and ABS faults were cleared and the speedo started acting right again....

Per forming the "prep for IM test" is only important if your normal driving does not have all the conditions of the test in it... if you have a normal driving route that gets you to full operating temp, has at least three stops, and after each full stop gets you back up over 35 mph that is good enough....

If you fire her up, get on the highway, stop once, and pull into the work parking lot within a few minutes and repeat on the way home there are not enough elements to set the base program and she will stay in "default" program until there is a set of complete conditions met...

The prep for IM test procedure is in every owners manual in the emissions section

 

Again, This is the best place to get the info I need. I thank you for your time and replying to my question.

I will buy a new sensor and clean the ring in the Diff. I hope this fixes my problem.

Again thanks a bunch.

 

V10'nr

Skip the diff opening and see if the new sensor does the trick

That lube is expensive, should not be reused, and if a LS unit can be a a pain getting just the right amount of friction modifier added. To top it all off the cover does not have a real stamped gasket...you must scrape off the old one, clean and dry the surfaces and use a RTV goop to form a new seal... a real chore, not fun and 99% of the time your tone ring will be clean any way.... the one I did was real grody from a few months off road and no vent filter... lots of dust, mud, and sand in the diff


I highly recommend that if you take the truck into the dirt a lot... put a small motorcycle air breather filter on the end of the differential vent hose

 

Fredvon4,

Again, I appreciate your help. The rear lid is leaking some. Do i really need a special lube?? I thought that the Synthetic lubes are good for the rear. So they say they will work for LSD. My friend did say that there was no gasket for this truck.

I figure that once I have the rear lid off I would just clean the ABS ring off with some brake clean. Let it dry and replace lid and fill her up.
Gota check to see if it is a LSD also. Wish I cold see what the clutches look like? Got the truck used and this guy really did not take care of it. Rode it hard and put it away wet.

Thanks again for your help. Kudo's to the 1st SGT.



Capt. USAFR

 

V10'nr

If un sure of the age or cleanliness of the rear diff lube you will be obligated to buy new... the stuff is damned expensive and I personally recommend staying with the factory 75w140 full synthetic stuff

I also do not believe the factory lubed for life thoughts with the stuff unless it never sees dirt water and any other contaminents... hard to do with a 4x4 truck rear axle in my opinion

The Limited Slip unit requires between 4 and 8 oz of a friction modifier

Newer clutches will need more and older worn clutches will need less

I sneak up on the right amount by starting with 2 oz drive test for the shudder chatter, and add 1 oz at a time until the shudder chatter is still there but hard to tell

On new rear ends it is about 6 oz and on the used ones is some time the first 2 oz was too much.. In that case it usually means new springs and clutches are needed to get the LS unit back to full two tire scratch!

When you ask the Ford dealer for the diff lube and he quotes you $18 ~ $21 per quart tell him you can mail order from several sources for $11~$12 per quart, most of the time they will come down on the price... if not google it and wait on the mail

 

Thanks again Fredvon4.. Will do on the lube. I was just reading on the LSD's and will have to do some research if these clutches are gone.

My First Ford 4X4 and learning.

 

go to NAPA and check out the SuperSyn 75w-140 in the green bottle. it's made by Valvoline (just the off brand)! it's also high quality (seen the test on a oil viscocity machine for comparison). i think it's $5.oo +/- per bottle.

 

did you do this to your 05?mine,the lsd is worthless the way it came from the factory.a truetrac is $500 and i was going to try the gear oil change first.if it fixed it on your 05 it should do the trick on mine.does the dealer have friction modifier along with lube in stock usually?

 

bronco521

short answer is No I did not

I am not usually a fan of the factory Limited Slip variations from Ford and chevy..over the years I had just about every one of them.... they are hard to set up properly, and by their design will always become less and less effective over time from clutch or indent dog wear and weakening of springs from heat.

That all said, my 2005 4.30:1 with factory LS was one that worked correctly from day one. Now two years and 32,000 miles later, is still crisp in most of my off road areas but the whole truck is totally useless on wet grass in a field or yard...That has to do a lot with the crap tires. Because of how much time the truck spends on the highway at 75-84 mph I won't shell out the $350 per tire for off road low towing weight capacity tires in the 18" category.

To tell the truth, what I see most people using a SuperDuty truck for, the factory LS unit is pretty good bang for the buck.

On the other hand for a snow plow, or plowed field, or true off road rock climbing, it is not the best solution. I am a fan of the electric lockers because they are easier to do then the air powered ones and all the automatic ones always seem to lock or un lock at the wrong time and screw me up in the side of a real slippery hill or creek bed.

I had the factory LS unit in my 7.3L PSD on steroids with a built up Brian's 4R100 trans and it worked every time I wanted to smoke the tread off 4 huge rear tires with over 900 foot pounds of low rpm torque...so I know the system can hold tight if maintained properly.

My 2001 Platinum came with the LS unit and 3.73:1 gears, it was weak and within the first 5000 miles I had to force Ford to pay for a re lube and let me coach the tech on my friction modifier add in "process".

In a "services" company I was co owner of, (sold now) we had 8, v10 powered, SuperDuty trucks and all had factory LS units (I will not deliberately ever own and "open" differential)... I had to force Ford to eat the cost of re-lubing 4 of the 8 to my "process" for the same reason... one wheel only traction from new...unacceptable when we paid for the LS differential option when we ordered the trucks.

For the gent above who recommends the $5.00 valvoline rear diff lube...consider this... The engineers choose the lubricants for many different reasons... and they chose the specific rubber compound for all the seals based on wear, heat, and compatibility with the lubricants. Knowing that, and knowing how much labor is involved in replacing the seals I tend to NOT change away from the factory recommend lubes unless I know for a fact there can be no adverse impact...

I use a 75,000 mile re-lube schedule on rear ends unless I contaminated the lube... so paying for the factory stuff seems reasonable to me as long as I can prevent them from gouging me with a $18 per quart rip off...

Of course 80-90% of the time this is not an issue for a new unit with low miles. But once the seals have been in there more then 3~5 years or over 50,000 miles I don't want to chance it...again YMMV

 

fredvon..i just ordered 285/65-18 at nittos and after they are on i'm going to do something about the lsd.i called reider racing to see if there was a heavier spring for the diff(dealer said it only takes 25lb-ft to open) and they said no.mine will not spin both tires on pavement ,one just goes up in a puff.it is worthless in snow.my truck is not used off-road,just driving and towing .i usually put 800lb in the bed and this helps but is not the answer.where can the gear lube be mail ordered from?and how many quarts does this hold?

 

Summit Racing, Jegs, NAPA, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Ford Dealer ect......

kinda depends on what brand........Lucas, Royal Purple, MotoCraft, Red Line....

all of these are great brands of LS additive! price wise the Royal Purple, & Red Line are on the expensive side. your MC & Lucas (sold at your parts store) will probably be with in your price range. and like i said, before forking out alot on fluid, check out NAPA for your gear oil. i use SuperSyn (full synthetic) fluid on all my trucks(and costomer/friends vehicles), and its the off brand of Valvoline! defenetly fits almost anyones budget.

 

i took it by the way he said it that the motorcraft could be mail ordered.i'm aware of all the other places you listed and used royal purple in my mustang.price range is not the issue ,putting the right stuff in as to not screw up warranty is.

 

another welcome Capt. from another proud inactive member of our great services.
you can take fred's help right to the bank and most of us will bend over to help you out.
now one ? for you. what do you happen to fly?

 

10-4 good buddy. i guess it depend how picky the dealer is. i've put Lucas in the chunks after calling the Ford dealers in NC. they said that it wasn't the brand that mattered, just to make sure it was put in. some dealers may be alittle more picky.

when i had my FX4 Ranger (yea that one was a mistake), i added Royal purple after a rear end fluid change and the dealer still warentied my gears after a mud race incident.