Aerostar needs a Jacket
Late last winter here in northern california the Aero started running rough and dying on me (cold temperatures) , I replaced the TPS-Throttle Position sensor and that seem to somewhat take care of the problem but it still had a little bit of rough running. (pulled the codes and it told me about the TPS)
During summer and warm temperatures it did fine but now with cooler temperatures is running rough, almost dies and hesitating again ! It is definately the cooler weather that is afecting it. What can it be causing that ? The air temperature sensor maybe? I replaced it not 2 years ago. Although that is not an assurance.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks.
Which engine do you have? what year?
One thing I forgot to mention is that the check engine light used to come on before I replaced the TPS. So far it has not light up yet (knock on wood) or since.
During summer it ran good with a slight hesitation.
Thanks.
Have you checked your base timing, AND your ign timing?
If you punch it, does it backfire through the intake? I'm just trying to think of all the things my 3.0 89 did -
How about vaccum?
How about cleaning the TB - the flap gets REALLY nasty about every 2 years - I usually spray the whole intake out about every other air filter change - I usually change the air filter about every year or so... how many miles does yours have?
What does the temp run at? has it ever overheated? The 3.0L is supposed to be soild, but I'm just trying to think of anything that would cause it to run rough when it's warmed up, besides timing, a bad injector, or plug not firing...
it would seem that it is air related - colder air, is denser air - I would start with timing and vaccum, and see if those system check out first... that is, if you recently tuned it up, etc.
Mine will STALL if I give it too much gas when the engine is cold - you have to feather it, or drive with 2 feet... still trying to figure it out - no codes
This summer I did a full tune up (except for the plug wires). I did the following :
Changed plugs with the 4 prong platinum spitfire.
Changed all vacuum lines.
Replaced cap and rotor.
Replaced air filter and cleaned out the intake.
Last summer my water pump went out and was spilling water out the reservoir and replaced it but the gauge never went up to hot (electronic display) it always stayed in the middle.
As far as the timing I do not know, That's one thing I have never tried to do and do not feel confortable doing it but I guess I could learn. I've done most everything else !
It does not backfire plus I'm going to try again if I can get the codes (I tried 2 weeks ago and no codes)
Thanks again.
Oh my! Change those plugs ASAP! I ran them for about a week, pinged like crazy - they run too hot for the engine, and will cause damage to your pistons over time -
Wires, I think, are the MOST important thing to change actually...
Here is what I would do:
Go to dealership, and get MC plugs and MC wires - I usually don't like the steelership for ANYTHING, but there are a handfull of things for Fords that I think really are BETTER as OEM - Plugs and Wires are one such thing, and I think you will see on here that MANY people would agree - some like Autolite plugs and wires too - but I've NEVER had a problem with MC plugs and wires.
Before you start messing with the timing, I would do that - One bad wire will make the engine on a 3.0 run rough all the time... all it takes is a small part of the insulation to break down, and moisture will get in there, and cause a misfire...
You have an electronic dash? that's strange - you sure it's an 89? mine is all analog - maybe they changed it mid year or something - I actually like analog gauges - digital gauges to me just seem like a gimmic - but I guess a real mechanic would think any gauge is just for fun...
Sounds like you did do all the other stuff... and you replaced all the vaccum hoses... that is something I really should do on mine - the rubber is 17+ years old! but, I never take my own advice :-)
timing on the dist aeros makes all the difference I have found - mine was out by 10 degrees, and when it was fixed, it ran like a new van...
when you do pull the plugs, I'd also do a compression test for each cylinder - it's easy to do, and will confirm that you do have a major problem with your engine... were any of your plugs wet when you pulled them last time? if not, what color were they?
I know a guy in town that says he can look at a set of plugs and engine oil of a car, and know everything there is to know about what's wrong - I always kid him, and say - "have you worked on anything beyond 1975?" - it's true, you can tell a lot, but not everything... The plugs could tell you why you have a rough idle though... if you have a miss, and it's a bad wire, that plug will look different than the others, since all the fuel is not getting burned, etc...
Does it smoke at all?
Where in NCa are you? I lived in Sunnyvale for a while, with that van - back when it was almost NEW - drove it all through those crazy mountians...
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Problem appeared yestarday. May be octane ratio of gas is to hight (my van runs bad on oct. 93-95 gas). But the tank is full, so I gonna refill it this weekend.
It does smoke a little (grey smoke) not too noticeable. When I changed the plugs all looked good and non were wet and they looked O.K. I'll replace the wires and plugs again and maybe take it to a mechanic to have the ignition timing cheked
Gees, scraped knukles again ! Oh well the aero has never left me stranded anywere except at home once (when the distribuitor's ignition module went out ) so that's the least I can do
I've replaced it seems about 3/4 of the parts and sensors in the engine compartment so it is fustrating as hell.
I live in Bay Point,Ca. In the S.F East Bay area right next to Concord. So we were neighbors (sort of).
Good luck Pablo, Let me know what you find and I will do likewise.
if your compression is high, and about the same for every cyl, I'd put the new MC or Autolite plugs and wires in, and if it still runs like crap, I'd have the timing checked...
It is important that the mechanic check BOTH your base timing AND ign timing - one could be perfect, and the other off - usually if your base timing is off, your ign will never be right (or is that backwards) can't remember - been a while since I thought about it - but they are both important...
The timing curve will change as the engine warms up, and driving conditions -
One question: did you put a MC Ign Module (TFI) in there when you replaced it? just trying to bring up anything that could help you -
Well, I have to get back to work on my wife's chevy - I spend too much time trying to fix her car, and I can't enjoy my Fords - she took my Explorer to work, and told me on the phone "you know, if you need a week to fix it, no problem" - she never used to say that if she had to drive the aerostar to work - out of the 3 cars, it's still my favorate vehicle - I don't care what my friends say about me - :-)



