I have a 66 f250 and the right rear wheel is oily. I am new to ford trucks and am haveing trouble removing the drum/hub assembly. I have another car so if this one does not go for a little I will live. My problem is I can't seem to get the right size socket to remove the wheel nut. I measured the nut with a tape measure (not the most accurate but...) and got 2 3/8. When I bought that size socket from Sears it was too loose, but the next size smaller they had was 2 1/4 which was too small. I looked at their online order form and they do not have a 2 5/16. Does that size exist, and or did I get the right size for that measurement. Is there a special tool for this.
Thanks

 

Go to a GOOD parts house and tell them what you want. You can decode the axle but my guess is you have a Dana 60. There are special wrenches made for that axle nut. Should not cost much over $15.00. Be sure to check the torque on the nut and jam nut when you go back. Also be extremely careful when you put that heavy hub assembly back on the axle. Don't damage the new seal or you'll have the same problem. Good luck,
ray

 

My F-350 with the Dana 70 axle uses a special nut with four rounded corners. The socket is available from NAPA, cost me nearly $30 for a K-D Tools part, made in USA.
Not sure if the F-250 (Dana 60) is the same nut - ask your friendly Napa counterperson.

 

On the Dana 70 series it is 2-9/16", but on a 75. When installing look at the bearings and raceway for pit marks or scoring, replace if damaged. When tightening, make sure grease is on the tapered rollers- its used for protection at slow speed untill the gear oil can take over at high speed. Torque to 50-60lbs then back off 1/3 turn (bearing preload)

 

I had this same problem on my rear wheel, '79 F150. If you have oil on the inside of the tire like I did it is the axle seal gone bad.

I took this to my local Les Schwab (full svc. tire store) and had them replace it for $80 with a year warranty. This is an option in case you don't expect to use the special tools again. The seal has to be pressed on with a hydraulic press anyway. I didn't have one of those either.

Many of you here will be the ones who want the special tools and also own a press. My hat's off to ya.

 

The F150 will have a 3/4 floating rear axle.
The F250 will have a full floating rear axle.
Completely different units--different repair proceedures.
ray

 

Thanks for the help - this thread is very timely.

In June I bought a '71 F-350. I did a front brake job yesterday and started on the rear brakes today. If it wasn't for this thread I would have a tougher time getting the rear drums off.

My truck has the 9/16 lugs with 1-1/16 lug nuts and the full-floating rear. The nut to remove the rear drum measures 2-9/16 and I'm off to Napa to get the right socket/wrench.

One tool I've found to be indespensible for working on this truck is a 3/4" drive ratchet. I use the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter so I can use my 1/2" drive sockets. I bought it a few years ago at a local tool store for about $50. I had to use the large ratchet to get the lug nuts started because my air impact wrench couldn't budge them. I'm only running 110 lbs. on my compressor and it didn't produce enough torque.

Thanks again.

Bruce