full torque
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: clinton, tn
full torque
last week i had the dreaded "plug blow out" happen, on my 01' F250 while driving back from dixie run. after i said a few choice words to myself, i heard the symtoms, just though it was an exaust leak and did'nt check, i pulled what was left of the coil out of the hole, unplugged the FI and was still able to keep up with my buddies hot rod 7.3 PS, both of us crusing at 85mph towing our jeeps. of course mine sounded like a steam engine. anyway my point to all this rambiling is that after i exausted all avenues of fixing the problem, i ordered the full torque kit to fix it. i called time sert as well, but decided to go with the FT as there system seemed to be better in my opinion. as such, if anybody needs a blow out fix in the knoxville TN area, i've got a kit and would be more than happy to try to make some money back on this investment.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: clinton, tn
well i just finished the insert today.
to answer your question, yes i did a plug check at about 90k. it's got 120k now. at the time i did not know about the torque speck, and the 3 that i took out just got the old "eh, that feels good enough" the one that blew was one of the 3 i took out.
as far as the insert procedure goes, you better have a big sack between your legs before you attempt the "over the fender" method.
to start with, you ream a big hole where the threads used to be. once you start this your to the point of no return. you start thinking about how much your truck costs and if you screw it up, your buying a new head.
after that you run a tap though it. that's no so bad but you start thinking "if i run this thing down to far.....plop there's a tap in your cylinder". btw this was number 5 cyl, witch is right above the cowl, and you can't see directly in the hole. so a flash light and mirror are necessary to see what you are doing. a magnet on a stick is also required to retrieve the tap and insert tool.
the next thing was to thread in the insert. no big deal. after that you drill a 1/16 hole in the side of the threads, through the tool with a 8" long bit through a tube. i was a pube hair away from finishing this when the bit broke. the initial feeling that is associated with this is where those big nads are handy. luckily it was right at the chuck, and i had drilled enough to insert the lock pin. remove the insert tool and torque the new plug in and your done.
my final assessment of this kit is excellent. the tools are top notch, the instructions are thorough (it comes with a movie as well) and the end result is a permanent fix that is stronger than the original threads.
the main reason i went with the full torque kit is becouse of the hard anodized AL inserts. a plug will "weld" itself to a steel insert over time, so when you remove it, the insert will follow it.
to answer your question, yes i did a plug check at about 90k. it's got 120k now. at the time i did not know about the torque speck, and the 3 that i took out just got the old "eh, that feels good enough" the one that blew was one of the 3 i took out.
as far as the insert procedure goes, you better have a big sack between your legs before you attempt the "over the fender" method.
to start with, you ream a big hole where the threads used to be. once you start this your to the point of no return. you start thinking about how much your truck costs and if you screw it up, your buying a new head.
after that you run a tap though it. that's no so bad but you start thinking "if i run this thing down to far.....plop there's a tap in your cylinder". btw this was number 5 cyl, witch is right above the cowl, and you can't see directly in the hole. so a flash light and mirror are necessary to see what you are doing. a magnet on a stick is also required to retrieve the tap and insert tool.
the next thing was to thread in the insert. no big deal. after that you drill a 1/16 hole in the side of the threads, through the tool with a 8" long bit through a tube. i was a pube hair away from finishing this when the bit broke. the initial feeling that is associated with this is where those big nads are handy. luckily it was right at the chuck, and i had drilled enough to insert the lock pin. remove the insert tool and torque the new plug in and your done.
my final assessment of this kit is excellent. the tools are top notch, the instructions are thorough (it comes with a movie as well) and the end result is a permanent fix that is stronger than the original threads.
the main reason i went with the full torque kit is becouse of the hard anodized AL inserts. a plug will "weld" itself to a steel insert over time, so when you remove it, the insert will follow it.
Last edited by commandtoad2; Oct 14, 2006 at 05:17 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
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From: north west new jersey
i have used both brans for many many years man.they are bith top notch. but 1 thing now that you have the kit do the other 9.and make sure you use the new type insert on them all.
oyeh do i hear you about the pading esp when your laying across from the front and over the hood latch with you you know whats . i did my plugs a few weeks back and said the same thing wheres a pillow pad.
oyeh do i hear you about the pading esp when your laying across from the front and over the hood latch with you you know whats . i did my plugs a few weeks back and said the same thing wheres a pillow pad.
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