main bearings
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: right here in michigan
Originally Posted by lilpro
Heres the pistions i want to get. So whats the longest connecting rod i can use?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
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From: fargo, nd
im going with probe pistons for my stroker www.probeindustries.com -they seem to have a pretty decent selection and from what ive read theyve got pretty decent quality
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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So before i get the crank machined i need to put it into the block (do i put in the rear main seal yet or what for next time) then i will need bearings, rods, and pistions and the use one of thoses plateigage and then after that get it machined right? And what do i need to look for?
Thanks for the help
Michael
Thanks for the help
Michael
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: right here in michigan
Originally Posted by lilpro
So before i get the crank machined i need to put it into the block (do i put in the rear main seal yet or what for next time) then i will need bearings, rods, and pistions and the use one of thoses plateigage and then after that get it machined right? And what do i need to look for?
Thanks for the help
Michael
Thanks for the help
Michael
Elder User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 877
Likes: 2
From: Missouri
Before you can get the crank balanced you'll need to get all of your parts. Who ever does the final balancing needs the rods,pistions and rings to determine the bob wieght. The rods and pistons will need a little work on them also so that they all wiegh the same.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
don't forget the pins and the rod bearings need to go with that also as well as the flywheel or flexplate, harmonic dampner, spacer and lower timing gear.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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So i end up returing the first crank and bought and then bought then Scat 4.300 crank. So im wondering with the following parts im about to list if there the right parts and if they are what size of bearings should i get (stock, undersize .10, .20 ect)??
Summint racing part # and do you think i can get these parts cheaper anywhere?
<!--StartFragment --> ESP-68003D
<!--StartFragment --> JEP-170879-8
Summint racing part # and do you think i can get these parts cheaper anywhere?
<!--StartFragment --> ESP-68003D
<!--StartFragment --> JEP-170879-8
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
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From: fargo, nd
stock size mains because youre replacing the crank with a new one, and bbc rod bearings
also as far as price ive found www.cnc-motorsports.com to be the cheapest for stroker stuff
also as far as price ive found www.cnc-motorsports.com to be the cheapest for stroker stuff
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Few more questions before i order my stuff. Do i want flat top pistons, or inverted dome pistons? Also do new connecting rods come with bearings or do i need to order bearings for main caps and rods?
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
don't forget...the flywheel or flexplate, harmonic dampner, spacer and lower timing gear.
Just my opinion,
Paul
Last edited by Paul Kane; Oct 24, 2006 at 05:14 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by bronco521
do you mean get the crank balanced?you don't have to clear the block for any thing,so you don't have to pre-assemble to check for interferance.you do have to check bearing clearances but not until after getting the rotating assembly balanced.i guess i'm not clear on what you've got going on.
I took my crank, rod, and piston kit along with block (A-460) to a machine shop and told him I wanted all crank cleareances checked, and if they were ok to balance the rotating assembly.
When I picked it up he said it would need X-bearings on the mains. (He had it balanced)
When I was putting the rods on the crank, I found that the clearance was 015 and I could not find any X-bearings for the rods. Now I had a crank that I could not return because it had mallory in it.
I took the crank to another shop to try to get the rod clearance right, to make a long story short, by the time this shop got thru with it it was a new 10/20 crank.
My point is, check all clearances before balancing.
And by all means find a good machine shop.
My next crank will not be touched around here.
Its bad when you spend your money for parts from a wonderfull vendor that takes time to figure out a build to suit your application, and you let a machine shop (or two) mess up the party.
Just my experience, or mistake. You make the call.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: fargo, nd
what heads are you running? what fuel? how thick is your head gasket? whats your deck height? what rods did you decide on? what cam are you running? all of these will have an effect on your compression ratio- and therefore your piston head type- d3ve's, .041 head gaskets, 6.7" rods and 87 octane with an rv cam on a 4.3" stroke you should have a dished piston... if you were running 91 octane premium and a bigger cam you could get by with flat tops, without running race gas i wouldnt recommend dove heads on a stroker
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
Originally Posted by Paul Kane
If one is getting his rotating assembly internally balanced and the shop asks for the zero balance componentry, pick your parts up and get the hell out of that balancing shop before the lazy-*** technician butcher's your engine parts, and be sure to tell all your friends. These parts should not be needed in a proplerly balanced rotating assy, but some tech's are too lazy to pull the crank and take out/add weight, and instead just drill the flywheel, etc while the entire rotating assy stays mocked up.
Just my opinion,
Paul
Just my opinion,
Paul