Problem starting 7.3
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Problem starting 7.3
Ok, so I have a 1990 7.3 IDI E-350, and it NEVER wants to start, but once it is running, it is just fine. I can give it a little shot of some starting fluid (never directly into the intake though) and it will almost start right up, followed by a bit of white smoke. I have changed the glow plug relay and the plugs, but a friend said there is a sensor that would cause this problem too, anyone have any thoughts???
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From: Powell River B.C.
Welcome to a great web site biglex, to tell you the truth it sounds like you have an air leak problem, usually o-rings and hoses on the return system on the injectors. If they are all still painted grey, they are likely overdue for replacement. A funtioning glow plug system should light the wait to start light 12-15 seconds before starting, then cycle the relay a few times after start up. Also at the front of the pass side head is a temp sensor that switches power on to your cold advance soliniod and fast idel soliniod for starting, it shuts power off to those two items once engine reached 112*F. Its located just behind the coolant outlet to the rad. Check and make sure its hooked up to start with. Good luck
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Originally Posted by KJLYPW
Welcome to a great web site biglex, to tell you the truth it sounds like you have an air leak problem, usually o-rings and hoses on the return system on the injectors. If they are all still painted grey, they are likely overdue for replacement. A funtioning glow plug system should light the wait to start light 12-15 seconds before starting, then cycle the relay a few times after start up. Also at the front of the pass side head is a temp sensor that switches power on to your cold advance soliniod and fast idel soliniod for starting, it shuts power off to those two items once engine reached 112*F. Its located just behind the coolant outlet to the rad. Check and make sure its hooked up to start with. Good luck
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engage your starter via the solenoid with a screw driver on the fender while the key off. as the engine is turning over, push in the little valve on the filter(looks like tire valve) and crank until fuel squirts out. plug the solenoid wire back in and it should only take 10 seconds to start your truck.
cut and plug the return line that goes from the filter to the injector return lines. that takes care of some peoples problems. (its also a Ford Service Bulletin)
good luck,
Jeremy
cut and plug the return line that goes from the filter to the injector return lines. that takes care of some peoples problems. (its also a Ford Service Bulletin)
good luck,
Jeremy
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From: Powell River B.C.
The temp sensor is just that, no other fancy name. Looks like a plug with two blade connectors sticking out of the top. If you do have air problems, just replacing orings and hoses is cheap and easy!
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Ok, so is this sensor on the front of the head or the back? Now this is the E-350 van style, so anything is pretty hard to get to. I am not able to find anything like that anywhere, I did however find this plug on the drivers side. Any thoughts on what this is for?
http://www.kingarthurracing.com/images/truck.jpg
http://www.kingarthurracing.com/images/truck.jpg
Last edited by biglex; Oct 9, 2006 at 05:25 PM. Reason: typo
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the temp switch is on the passenger side neer the thermostat, its burried behind the altnator. Plug in pic,i guessing brake fluid level sensor plug
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From: NC
another possible idea, a/c cluch plug it looks like its been rewired and could be the old wire and if thats not it and everything works then you dont need it
getting back to main issue, are the glow plugs working ? do you see a huge drop in voltage wile the wts light is on ?
getting back to main issue, are the glow plugs working ? do you see a huge drop in voltage wile the wts light is on ?
Last edited by dieself250; Oct 9, 2006 at 07:03 PM.
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Originally Posted by biglex
well, the brake fluid sensor is plugged in, ...
Ken
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From: Powell River B.C.
One sure way to know if the temp sensor switch is working, when you do get the thing running, is your idle speed kicked up to 800 rpm, then after engine warms up a bit, switch cuts off power, idle drops back down to 600- 650. Also this will provide power to high idle soliniod on the back drivers side of the pump. Key on cold engine should show 12 V, then 0 V when engine warmed up.
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well, I dont have a tach, but going by the sound, it does not seem like it changes any when the engine warms up. It is very low rpm from the time it starts. Also it looks like the solinoid is on the passenger side, near the headlight on the right side. Dont see anything on the drivers side looking like one.
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From: Powell River B.C.
The high idle solinoid I'm refering too is right inside of the injector pump. Two wires on the IP, the front wire allows the truck to run has power all the time, the back wire is the high idle fuel advance. You may want to try a jumper wire to bypass the temp switch for troubleshooting. If it starts better, change out the temp switch. Also you may want to turn up your base idle speed a bit, (adjustment screw on the front passenger side, screw with a spring under it just like a throttle on a carburator) if its set to low you will have a hard time with starting. Any one out there have a way to set up idle without having a tach??