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Problem starting 7.3

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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #31  
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bc6.9
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Question

Cheater, I've had this problem off & on for years, even when my I had the IP on my 86 [now on my 84], plug it in & it's fine? Glow plugs were new, mechanicl feul pump was new, contoller & sensor worked fine. And this is my point...[I think?] I belive when the truck is plugged in, the feul in the IP is enough to start it up right away, when it's cold and doesn't catch right away....air is introduced to the system and it won't start. Basis for my thinking...when I have problems starting-I'll push in the shrader valve and air will come out! The IP thats now on the 86 [that was on the 84] starts up first time every time...switched the IP's cause the one on the 86 was just rebuilt. Just a note-when I switched the IP's, I moved the IP's and the injection lines as a unit.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #32  
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by bc6.9
Cheater, I've had this problem off & on for years, even when my I had the IP on my 86 [now on my 84], plug it in & it's fine? Glow plugs were new, mechanicl feul pump was new, contoller & sensor worked fine. And this is my point...[I think?] I belive when the truck is plugged in, the feul in the IP is enough to start it up right away, when it's cold and doesn't catch right away....air is introduced to the system and it won't start. Basis for my thinking...when I have problems starting-I'll push in the shrader valve and air will come out! The IP thats now on the 86 [that was on the 84] starts up first time every time...switched the IP's cause the one on the 86 was just rebuilt. Just a note-when I switched the IP's, I moved the IP's and the injection lines as a unit.
Interesting. Does it seem like it is trying to fire off when it isn't plugged in? Mine doesn't at all. It just cranks and shows no signs of trying to start.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 11:23 PM
  #33  
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is there a way to test the temp sensor once its taken out?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:06 AM
  #34  
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Cheaper, yes,...I have a "push button" for my glow plugs, so it usually fires up right away but if it doesn't I know I have air in the system. I'm going to work on it [plug the return lines] and have it done by the weekend. If yours doesn't start unless it's plugged in, it might be your glow plugs? Next time you try to start it with out being plugged in, after a few cranks and it doesn't start, push in the shrader valve to see if you have any air in the system?!! lol
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 01:49 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bc6.9
Cheaper, yes,...I have a "push button" for my glow plugs, so it usually fires up right away but if it doesn't I know I have air in the system. I'm going to work on it [plug the return lines] and have it done by the weekend. If yours doesn't start unless it's plugged in, it might be your glow plugs? Next time you try to start it with out being plugged in, after a few cranks and it doesn't start, push in the shrader valve to see if you have any air in the system?!! lol
Well, when mine isn't plugged in it doesn't even TRY to fire and it blows diesel smelling smoke. I can try checking the shrader valve, but with the clear line having no air, I really doubt that is the problem. That's why I said
Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
Well, it started up just fine with the block heater plugged in.

Guess that means I still have some work to do on my GP system, huh?
Last time I tried starting it without it being plugged in, I already had the hood up so I held my manual GP control button for about 8 seconds, then jumped out and reached in and touched the two front cylinder GPs and they weren't even warm. I'd think they should have been at least a little warm at the connector end if they were working. Shouldn't they?

I hear the relay clicking, and it is brand new, and so are the GPs, so I'm not quite sure exactly what's going on with that. Must be a bad connection somewhere....
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 01:55 AM
  #36  
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So whats the easiest way to install a push button for the glow plugs? I am thinking all this electronic crap is just in the way and too much to go wrong. My plugs CANT be working.


Originally Posted by bc6.9
Cheaper, yes,...I have a "push button" for my glow plugs, so it usually fires up right away but if it doesn't I know I have air in the system. I'm going to work on it [plug the return lines] and have it done by the weekend. If yours doesn't start unless it's plugged in, it might be your glow plugs? Next time you try to start it with out being plugged in, after a few cranks and it doesn't start, push in the shrader valve to see if you have any air in the system?!! lol
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:26 PM
  #37  
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Biglex, check out Dave S,'s gallery and have a good look at his pics of the controller, different wiring options, one that disables the sensor and only works manualy, the other doesn't. What ever way you go, I suggest useing a starter "push button", any parts store will have it...it only took me 20-30 minutes to install. These glow plug problems can drive you crazy...even if you install a "push button", it might not fix your problem, just ask CheaperJeeper...use the search for more info....lots of information on these systems by members with a lot more knowledge than me! lol
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:30 PM
  #38  
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CheaperJeeper,
If you have no air in the clear line and are getting white diesel smelling smoke your problem is glow plugs.

On the 86 system the glow plug relay is mounted behind the passenger side battery.
Two small terminals and two big terminals.
One of the big terminals should have battery voltage at all times.
Usually the small terminal closest to the fender has a black ground wire on it.
Usually the small terminal closest to the engine has a purple wire on it.
The purple wire comes from the glow plug controller and supplies power to the terminal to activate the relay.

Find a power source at the fuse block under the dash that is only hot when the key is in the ON position.
Run a wire from there to a momentary switch, either terminal.
From the other terminal of the momentary switch run a wire to the terminal on the glow plug relay that has the purple wire on it. Remove the purple wire and attach the new wire you are running.

After it is all hooked up, turn the key to ON, push the momentary switch for 10 seconds, start the engine.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 11:44 PM
  #39  
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
CheaperJeeper,
If you have no air in the clear line and are getting white diesel smelling smoke your problem is glow plugs.

On the 86 system the glow plug relay is mounted behind the passenger side battery.
Two small terminals and two big terminals.
One of the big terminals should have battery voltage at all times.
Usually the small terminal closest to the fender has a black ground wire on it.
Usually the small terminal closest to the engine has a purple wire on it.
The purple wire comes from the glow plug controller and supplies power to the terminal to activate the relay.

Find a power source at the fuse block under the dash that is only hot when the key is in the ON position.
Run a wire from there to a momentary switch, either terminal.
From the other terminal of the momentary switch run a wire to the terminal on the glow plug relay that has the purple wire on it. Remove the purple wire and attach the new wire you are running.

After it is all hooked up, turn the key to ON, push the momentary switch for 10 seconds, start the engine.
Yup, that's what I did Well almost.

Actually what I did was run a length of 2-conductor 14 gauge speaker wire from the relay to pushbutton on the dash and connected that end of each of the wires to the switch. Then I cut the purple wire in two a couple of inches from the relay, and attached the other ends of the two wires to the two ends of the purple wire.

Then, when it seemed like maybe it wasn't starting due to the controller short cycling, I disconnected the end of the one wire that was attached to the end of the purple wire that was coming FROM the controller, and attached it to the battery instead.

Like I said, I can hear the relay click when I push the button. For some reason the plugs don't seem to be heating up though. Gonna' check it out tomorrow an see if I can figure out why.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #40  
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Cheaper, have you ever replaced you glow plugs? For less than $100.00 it's a good piece of mind, especialy with the cold weather starting.....hey check it out I'm a senior for second time around, [formly bcford6.9]
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #41  
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by bc6.9
Cheaper, have you ever replaced you glow plugs? For less than $100.00 it's a good piece of mind, especialy with the cold weather starting.....hey check it out I'm a senior for second time around, [formly bcford6.9]
Yup, like I said in post #25 of this thread, GPs and relay are both new.....
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 12:24 PM
  #42  
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#25, wow this a long thread, so if the relay & glow plugs are new and you have a manual push button, sounds to me that your not getting power to your glow plugs which you stated ealier about possible wireing problems, so I'm not telling you anything that you already haven't thought of!! How long have you had this problem, after installing a push button did it work at all or help and if it didn't fix the problem, I would start there....just curious, when you use the push button does your glow plug light on the dash come on? lol
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:43 PM
  #43  
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From: Kent WA
Well, I found the problem. I started measuring resistance across the new glow plugs and every darned one of them was burned out (open circuit)!

I hooked up my manual pushbutton right after I installed them, so I know the controller didn't cause it. Of the 8 all look fine except 1. The one that came out of the DS rear cylinder (#5?) has about 4 or 5 holes burnt through the outer shell.

So what do you guys think? Did I just get a bad batch, or what? I've never held the button more than about 10 seconds at one time, and like I said, they've never been hooked up through the controller. This one has me stumped. I can't see it being anything other than them being defective.....
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 05:25 PM
  #44  
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Just a note of interest I've never seen posted before with regards to air intrustion! I keep a valve cap on my schrader valve, its designed to hold pressure in, and would only take a small amount of negative pressure if the spring was weak to let air in. LOL.!!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #45  
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
Just a note of interest I've never seen posted before with regards to air intrustion! I keep a valve cap on my schrader valve, its designed to hold pressure in, and would only take a small amount of negative pressure if the spring was weak to let air in. LOL.!!
Good idea!

I replaced the GPs and she started right up. Now to see if I can get a refund on the first set that didn't last.....
 
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