When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On my 99 F250 7.3 my battery idiot lite started flickering on and off a couple of days ago. When I first start it in the morning it will stay on for about a minute and once i start moving it goes off. Today it started flickering on and off at a stop light.
Is it time to replace the alternator?
On my 99 F250 7.3 my battery idiot lite started flickering on and off a couple of days ago. When I first start it in the morning it will stay on for about a minute and once i start moving it goes off. Today it started flickering on and off at a stop light.
Is it time to replace the alternator?
brian
Either the brushes are worn out or the connection on the back of the alternator is fried. Both situations (IMO) call for a replacement.
sounds to me like the AC sine wave rectifier diodes in the rectifier bridge in the rear of the alternator are leaking, causing an AC signal to return to the battery, which slowly drains them over night, and once you start it up in the morning, it recharges the batteries.
when i took my truck into school to test the charging system, i did an AC leakage test. use a digital multimeter set on Volts AC, placing the positive lead on the alternator output, and the negative lead on the alternator housing (ground). the reading should be less than .3V, showing that the diodes are stopping AC current. on mine, the reading was like .06V, which was really good. im guessing this is your problem, if your truck still starts quickly when it's warm, and the alternator has had a chance to recharge the batteries.
the alternator is not field-servicable, so you'll need a new one. if you would like to donate the bad alternator to my school, PM me and we can talk about it. we are in need of dummy alternators as learning tools. Thanks.
The alternator is not field-servicable, so you'll need a new one.
I intend to service mine. I have the new bearings re-packed with a special long-lasting motor-bearing grease, and a new set of brushes that are available at alternatorparts.com/3G_products.htm .
Pully pullers are cheap on Fleabay.
This way, I KNOW my alternator has been "gone through" the right way.
we have a commutator lathe at school, it is a neat piece of machinery. yep that is right, truing the commutator, polishing the slip rings, and replacing brushes and testing the diode bridge, repacking bearings is about all that is in an alternator rebuild.
i thought they weren't field serviceable because i didnt know of a place that could sell individual parts for a powerstroke alternator.
Having it apart will give me the opportunity to see if the rotor needs truing, and I always go over the slip rings with crocus cloth, just for good measure. I even did that to the teenie-tiny motors in my door lock actuators when I did the "tin foil mod".
because of the price of the new or re-man alt. I made up a bracket and used a delco remy 22si pad style alt at the dealership it was over $300.00 this 22 si pad style was $115.00 and a full 2 year warranty through International truck. I can post a pic to show what I've done you may have to re work the wiring at the back of the alt but it's easy let me know.. Herman
Please post a pic of the set up. I was looking at my gauges and my alt gauge shows it to be charging. But I am not sure what is up with the battery light. Thanks brian
Thanks for all the help. I ended up replacing it saturday morning. Bought a remanufactered one from AutoZone for $150. Fifteen minutes and I was back on the road.
My '99 is doing almost exactly the same thing as briank's. When yall were saying the connection is fried on the back do you mean on the alternator or the plug in the wiring harness, meaning could i just replace that plug or is it the alternator? thanks