TFI question
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2006
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TFI question
-89 Bronco 302 fuel injected-
Lost spark yesterday and replaced the coil pack (E coil I belive).
Still no spark.
This morning truck starts and sounds rough then stalled.
I am thinking it is the TFI causing my problem. I am not sure if it is it or PickUp coil. Any thoughts????
What if any special tools are need to change this module.
And should I change the pick-up coil in the Distro. as well?
TFI is $31 and the PU coil is $20.
If the extra $20 would be recomended. I would think it would be easiest to do both at same time.
Thank you
Dave
BTW/.... this truck is becomeing new piece by piece.
Lost spark yesterday and replaced the coil pack (E coil I belive).
Still no spark.
This morning truck starts and sounds rough then stalled.
I am thinking it is the TFI causing my problem. I am not sure if it is it or PickUp coil. Any thoughts????
What if any special tools are need to change this module.
And should I change the pick-up coil in the Distro. as well?
TFI is $31 and the PU coil is $20.
If the extra $20 would be recomended. I would think it would be easiest to do both at same time.
Thank you
Dave
BTW/.... this truck is becomeing new piece by piece.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2006
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Some more observations.......
Truck started again.....
Idle is very rough.
Giving it gas it seems to run fine.
Would the TFI control the "throtle advance"?
I apologize for not knowing much about the ign. system. But this is new ground for me.
I am going to work and I will check back before I go to the parts store this afternoon.
BTW..... New fuel pump installed on the rail. I have not yet put the new filter on since the old one is about 7 months old. And I did not have any spark after installing pump.
Dave
Truck started again.....
Idle is very rough.
Giving it gas it seems to run fine.
Would the TFI control the "throtle advance"?
I apologize for not knowing much about the ign. system. But this is new ground for me.
I am going to work and I will check back before I go to the parts store this afternoon.
BTW..... New fuel pump installed on the rail. I have not yet put the new filter on since the old one is about 7 months old. And I did not have any spark after installing pump.
Dave
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
have you pulled codes? why chase that can be very expensive.
The tfi could be the issue but they only have problems when they get hot i mean real hot. i would double check firing order, timing, make sure plug wires are in great shape and not cracked or touching each other.
The tfi could be the issue but they only have problems when they get hot i mean real hot. i would double check firing order, timing, make sure plug wires are in great shape and not cracked or touching each other.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Ditto to Kem's response... codes will help eliminate the chasing of things that MIGHT be the problem. Replacing the PIP sensor in the distributor requires removing the distributor anyway and they aren't prone to failure as they are inductive hall-effect sensors.
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Cross-Country
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OK.... You can say I told you so.
I ended up replacing the TFI.
Distro went back fine and lined up well following the instruction per Hayes manual.
Timing is way out of whack.
What might cause timing to "all of a sudden" go out?
Dave
I ended up replacing the TFI.
Distro went back fine and lined up well following the instruction per Hayes manual.
Timing is way out of whack.
What might cause timing to "all of a sudden" go out?
Dave
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Cross-Country
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
11 is the system pass code which means the second code (32) was a memory code for a lack of EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor movement or a failed EVP circuit. The sensor is mounted to the top of the EGR valve. Not having the EGR system working properly will screw with your idle forever. Your best bet is to make certain the EGR valve is indeed moving (pintle at its center should open and close when vacuum is applied and removed). Check the vacuum line to the valve for breaks as well. If there is vacuum present and the valve is indeed opening properly, you can test the EVP sensor but they really arent' that expensive, you can remove the three screws that secure it to the valve, disconnect it and replace it. While you are there check the connector and the wiring for any breaks or abrasions.
Last edited by greystreak92; Oct 7, 2006 at 09:26 PM.
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Cross-Country
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HMMM..... Vacuum.
That is interesting.
While I was looking around the engine I found a vacuum line that was off. Actually it looked like a series of lines. It had apx 5-6 lines connected to a sort of harness/chasis/plug. It ran between the motor and the fire wall. I have "pluged" it back together.
Would you recomend doing a test with the engine running?
Thank you for your help,
Dave
That is interesting.
While I was looking around the engine I found a vacuum line that was off. Actually it looked like a series of lines. It had apx 5-6 lines connected to a sort of harness/chasis/plug. It ran between the motor and the fire wall. I have "pluged" it back together.
Would you recomend doing a test with the engine running?
Thank you for your help,
Dave
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2006
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did some tinkering this morning.... Removed the sensor and engine sounded like it was in time... just running a high idle.
I placed my hand over the valve and it started running really "slugish".
Hayes manuel has test for sensor..... It checked out fine I presume with out a tool to make a vacuum I am not sure. I acuated the plunger in liue of useing a vacuum while testing the ohms..
I also pulled a code of 31 and 34 this time. The 11 is not present. I Tried looking up codes for the truck yesterday per the www...... that you had posted in the Bronco FAQ . for some reason it wasn't working right. Is there any other reference to ford codes?
Dave
I placed my hand over the valve and it started running really "slugish".
Hayes manuel has test for sensor..... It checked out fine I presume with out a tool to make a vacuum I am not sure. I acuated the plunger in liue of useing a vacuum while testing the ohms..
I also pulled a code of 31 and 34 this time. The 11 is not present. I Tried looking up codes for the truck yesterday per the www...... that you had posted in the Bronco FAQ . for some reason it wasn't working right. Is there any other reference to ford codes?
Dave
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Cross-Country
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Power is coming from the computer at 5 volts to the sensor.
Sensor appears to be fine.
I have found reference to it being a "common" problem (in Ford's) for the valve to have a clog?????
How would one go about checking for a "clog"?
Could the problem be more than just the valve?
Thank you again. The problem is slowing starting to make a bit of sence to this layman.
Dave
Sensor appears to be fine.
I have found reference to it being a "common" problem (in Ford's) for the valve to have a clog?????
How would one go about checking for a "clog"?
Could the problem be more than just the valve?
Thank you again. The problem is slowing starting to make a bit of sence to this layman.
Dave
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Cross-Country
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I now feal as if I am definitly on the right track 
I removed the valve from the air intake And started the truck. It ran very high idle I assume from all the air being sucked in. Then I plugged the intake with my thumb.
I have never in my life heard my truck run soooo smooth.
As you know I have spent alot of money changing parts that did not need to be changed.... I know... I should have pulled the codes first. Now I know.
Since my budjet is busted til the end of this coming week..... Woul it be damaging to simply bypass the egr valve all together? Just as a temp. fix..... BTW Oklahoma has NO inspection for emmissions.
I was going to make a "cover" for the intake from alluminum plate I have laying around for a boat project. That way it could just be bolted on where the EGR goes.
Is this a viable idea or will it cost me more by damaging other things.
Thanks
Dave
I removed the valve from the air intake And started the truck. It ran very high idle I assume from all the air being sucked in. Then I plugged the intake with my thumb.
I have never in my life heard my truck run soooo smooth.
As you know I have spent alot of money changing parts that did not need to be changed.... I know... I should have pulled the codes first. Now I know.
Since my budjet is busted til the end of this coming week..... Woul it be damaging to simply bypass the egr valve all together? Just as a temp. fix..... BTW Oklahoma has NO inspection for emmissions.
I was going to make a "cover" for the intake from alluminum plate I have laying around for a boat project. That way it could just be bolted on where the EGR goes.
Is this a viable idea or will it cost me more by damaging other things.
Thanks
Dave
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Its going to affect your fuel mileage and your O2 sensor in the long run. if you absolutely have to have the truck and its the only way it will run well enough until you can properly fix it, you could do it. I would certainly NOT recommend leaving it that way for any extended period of time. You will only damage more sensors and harm your performance and mileage.
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Cross-Country
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Thank you Joe, I would have been chasing for a LONG time without you. I should have kept it simple and checked the codes..... they tell all that needs to be told
I will be running the truck for apx 5 day as it is.
I first noticed the idel/roughnest when i had the tranny replaced(thought it was some lose pipes from the R&R of tran. it had a "loud"idle since then. and It was kinda noisey. It sorta sounded and felt like a short bed chevy
I would be interested in how it would mees up anything else... the only reason I wonder that is because some places offer a "plug" that connects to the harness/sensor. It is suposed to basicly keep the Check Engine Light from coming on by "fooling" it to think the EGR is operating fine. While in fact the EGR vale is non-operational. I could provide the link but I don't think it is appopriate (<<sp?).
To be honest.... my Bronco has NEVER ran so well. The idle is very low as far as RPM's... It sounds GREAT. I hope that a new EGR vale will not only fix the problem but keep the engine performance/sound/feel as it has now.
Thank you again Joe. Your knowledge is is much appriciated,
Dave
I will be running the truck for apx 5 day as it is.
I first noticed the idel/roughnest when i had the tranny replaced(thought it was some lose pipes from the R&R of tran. it had a "loud"idle since then. and It was kinda noisey. It sorta sounded and felt like a short bed chevy
I would be interested in how it would mees up anything else... the only reason I wonder that is because some places offer a "plug" that connects to the harness/sensor. It is suposed to basicly keep the Check Engine Light from coming on by "fooling" it to think the EGR is operating fine. While in fact the EGR vale is non-operational. I could provide the link but I don't think it is appopriate (<<sp?).
To be honest.... my Bronco has NEVER ran so well. The idle is very low as far as RPM's... It sounds GREAT. I hope that a new EGR vale will not only fix the problem but keep the engine performance/sound/feel as it has now.
Thank you again Joe. Your knowledge is is much appriciated,
Dave
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