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The heat that comes out of the vents and dash is pretty weak. It doesnt even feel that hot. It seems like it would only have the capability to heat up the cab to about 30-40 degrese which is pretty chilly. I'm wondering if my heater core is crappin out on me. What do you guys think?
The engine temperature gauge on your dash should read somewhere in the "Normal" range. Most gauges are not very good but as long as you get a reading around the "N" or above you should be good.
Another easy way to check is carefully put your hand on top of the upper radiator hose after the truck has run for 15 minutes. It should be hot to the touch.
Be careful not to reach into the fan or it will take your hand right off.
Ok thats a good idea, I'll try that out tonight when I get home from work. The gauge always reads "normal", the needle is always right smack in the middle.
I had another off topic question, but I thought what the hell anyways. My coolant is a bit low, would that make a difference? Also...the coolant color is brown, is that normal? I thought coolant was supposed to be a greenish color, but I dunno maybe it's different for diesel engines. If this stuff is the right color and everything is cool, where do I get this type of coolant? Can I get it at walmart?
easy way to see if you have a cloged heater core is, warm the engine up and feel the hoses comming from the heater core if they are about the same temp core is fine, if there is a big diffrence in temp core is cloged
If coolant is low inside the radiator then good possiblity that there is not much fluid in the core. Fill to top and add enough to overflow tank to fill 1/2 full. Run down the road for a few miles let engine cool then check antifreeze in overflow tank. Refill to 1/2. See how the heat is after a 5 mile drive. It takes mine that long to get heat coming out in force.
Brown antifreeze = rust in system
Probably good idea to flush system replace with new antifreeze for diesels. It should say what to get in owners manual. Don't get the stuff for gas engines. It doesn't have the additive pkg you need.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Oct 4, 2006 at 07:36 PM.
ok wicked, so where exactly do you drain the coolant from? I think the previous owner didnt really uh...treat his vehicle properly so to speak, I mean I spent an hour and half vacuuming every piece of hair, ciggarette ash, joob joobs, ugh god it was disgusting, the guy was undoubtably a pig.
And mixing ratio for coolant is 50:50 for diesels right?
And another thing, is having rust in the system a bad thing? Or when I flush out the coolant system, it should be fine? Is there some sort of additive that I can put in to make my baby be back to normal?
I see from your public profile that your truck is a 1989 which already had a 7.3l engine. The early 7.3l engines were sometimes suffering from a condition called "Cavitation" where over time air bubbles in the coolant would eat pinholes into the cylinder walls.
Fords solution to this was to add a special "SCA" additive. You can also buy special antifreeze with this additive already in it at NAPA.
Ok, so what brand of antifreeze do you recomend? Or are all coolant solutions for ford diesels have that additive in it? I was looking over the manual last night, and it says that the truck requires 27 liters of coolant? what the hell am I supposed to use to drain that lol? Again...I'm a newb at the whole diesel thing. And last thing, where do you drain the coolant from?
There is a **** on the bottom of the radiator (drivers side I believe) to drain the coolant. You should probably also pull one of the drain plugs on each side of the block to make sure you get all the rusty waster out. Then do a good reverse flush with a water hose.
Your are right, the entire engine and radiator are well over 5 gallons so you will need some big buckets.
As for replacement antifreeze, go to Napa and pick up 3 gallons of the antifreeze that has the SCA additive already in it. Just tell them it is for the 7.3l Ford Diesel. They should know all about it. It has been common knowledge for over 15 years now.
FWIW, other than a blocked heater core or low coolant there may be one other possibility.
I'm not 100% sure about the system on these trucks, but 99.9% of vehicles also have a coolant control flow control valve that shuts off coolant flow to the heater core when you switch the temperature control from HOT to COLD. If that valve is stuck closed you'll get now coolant flow to the heater core. No coolant = no heat - just as if the heater core was blocked.