You're a diesel god Seb lol, you helped me out alot. Unfortunately, I'm just new to diesels, I don't know where these "drain plugs" are, I was pretty sure you drain the coolant from the radiator, I should be able to find that no problem. As for doing a reverse flush with a hose, do you just put those plugs back in and fill up the rad with water? What's the exact procedure?

Thanks alot!

 

Apparently this is a REALLY bad thing, depending on how long the rusting has been occuring inside my engine, how thick are the cylinder walls? How fast does cavitation happen? And should I even consider getting rid of the truck?

 

No need to panic.

If your truck has made it this far chances are your are probably going to be alright.

The problem with the 7.3l motors is that the cylinder walls are kind of thin to start with as the 7.3l is nothing more than a bored out 6.9l. This is why most guys don't recommned 7.3l rebuilts. The recommended way to rebuilt a 7.3l is to sleeve them, which is just opening up the pandoras box to another problem all together.

Just flush your system and then install the recommended antifreezee with the recommended SCA additive.


Seb.....

 

Ok, I'll do that. So again, whats the exact procedure on doing a complete flush, and a reverse flush?

 

I don't have a procedure, the idea is to flush all the rust out our your system. Usually going counter flow to the way the coolant normally flows is a good idea.

To flush the heater core just remove the feed and return line and hook them up to your gardenhose. Flush them both ways.

To backflush the radiator take off the bottom hose to the waterpump and connect your garden hose there, reverse flush with the radiator cap off to let the crude escape.

Flush the block with water thru one of the heater hoses going to the block. As I said earlier, remove the two drain plugs on the side of the block if you can get them out. If the plugs won't come out just let the block drain thru the lower rad hose you disconnected to flush the radiator.

To do this yourself you will have to figure out a way to adapt your garden hose to the heater hoses and the lower rad hose. Sometimes you can pick up a bit of a radiator flush kit from a local autoparts store for a few bucks. I ususally just make my own adapter fittings.

Seb.......

 

Where exactly is the heater core located?

 

The heater core is behind the firewall on the passenger side.

I would disconnect the heater hoses at the engine as you could easily damage the core if you are not careful removing the hoses. Espcially if your core is original to start with.

To remove the hoses, remove the hose spring clamp and then slice the hose with a utility knife. To re-install just shorten the hose an inch or even better replace the entire hose with a new one.

Seb...

 

Ya my core is original, I'm just trying to save a bit of money so that I dont have to take the truck into the dealership. For sure, i'm gonna get them to fix my power steering problem, I got this stupid leak that wont stop. It's eithe the hoses or the O rings, I'm not sure...but its goin in the shop ^_^.

 

You are just going thru the usual problems one goes thru with owning one of these trucks.

Other than the oil leak how is your Powersteering working? All my trucks have had problems and I have learned a lot over the years.

The usual Ford steering problems start with the poor steering linkage design. The Tie joints usually get a bit of wear and start to jam up. Before you know it the steering gear itself starts to jam up. On 4x4 trucks usually the outer universal joints rust up on one spindle which then starts to jam up the steering and before you realize it your joints and your steering gear are toast.

I just went thru all the steering issues on my 91 F350 I picked up last November. The U-Joints were partially frozen, the ball joints had enough wear to start jamming up the steering linkages and finally the steering box packed it in two weeks ago. I was able to free up the U-joints, had to replace all the linkages ($CDN 600) and last weekend replaced the steering box ($CDN 300 exchange). Now everything is back on track. Note the above pricing does not include labor. I did all the work myself.

Best of luck,,,,,
Seb...

 

Oh the steering has no problem itself, the gears work perfectly, just a *****load of fluid is leaking out from somewhere.

 

these trucks have a flaper door so the water is always flowing i myself live in a very hot area so i put a shut off [just a ballcok] on mine so that when the heat is here i can shut off the heater and it will blow colder air

 

Hmph, well I live in the high artic region of Canada...so I'm not really wanting to blow cold air lol. It's hot air I'm looking for. I just wanna get a little hands on experience, but without screwing up my engine at the same time. It's all about trial and error right? The error part is what I'm afraid of haha.

 

OK, so then maybe a stuck flapper door....

 

lol...ya maybe eh??

 

I had a leak in the steering box and had to replace. had to have someone turn the steering wheel while I looked from underneath to locate this one.