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Good Morning, I am new to these forums and hope to be able to eventually bring something other then my complete LACK of knowledge on trucks. I was given a 87 Bronco 302, EFI. It came at the time of my other car dying. I have never been a mechanic until this truck entered my life and now I am trying to do things on my own, I have replaced, water pump, fuel tank, plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor. All was done about 1-2 months ago, Now my problem, I went to start truck this morning and it throttles up, then RPMs drop and it idles "ok". As soon as I put it in drive it idles up then shuts off. I have let it sit in park and idle for about 10 minutes then it still dies when it goes in park. When I replaced the tank I checked both pumps and they seemed to be ok. I am planning on replacing the fuel filter, any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help given!! Backdraft
Welcome, not a bad rig i have an 88 which is very similar. go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and read up. there is a section on how to pull codes from the computer. I suggest you do this to figure out were to go next that way your not dumping money on sensors that are working fine. I would check your tranny fluid and replace fuel filter like you mentioned. the idle ramping up at start up is normal. have you been able to drive it at all?
Yeah I have taken it for a few short trips and it'll run ok as long as I am running but if I come to a light or stop sign it acts up. I am reluctant to go to far, where I am it costs a small fortune for towing and don't need the or want the headache, I will give the self test a try and see what lights up. Thanks!!
Welcome to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum. You found one of the many extremely knowlegable individuals who frequent this forum to answer your questions. Best of luck with the truck and if there are any further questions send 'em along. We'll do our best to get you the info you need.
IAC = Idle Air Control and its actually a solenoid and valve assembly mounted to the driver's side of the throttle body. And it could well be the source of the problem. I would follow Kem's advice about the codes first because, like he said, it will save you from chasing a bunch of things it MIGHT be. If the codes yield no tanginble evidence of a problem, then a good cleaning of the IAC valve and some tune up work might be in order.
I have been busy for a few days but I did try to run the self test, yeah about that the plugs that I should be plugging into are SHOT. The larger 1 is so corroded that I can't get it clean, and the 2nd one oh yeah isn't there. I replaced the IAC, no issues there, I figured what the heck mind as well replace oil and air filters too. The air filters were soaked with oil. Also when I filled the truck back up with clean oil, I noticed it was leaking(as fast in it was out) from the rear seal. So would it be safe to assume that because there is a leak at the seal, it would be sucking air through and blowing oil into the motor which in turn would be wrecking havoc on everything else?
I have been busy for a few days but I did try to run the self test, yeah about that the plugs that I should be plugging into are SHOT. The larger 1 is so corroded that I can't get it clean, and the 2nd one oh yeah isn't there. I replaced the IAC, no issues there, I figured what the heck mind as well replace oil and air filters too. The air filters were soaked with oil. Also when I filled the truck back up with clean oil, I noticed it was leaking(as fast in it was out) from the rear seal. So would it be safe to assume that because there is a leak at the seal, it would be sucking air through and blowing oil into the motor which in turn would be wrecking havoc on everything else?
The RMS pissing out like that should not cause issues with idle speed or stalling, but you also said the air filter(s)? were soaked with oil.....this is not a good thing. I would look into that ASAP. First by replacing the PCV if you didnt already, and then checking the compression across all 8 cylinders. The reason the RMS is leaking could be directly caused by a clogged PCV.
Also.....you need to replace the ECU test port connector. You will NEED to get into there to pull the codes....its a must in my book.
OK, PCV will be the nect thing to do. I went about 100 miles round trip this weekend and everytime I got around 40 mph with my foot off the gas it would surge then relax, then surge, then relax, but only around 40mph. Where would I get the test ports? Are they available at my local Napa or Car Quest?
OK, PCV will be the nect thing to do. I went about 100 miles round trip this weekend and everytime I got around 40 mph with my foot off the gas it would surge then relax, then surge, then relax, but only around 40mph. Where would I get the test ports? Are they available at my local Napa or Car Quest?
I would look in the junk yard.....they should be the same on most Ford 5.0's....or it will be exact off any F150,250 Bronco of a year in your range.