Shackle Frame Mounts
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Copenhagen, Denmark
Shackle Frame Mounts
The shackel mounts on my Ranger 4x4 4.0 1994 are in bad shape. These are the fixtures which hold the leaf spring shackles to the frame. They seem to be prone to rusting as salt and dirt can collect on top of them.
I was wondering how these are attached to the frame and where new ones can be obtained? Are they easy to change?
Thanks!
I was wondering how these are attached to the frame and where new ones can be obtained? Are they easy to change?
Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
I think what you are talking about is the rear spring shackle bracket or hanger. Those are rivoted to the frame on my leaf spring rear suspension. I think the only way to find out if those are still available would be to contact a Ford dealer. Replacing them would be heavy duty work, something I personally would leave to a frame shop. Some others may know if there are aftermarket suspension kits which can be used in place of the OEM and are attached to the frame with their own bracketry. Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
Yes, it would be a bracket of that type. Not sure if it is that exact one but that is how they fasten to the frame. Heavy duty frame shops that work on cars and trucks work on these types of issues all the time as they have the tools and equipment needed for heavy welding, rivoting and so on.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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I had a 95 2wd that had that exact bracket rust all the way through. The leaf spring ended up banging against the bed.
To fix I ended up welding some HD brackets to use. I ground off those rivets, drilled holes and mounted in the exact same spot. It was a lot of work, but a lot cheaper than a frame shop would have charged me.
To fix I ended up welding some HD brackets to use. I ground off those rivets, drilled holes and mounted in the exact same spot. It was a lot of work, but a lot cheaper than a frame shop would have charged me.
Elder User
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You could always cut away the rivets... and install large bolts in their place.. if you have enough access to fish the bolts through the frame.
I would then take it somewhere and have the bolts spot welded in place.
Don't know if that's the safest way to do it, but probably the cheapest!
I would then take it somewhere and have the bolts spot welded in place.
Don't know if that's the safest way to do it, but probably the cheapest!
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Copenhagen, Denmark
My car is up for technical control which, unfortunately, is very strict in this country. I am hoping the controller will not find out that the hangers are a little thinner than they used to be. I have changed the shackles as they were totally rusted through. Anyway, if repair is needed it will have to be performed in a similar way as the car was produced in order not to compromise the strenght of the frame. I believe the heat generated by welding will damage the frame but I am not sure about using bolts. It would be an easy fix as the frame is not closed (U-shaped) at that location.
Did those of you who changed the hangers buy an OEM part or did you get it from a salvage yard? I guess I could possibly locate one from an area where salt is not an issue, although the Ranger is not the most common car around these parts
Did those of you who changed the hangers buy an OEM part or did you get it from a salvage yard? I guess I could possibly locate one from an area where salt is not an issue, although the Ranger is not the most common car around these parts
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
You can get them from the dealer (I am sure in your part of the world they would have to order them) or if you can find a wrecker that has some that would be fine, I grind the rivets off with a angle grinder then punch them out, and replace them with grade 8 bolts, believe it or not I had radius arm brackets on a 95 F150 that the rivets got loose, there was a TSB on it happening and under warrenty Ford replaced all the rivets with grade 8 bolts, so if they figure it's good enough under warrenty then it should be good enough under home repair. BTW they use rivets because it is cheaper and faster to assemble at the plant than using bolts, not because they are better per say. One note on using the bolts though, use fine thread, and if you can get them, all metal lock nuts only and make sure they are grade 8, nothing less.
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New User
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From: Copenhagen, Denmark
Thanks monsterbaby for the good advise 
You are right, I have access to the same OEM parts through the local Ford dealer as you guys in the US but just have to wait 10 days on most parts and pay a lot more due to the EU's efforts to protect the lousy overpriced "auto" products coming out of France, Italy and Spain
So if the hanger is available OEM I can get it.
Could you grind the rivets with the bed installed or did you have to lift it?
You are right, I have access to the same OEM parts through the local Ford dealer as you guys in the US but just have to wait 10 days on most parts and pay a lot more due to the EU's efforts to protect the lousy overpriced "auto" products coming out of France, Italy and Spain
So if the hanger is available OEM I can get it.Could you grind the rivets with the bed installed or did you have to lift it?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
I am pretty sure you can do it with the bed on the frame, my situation doesn't count as I did a body swap so I had a bare frame to work with when I built the suspension on the ranger, but you shouldn't have a problem doing it with the bed on.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Copenhagen, Denmark
Thanks, this problem actually doesn't appear to be too tough to solve for the home mechanic. That's one thing I love about this site - it gives you peace of mind to know that others have already handled whatever problem you have yourself!
