parts wanted
#1
parts wanted
parts needed.... i nees parts for an 83 f150 302. im very fortunet to have found the truck in its condition but i cant get it through maryland inspection with out an emmission system the truck dosnt have any of the system whatsoever and i need pictures and parts to install and get it throught inspection it has a new moter and tranny and i would hate to leave it site for two years till it becomes historic ford however was no help they dont even make the parts i need anymore ive tryed junk yard and shops to get prices but the gave me the runaround about gettin the system installed all they would say was parts and labor they couldnt give me an estimate on how much so know im down to trying to do it myself
#3
I hope the truck is in really good condition, smog equipment replacement will be tough enough, but Maryland inspection has to be one of the most thorough inspections in the country. Things I have failed for so far:
-Any hole in the body or floor boards, no matter how small, whether caused by rust, drill, etc.
-Front end toe is measured on a skid plate and must be in spec. However, tech can also fail you under the "allignment" category if he says the wheels "look" out of camber.
-tie rods, other front end parts etc.
-bushings for suspension parts such as sway bars. My bushings in the rear sway bar were certainly cracked and dry-looking, but my argument that there was no play whatsoever in the bar fell on deaf ears.
-Shocks. I'm sure there's a method for testing them (jumping up and down on the bed comes to mind) but I'm currently changing mine because he said they "look" bad due to the rust.
-Gear position indicator. For automatics, of course, the needle has to line up with "P", "N" "D" etc, I'm still working on that one.
-Gotta have good ball joints before going to the inspector.
-They will inspect brakes and measure rotor thickness and drum inner diameter. Easiest to do a whole brake job before going.
-License plate lights are always overlooked (but the tech won't miss them!!), so check them out.
Then there's the host of little things like wipers, tire wear, etc. Best course of action is to have the truck in tip-top condition before you bring it in, you only get 30 days to do repairs. Better course of action is to have a "friend" in the business. If you can't get it all done in 30 days, they'll probably charge you another $70 to inspect it when you bring it back on day 40.
-Any hole in the body or floor boards, no matter how small, whether caused by rust, drill, etc.
-Front end toe is measured on a skid plate and must be in spec. However, tech can also fail you under the "allignment" category if he says the wheels "look" out of camber.
-tie rods, other front end parts etc.
-bushings for suspension parts such as sway bars. My bushings in the rear sway bar were certainly cracked and dry-looking, but my argument that there was no play whatsoever in the bar fell on deaf ears.
-Shocks. I'm sure there's a method for testing them (jumping up and down on the bed comes to mind) but I'm currently changing mine because he said they "look" bad due to the rust.
-Gear position indicator. For automatics, of course, the needle has to line up with "P", "N" "D" etc, I'm still working on that one.
-Gotta have good ball joints before going to the inspector.
-They will inspect brakes and measure rotor thickness and drum inner diameter. Easiest to do a whole brake job before going.
-License plate lights are always overlooked (but the tech won't miss them!!), so check them out.
Then there's the host of little things like wipers, tire wear, etc. Best course of action is to have the truck in tip-top condition before you bring it in, you only get 30 days to do repairs. Better course of action is to have a "friend" in the business. If you can't get it all done in 30 days, they'll probably charge you another $70 to inspect it when you bring it back on day 40.
#4
I think all an 83 has is an airpump to the cat and an egr. The EGR should be easy enough to find (but $$$). An airpump shouldn't be too bad either at a junk yard, i think your big hassle is going to be the plumbing for the air pump. If I'd have known someone was going to need the stuff I would have sent it to you for the cost of shipping. I tossed it all about 2 weeks ago.
That inspection system blows. . .
In Missouri it's a $12 inspection where they check lights, tire wear, brake wear, make sure you have a muffler, and make sure your front suspension is tight.
Then the benefit of the doubt is always given to the driver. They have to :: prove:: that something on your vehicle is out of spec, can't be failed visually.
Justin
That inspection system blows. . .
In Missouri it's a $12 inspection where they check lights, tire wear, brake wear, make sure you have a muffler, and make sure your front suspension is tight.
Then the benefit of the doubt is always given to the driver. They have to :: prove:: that something on your vehicle is out of spec, can't be failed visually.
Justin
#5
#6
Well, yes and no, 94broncoxl. Me, and I think Yodavator too, (I'm bringing my truck in from out of state, but I believe this also applies when you purchase a used vehicle privately) first needs to pass the mechanical/safety inspection before he can register it. In this inspection, you bet that the tech checks to see if the smog equipment including cat is all there. He will definitly fail if the truck is supposed to be smogged equipped and the stuff ain't all there. When I finally get it registered, though, I'm then will have to pass a sniffer test. That, I'm sure will be my next headache, and why Yodavator is going to have to not only get the parts but get that stuff working correctly too.
Like everybody else, I'm trying to gradually "build" my truck back to original. I would have gotten to the shocks, sway bars and stuff on weekend projects, while I use the truck once in a while. That's what most of us do. But with this system in Maryland, I ain't registered, so I don't drive it around too much with my NY plates that have been expired for a few years!
So now I got about 16 days to change the rear shocks (shouldn't be bad, the old ones are off and I'll get new ones this weekend), fix my gear positioner, repair a hole in the top of the cab where the PO put what I think is the base of a CB antenna, fix one of my license plate lights (it's on but for some reason is dim, the other one is bright), and re rout a brand new rear brake cable. This one is interesting: the store may have given me the wrong one. That hose is quite stiff and appears to be a little long. Well, when I installed it, I let it loop which it did easily because it was looped in the package. Big no-no acording to the tech, can't have that loop. I can see why, I guess, might generate a kink easier, but I don't know.
Didn't mean to hijack your thread yodavator, I just thought I could help with what I think you could be going through in the near future. Once you get all the big smog parts, you're going to need to look at a similar year and engine truck to figure out the vacuum hose system. You can follow the diagram near the radiator, but it helps to compare the diagram to the actual system if you can visualize the two at the same time.
Like everybody else, I'm trying to gradually "build" my truck back to original. I would have gotten to the shocks, sway bars and stuff on weekend projects, while I use the truck once in a while. That's what most of us do. But with this system in Maryland, I ain't registered, so I don't drive it around too much with my NY plates that have been expired for a few years!
So now I got about 16 days to change the rear shocks (shouldn't be bad, the old ones are off and I'll get new ones this weekend), fix my gear positioner, repair a hole in the top of the cab where the PO put what I think is the base of a CB antenna, fix one of my license plate lights (it's on but for some reason is dim, the other one is bright), and re rout a brand new rear brake cable. This one is interesting: the store may have given me the wrong one. That hose is quite stiff and appears to be a little long. Well, when I installed it, I let it loop which it did easily because it was looped in the package. Big no-no acording to the tech, can't have that loop. I can see why, I guess, might generate a kink easier, but I don't know.
Didn't mean to hijack your thread yodavator, I just thought I could help with what I think you could be going through in the near future. Once you get all the big smog parts, you're going to need to look at a similar year and engine truck to figure out the vacuum hose system. You can follow the diagram near the radiator, but it helps to compare the diagram to the actual system if you can visualize the two at the same time.
#7
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#12
speaking of emmissions i know k tags (tag #'s ending in K) in maryland require no inspection or emmision but you need to own or work on a farm. Farm tags (not the pretty ag tags, farm tags say farm truck) require inspection but no emmisions. k tags are limited to 15 miles in-state. farms tags allow 200 miles. i dont know if the exhaust has to look legal or not for farm tags but if you own a farm one of those optons maybe easier than fixing it. emissions are a joke anyway
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