HELP! Mean Green Alternator Install
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HELP! Mean Green Alternator Install
So today I installed a mean green high output alternator on my 93 Bronco (351) and its causing something in the serpintine system to shriek VERY LOUDLY. Now in the instructions it does say that a shorter belt may have to be used, but mine seems to fit nice.
FACTS
1. I installed a 250 amp DC circuit breaker in the charge line from the alternator to the battery. When the breaker is off there is no noise whatsoever. When the breaker is on it sounds like a power steering pump at full lock X 1000.
2. I have the belt belt correctly routed through all of the pulleys.
3. The new unit has a much smaller pulley than the OEM unit.
4. When the DC breaker is on and its making all of its terrible noise it DOES charge the system.
5. The sound seems to come from near the power steering pump area (or the driverside area in general).
Has anyone installed one of theses units before? Anyone have any ideas? The Beast ain't going anywhere until I can get this fixed, so please throw me any and all ideas..........
FACTS
1. I installed a 250 amp DC circuit breaker in the charge line from the alternator to the battery. When the breaker is off there is no noise whatsoever. When the breaker is on it sounds like a power steering pump at full lock X 1000.
2. I have the belt belt correctly routed through all of the pulleys.
3. The new unit has a much smaller pulley than the OEM unit.
4. When the DC breaker is on and its making all of its terrible noise it DOES charge the system.
5. The sound seems to come from near the power steering pump area (or the driverside area in general).
Has anyone installed one of theses units before? Anyone have any ideas? The Beast ain't going anywhere until I can get this fixed, so please throw me any and all ideas..........
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Take the belt off and turn everything on except the engine, then reach down and try to turn the pulley, if it is magnetically locking itself, then there is a problem.
DO NOT START THE ENGINE WHILE YOUR HAND IS DOWN THERE.
Altho that would be tough to do while your hand is down there.
DO NOT START THE ENGINE WHILE YOUR HAND IS DOWN THERE.
Altho that would be tough to do while your hand is down there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
Ditto to chrono4's post and make certain that the pulley on the new alt. is aligned with the rest of the pulleys in the system as well. Take a look from one side of the engine across the pulleys and make sure the belt isn't shifted as it moves from one pulley to the next.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 460
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
I'm with greystreak and chrono4 -> the smaller pulley will cause the belt to be looser and not supplying enough friction to turn other accessories. You need a smaller belt. To get the amount it should be shorter take the circumference of the old pulley and subtract the circumference of the new pulley and then multiply it by the percentage of the circle that the belt contacts the pulley. That's the amount that the new belt has to be shorter. If it still squeals after changing the belt, let us know!
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Ok guys i'll get another belt. What size is the original one (93/351/AC/all stock equipment)? I don't remember seeing any adjustment marks on the tentioner, what am i looking for adjustment wise there? If its just the belt how come it only does it when the the charge cable circuit is complete. I'm not exactly sure what your telling me to do BroncoRK but I have taken the belt off the new alternator pulley with it installed, and it spins freely without binding or anything.
Oh and this may sound silly, but i've never bought a belt before, what do I ask for ? " I need a 36', 6 groove serpintine belt" or something like that?
Oh and this may sound silly, but i've never bought a belt before, what do I ask for ? " I need a 36', 6 groove serpintine belt" or something like that?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Antonio, Texas
If you look at the belt there should be a line of #s and it will tell you how many grooves and length. Or if you go to the auto parts and have the guy look up the stock belt then see if hae has one an inch or so shorter.
And as to why it only does this when the alt. is charging cause at no load its fine but the little slack can show itself as soon as the alt. puts a load on the engine.
Kinda like when the A/C compressor kicks in.
And as to why it only does this when the alt. is charging cause at no load its fine but the little slack can show itself as soon as the alt. puts a load on the engine.
Kinda like when the A/C compressor kicks in.
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Well, I just made my first attempt to get a shorter belt, but all they had was the factory size, and the AC/NOAC versions are the same part#. Also my old belt has no markings on it so I don't know the length. Guess i'll have to just take it off and measure it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Seaville, NJ
i had the same problem when i got my alt take your old belt to an advance or auto zone or something and get one that is an inch or two shorter...i cut mine in half to make it easier to measure
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From: Seaville, NJ
no unfortunately i installed a custom built alt that was recommended by a local car audio store a year ago and now the company won't warranty it becuase they found "excessive amounts of mud inside" so now i'm fighting with them and tryin to get the money for a mean green asap....btw what are you running that you need a 240 amp alt?
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Awesome, you guys were right it was just the belt! Now I have another question though. I fabricated my own heavy duty charge cable, but it won't work. Is there something thats supposed to go in line between the Alt. and battery? It works fine when I connect the original cable, just not the new one, and the cable checks out good so.........????
I guess at the moment I don't "need" 240amps, but i'm building a foundation for the future. Right now i have 2 redtop batteries eventually to be three, 3 amps, soon to be four, eventually winch, 5000w inverter, lots of lights, 3 tv screens, and I want to be able to charge batteries on a trailer. Oh and i'm about to install the flex-a-lite 295 electric fans and the B&M cooler with fan too.
I guess at the moment I don't "need" 240amps, but i'm building a foundation for the future. Right now i have 2 redtop batteries eventually to be three, 3 amps, soon to be four, eventually winch, 5000w inverter, lots of lights, 3 tv screens, and I want to be able to charge batteries on a trailer. Oh and i'm about to install the flex-a-lite 295 electric fans and the B&M cooler with fan too.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
What is the resistance across the cable you made? If its any higher than that of the OEM cable you can have trouble getting things to work properly. Basically, you can have 12-14VDC at the end of the cable but if the resistance through it won't let more than a couple of amps through it, its useless. I had this issue with a battery cable years ago. Corroded from the inside out... meter said I had 12VDC at the starter... only problem was I had 12volts and about 3 amps. That will NEVER turn a starter motor or much of anything else except a test light.
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Well I finally got around to dissassembling the original charge cable and found that the yellow wire in there must be connected to the main charge wire for it to work. Everything working great now.
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