I just replaced both of the cats and Im ready to ride,,,,,,,also the O2 sensor, maf sensor. throttle by-pass valve, trottle position sensor, main computer, ingnition control mod. plugs, wires cap and rotor , set the timming. and placed BLACK TAPE OVER EVERY FLASHING LIGHT I COULD FIND,..AND OH YEA I THREW IN A CAN OF SEAFOAM FOR GOOD MEASURE,,,,,,,,,DEALER WOULD HAVE CHARGED ME OVER 1000 bucks for all this cool work

 

Did anybody ever post the part number for the fuseable link (temperature sensitive fuse) that blows in a ford Airbag control module?

Mine's blown and I'd like to replace it!

Thanks!

Herb
'94 XL-6cyl-LB

 

Hi Codewarrior78411

Welcome to our FTE forum

All I could remember is that it's called a Thermal Cutoff Fuse and is rated at 154 degrees Celcius. I know that NTE makes them and you can get them at Radio Shack or Frys electronics.

 

Hi Tung,

Thanks for the quick response! I love this place.

BTW, the Rat Shacks around here have really 'generitized' themselves of most electronic components choosing instead to carry the simple stuff like ipods, switches, connectors, etc. I'm going up to Houston on Friday so I'll drop by Fry's. Hopefully they'll have it.

I pulled my unit and found that it's fuse had "K 168C" written on it. I wonder if that means this one is rated for 168 centigrade?

I just bought my truck at a police impound auction. It's my first truck and and I'm quite impressed with it; 166K miles and it runs very smooth. The previous owner let alot of stuff go in side the cabin but these trucks come apart so easily that fixing the airbag/cruise/radio/cosmetics looks like it will be a cinch!

This forum was very helpful in telling me about the 'clock spring' issue for the steering wheel. Now the horn works and the airbag is flashing 5-1 instead of 3-2.

Next I'm going to get the Chilton manual for the truck.

Thanks!

Herb
'94 XL, 4.9, LB

 

Hi Herb

Yes, 168C means 168 Centigrade, or about 335 F

 

Rat Shack now sells most of their small electronics parts online only....dropped the store inventory of most parts

 

FOLLOW UP to the Airbag Thermal Fuse on my '94 F-150

IT WORKED! I unhooked the battery, waited 5 minutes and removed the airbag control unit. I then took the airbag control unit apart and found the little black and white box on the circuit board containing the thermal fuse. I split the little box in half and found the fuse and a diode. The thermal fuse on mine is a little silver can with a little green conical top.

After studying it carefully, I determined it was a 168 degree centigrade part. Goodman's in Miami (www.goodmans.net) sells a 167 degree part for $1.25 each; part number TH-TF167C (good enough for goverment work) I ordered three.

It took 3 days to arrive. Once here, I carefully used solder flux and my favorite portable butane soldering iron (from Radio Shack) and some de-soldering wick to move the solder from the two leads and thus remove the part from the circuit board. Just remember which direction the little green cone points to!

Once removed, I soldered in the new part, reassembled the controller's housing, plugged it in and started the truck.

WOWZA! NO MORE AIRBAG LIGHT! WHO HOOOOOOO!!!!!!

So to recap, I had two problems... my clock spring was bad (which I also replaced) and I fixed the airbag controller myself!!! Talk about SAVING MONEY!!!

Clock Spring from O'Riely's = $47
Three little fuses = $3.75
A few hours of my personal time = Fun!
Total = $51 bucks and a great lesson learned.

Now if I had let a shop do it...
Clock Spring = $100
Cruise Control Module = $275
Time to R&R = 3 hours (at least) at $75/hr = $225
Total = About $600 and I wouldn't have learned a thing.

Now to go fix the Cruise Control!! I already know it's not the clock spring

Cheers,

Herb
'94 F-150

 

Hi Herb:

Glad we could help and you are having fun doing it. Just for clarification, that thing next to the fuse is not a diode but a resistor. The Air Bag computer sends a current through that resistor for the specific purpose of blowing that thermal cutoff fuse when it thinks there is a short in the system. Every once in a while, that fuse blows itself

 

Ah... that makes sence.

Well, it looks like ole' Henry is smiling on me because on my way to the shop this morning, my cruise control magically started working!

I wonder if the cruise control is rigged to not work if there is any problem with the airbag or it's controller?

Now I have to fix the brake switch that turns the cruise control off. I was going down the highway, hit the brakes and kept going... YIKES!

Herb
'94XL

 

does anyone know the ohm rating on that resistor?

 

My airbag lamp is blinking 5-2. Can someone tell me what that means? I'm assuming it is error code 52. My light on the passenger side on-off switch is good.
Thanks for your response.

 

I know a lot of this thread is old, but here is my experience with the brake light switch failure, causing the cruise control not to disengage on a 1996 Aerostar.

First time the switch failed was around 18,000 miles. Took it to the selling dealer, had them fix in under warranty, obviously no charge for that. The service manager tried to sell me a "fuel injector cleaning service". I told him no, the van only had 18,000 miles on it. I stopped giving that Ford dealer any more business.

The second time the brake light switch failed, out of warranty, 50,000 or 60,000 as near as I can recall, I crawled under there, and took a look. Basically, plastic pieces hold the wires for the brake light switch on the brake light switch terminals. I just used some crimp on connectors, and soldered the connection after crimping the connector. It has worked fine since, I am at about 177,000 miles now.

I have never had the fuel injectors cleaned by a shop. I did have the head gaskets replaced at 120,000, when I was on a trip in Redding, California. I do not know if the fuel injectors were cleaned then. It is possible, but I do not recall paying for that service, just replacing the head gaskets. I had to replace the headgaskets again at 171,250 miles, and did that myself. For what it is worth, the head gaskets the Ford dealer used in California were Fel-Pro. I used genuine Ford gaskets, from Parts Guy ED, a sponsor of this site. I do not blame the Redding dealer for doing a bad job. Since I was on vacation at Lake Shasta, I gave them a tight time schedule that my van had to be done by, so I could drive it home. They got the van fixed, in the time I needed it done.

I did very carefully lightly brush dirt and gunk off the outside of the injectors with a soft bristle brush, and on the face, or injector side of the injector, used the same brush, only brushing away from the injector.

At 177,000 miles my van is still running good. I do have some OBD2 diagnostic software, and as of a month ago, no codes were pending, or set. My van also went through an emissions check necessary to register the vehicle license plates after I did the head gasket replacement.