I posted in the differential forum but wasn't getting much response. Maybe someone here can help.
My limited slip has begun to not work recently. Today I pulled the cover off and noticed that only two of the friction discs(one on either side of the carrier) still had their ears or tabs on them to hold them in place. Is this common with the Ford clutch packs? Should I replace with aftermarket or Ford?
Also during inspection I noticed a considerable amount of end play on both axles. Is this due to the problem with the clutch packs or are the grooves worn out for the c-clips on the axle?
Any help is appreciated as I have not gotten many responses in the other forums.
Thanks
Al

 

I do not know how you could see that without thaking the disk packs out.Some in and out play is normal. The inward movement is stopped by the Pinion Pin and if the clutch packs were worn you would have more play as they would let the side gears move out more and the outward movement is stopped by the c-clips making contact with the side gears.

Here is a diagram:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9.../LSrearend.gif

 

In your picture you can see the tabs or ears on the discs. You can see three per side. On mine there is only one per side(the outermost ones). You can see where the other tabs used to be but have been sheared off.
As far as end play goes, I can see where it hits the pinion shaft at the center. As you move the axle out there is about 1/4 inch play, could be more.
Thanks Sub, I haven't been getting much feedback on this subject.
Al

 

1/4" endplay is fine. Ford sells the rebuild kit.

 

The play in the gears is normal, both rotational and in and out on the axles.

And yes.. the tabs breaking off is fairly common. Sometimes they get caught up in the gears and make clunking noises leading people to believe they have a broken diff. You can make a hugh improvement to the function of the LS diff with a rebuild kit or junk yard parts. I love junkyards! If you look closely at the diagram, you will see that Ford has put 2 pressure plate/spacers between each friction disk(the ones with the taps). This biases more towards slip than grip, which is OK for mild road use where traction is not a big problem, and it keeps tire wear down. Using extra disks from a salvage, or combining a new kit with your existing disks(as long as they are in decent shape) you can restack the clutch packs so they alternate.. friction disk/pressure disk/friction disk/pressure disk. That alone biases the diff more towards traction and will make a hugh improvement. But you can go further by adding an extra pressure plate which will preload the spring more. You may only have room for 1 extra plate as the spring becomes very hard to install. The end result is a diff that will allow the outside wheel to spin faster with light throttle, but as soon as you apply some torque it locks and you have maximum traction.

 

Is it common for this to happen to Ford friction discs? Should I go aftermarket? What about adding an additional friction and steel disc as some have done as an upgrade?
This is something I'll be doing myself. Anyone with hands on experience? Anything to look out for?
Thanks
Al


edit:You posted that just before I could reply. Thank you.

 

I have done the upgrade/rebuild as I described on both my F150s, and 1 mustang. It's a 1-2 hour job, and you'll need a new pinion lock bolt, a couple liters of gear oil and a bottle of friction modifier. Be sure to clean all broken bits out of the diff.

 

I didn't put friction modifier in my rear end, but, ehh i baught LS gear oil too.

my 95 tabs were broke when my pinion lock bolt came out and i lost an axle, i found this out, my 88 rear end i put in there the disks were still good, and i have way more traction now too, think it was setup a lill diff.

Yes, and make sure to clean it good. i soaked mine in kerosean, and drenched it out with oil a few times before i put it in, and then changed in 3k later.

I think there is a spring tool for the inner spring also.

 

I've rebuilt them in the axle (Mustangs, but still 8.8 rears). You'll need a couple needle nose vise grip to get the "S" spring out after you pull the C clips and axles. Then put in an axle in a rotate till the pinion gears (idler gears) fall out. Then you can take out the side gears and the clutch packs. Assemble per ford, or per Conanski. In the cars the standard Ford pattern is fine and I usually shim them a little tighter then the ford specs.

It's pretty easy, even on your back under a car with jackstands.

 

Do you all suggest pulling the carrier out or leaving in the diff.? As far as shimming the clutch packs, how tight do you want to go? I've read that as long as the spring will go in you're good.
When I was inspecting today, I cleaned everything real good. Wasn't much debris in there. A little on the fill plug and RABS sensor.

 

I always take the carrier out and work on it on the bench. Its a lot easier to get the spring, gears and everything right on the bench and then put it back in. Just make sure that you put the shims and caps back the way they came out and on the same side they came out of. Mark the caps before you unbolt them and which way the bevel goes on the shims.
After it is back in you can slide the pinion pin down to get the "C" clips on.

 

I prefer in the car, but I've taken a few out and put them back with no problems. I don't want to bother messing something up taking the carrier out. Some can be a pain to get back in (Dana rears...)

If you do take the carrier out, make sure everything goes back the same way it came out.

 

Thanks all. I'm going to talk to the guy who rebuilt my trans. He's a relative of my brother-in-law and did a great job with the trans. His shop does a lot of hi-perf. cars and such. I'll see what he suggests as far as an upgrade or to keep it stock.
Thanks again
Al

 

I bought parts today and hope to do the install this or next week as time allows. Just for info purposes, the dealer wanted $135 plus tax for the clutch pack kit. I found from a local shop, Drivetrain Specialists(DTS), the same Ford kit for $68 plus tax.
I'll let you all know how it goes shortly.
Thanks
Al

 

This project is done. All went smooth. I left the carrier in and worked on it that way. The clucth packs were pretty wasted. I put the biggest shim back in and everything was good and tight, not too tight though. The spring was a bear to get back in there, but it did go in. Also replaced axle seals while the axles were out.
Thank you all
Al