lectrode, your diving into a thread about something else.
Start your own thread.
To begin to help you, you have ablown fuse as a start.
If you still have a problem, begin a new thread.

 

Hi guys,
Hope it is ok to piggy back on this thread.
I have the same problem with the "service engine soon" light on. I followed the advice and got the codes from an auto part retailer. The codes are as follows:
P0174, P0171. Both read: System Too Lean for Bank 1.
I don’t think there is any vacuum leak as the car runs and idles well. It can be the “Mass Airflow Sensor” (MAF). Years ago, the truck would died on me and would not start. At that time, it was towed to a garage and they replaced a sensor with a used one. I think the senseor that was replaced was the MAF. The reason is that the mechanic mentioned that he removed the air filter to reach it.
Do guys know of any procedure to reach and clean the MAF? I would start there on my way to trouble shooting.

 

Guys, different codes mean different problems. Thats what Bluegrass is trying to tell you. 171 and 174 mean vacuum leak. Truck might still run "OK".. Common areas of vacuum leaks on 10 year old trucks are small hoses that are hard / brittle/ cracked. Look at the two small hoses above the drivers valve cover next to the exhaust manifold--- they get hot.. Look also at the bigger hose running to backside of the intake manifold. See if its loose or cracked.

 

What about using a vacuum gauge to detect leaks? Where can I connected and what should be the readings?.
Does somebody have pictures?

Thanks

 

For vacuum 'indicated' leaks as detected by the Ox sensors for codes 171/174; a gauge reading could not be interpreted to any meaningful degree.
Using a gauge is not near sensitive enough to tell anything unless it is gross in comparison.
Only things you might tell are faults with cylinder sealing.
A cylinder issue either ignition or sealing would be detected as a misfire and code set for that cylinder..
This detection is done by the crank sensor, timing rotation time for each cylinder and comparing to a table with average times that has limited floating ability to account for averaged wear over the life of the motor.
Gone are the days of much useful vacuum testing as it was done on the old carbed motors.
The computer is equipped to sense and diagnose way beyond the point of using a vacuum gauge for [that] purpose.
Good luck.

 

Thank for your thoughts. I guess diagnosing the truck the way I do with my antique mustang is not the way to go.

 

One more question.
If the truck by any chance stalls, can I just disconnect the MAF so it can be by passed? This sensor costs about $250

 

here is a good article. It seems like to clean the MAF you dont need to remove it:
Part 2 -How to Clean the MAF Sensor (Ford 4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L).

 

So I started this thread and have come to a resolution.. I can finally contribute something useful. Here goes;

1) Autozone or other shops can't read this for free, at least where I live
2) Local mechanic with a Snap on code reader retrieved 3 codes. I for get the exact numbers but all indicated that they needed to be rest by Ford. We reviewed a bunch of Service Bulletins and the consensus was that the ABS module needed reflash.
3) He managed to reset 1 code but I made a service appointment headed to Ford for the reset
4) Ford ticket indicated C1963 & C1282 codes. TSB indicates reprogram ABS module
5) $158.47 later all codes reset and Advancetrac light is out

Lost of confusing information on these but it appears that it is a very common prob that is proprietary and the dealer shop is the only place to get it resolved. But it can affect many of the onboard sensors such as in the steering system

 

I assume your relating the codes to a 2011 model year in your listing info.
They do not apply to 1997-2003 model years in this forum or thread.

 

Yes sir. I guess I blew that