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LOL well with nothing to do, porting the heads was just itching away at me..so 9 hrs $35.00 and a sunburn later http://i10.tinypic.com/2exua90.jpg Not bad for a first shot at it. Never even hit the already lapped seats LMAO.. Now to brush up the flat sides and recheck the seats and washem up. Then slap them together.. Yeahhh!!!
snapped some better picts sunday after using the dremel/lappin wheel 80grit for 2 min till it was shot LOL then changing the die grinder shank to .125" collet and finishing it in spurts as it was eating the compresspr alive...
begiiner job for sure but it should help none the less,
So Kurt based on the build stats, If I can afford a 4bbl stock intake/carb combo & cheap headers later.... any Cams jumping out at you for a tow mobile.."in a po mans budget" LOL Lots of hills here... Grapevine is 5 mile of incline 15º or better in places...as for a 3000 rpm flat spot hell I'll never see 3000, at 65 it's about 2200 last I recall..and here 55 is the tow speed, most of the river roads are curvy and the speed is usually 35 max unless your crazy or **** drunk.
Honestly if the cam in it has decent off the line torque and low end is fair that should do... the top end of things will never be seen anyways.. it's a tow vehicle for christs sake..packing a camper and a 18ft cain cruiser.. not likely to see 3g's anytime soon unless the accelerator sticks..
Last edited by Redmanbob; Sep 18, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
It looks like you really did a good job on those heads!
That RV cam really does nothing right. It's got 282 intake and 292 exhaust duration, with only 204 intake and 214 exhaust duration at .050" lift! The high advertised duration kills off the low end torque, and the low .050" duration kills off any top end it might have had. This cam really does nothing right.
Now lets go find you a good cam. You want strong low end torque and you dont care much about over 3000rpm. We can do that. I have a couple recommendations:
Considering your ported heads, here are some Desktop Dyno results. I'll run it with your stock 2 barrel and exhaust logs; let me know if you'd like the 4 barrel and headers results. I did factor the ported heads into this since you already did that. I will tell you though, with a 4 barrel and a set of headers, these numbers go *WAY* up, torque and hp.
What the heck ? I'm shocked at the stock cam numbers .. I might just run it by the shop and get their opinion on the thing (junk or servicable) If not that then the Comp looks like a great choice.. Just for kicks, say I hunt down a cast 4bbl take/carb combo 600cmf'ish @ pickYOshiat and spend the nephews's christmas money on a set of headers and dual pipes ? More like my Bday '08 present LMAO.. major improvement ?
Nice job on the porting for a first timer.
What book or link was used to port the heads?
I been thinking of doing the head porting on my 390 engine build as a first timer myself.
What the heck ? I'm shocked at the stock cam numbers .. I might just run it by the shop and get their opinion on the thing (junk or servicable) If not that then the Comp looks like a great choice.. Just for kicks, say I hunt down a cast 4bbl take/carb combo 600cmf'ish @ pickYOshiat and spend the nephews's christmas money on a set of headers and dual pipes ? More like my Bday '08 present LMAO.. major improvement ?
If you get the 600cfm 4 barrel, headers, and dual exhaust, those numbers look like this:
I threw that 343901 in there because it's close, and it's one we use on here a lot. It might have a bit too much lift though for your flat top pistons. Here's the specs:
Crane cams 343901. 260/272 advertised duration, 204/216 .050" duration. .501"/.533" lift.
Also, Desktop Dyno doesn't take into account lifter acceleration that well. There's three options, "hydraulic," "solid," and "roller". I used "hydraulic" and advertised duration for all the results above. As such, the peak HP on the RV cam is probably too high, although the low end torque is accurate. Also, Comp cam should develop more HP than indicated, due to it's .050" duration. Also be aware that the stock cam might not do as well as indicated, since I dont know the .050" numbers.
WOWSER!!! hmm might have to plan on some upgrades when santa drops by Thanks Rusty.. I'm going to have to just leave the build at the moment but can make the changes later without to much trouble. This looks very interesting to say the least.
1975 Ford... I just read a few posts on here from Rusty, search Porting heads..
It might help some to roughen up the intake ports a bit. This creates a boundry layer of air around the ports. this actually increases velocity and works as insulation for the intake charge. I have done quite a bit of porting, so I am not just blowing smoke. You did a good job.
That RV cam really does nothing right. It's got 282 intake and 292 exhaust duration, with only 204 intake and 214 exhaust duration at .050" lift! The high advertised duration kills off the low end torque, and the low .050" duration kills off any top end it might have had. This cam really does nothing right.
Rusty70F100,
I hate to hijack the thread, but what you say here makes me doubt the cam I was considering for my '83 F100 302. I was looking at an RV cam from Maddog Racing with an advertised duration of 280/289 a .050 duration of 204/214 and a centerline of 112 (108/116). This sounds a lot like the cam you said does nothing right for the FE.
Can you suggest a cam for me? I'm looking for more low end torque and trying not to sacrifice cruising mpg. My thread is here if you'd like to keep this in the 302 forum.
Thanks!
I appreciate any input if anyone else would like to add their opinions.
The cam information Rusty posted is right down my ally. :)
I've done some porting myself but they were always gooey aluminum heads.
(motorcycles and aircooledVWs)
I'm looking forward to porting some iron heads now after seeing those cool pictures. :)
In my limited experience porting the heads effects the engine like you put a higher reving cam in it.
Do both and you can effect your low end??
BTDT or so it seemed like it at the time.
As far as your old cam goes... I vote for replacing it, if we're voting. ;)
Like a new "1965 model year" type cam if nothing else.
Alvin in AZ
ps- cool pics, got an automatic sprinkler system huh? ;)
Porting, when done correctly, wont affect low end. Actually, if you dont "hog out" the ports, and instead just smooth them up and round things off, you can actually improve low end. You keep velocity up while increasing flow.
Cam, that's another story. No real comprimises here; bigger cam = less low end, and usually more HP on top. Now a better grind can help both at the same time (like going from a 30+ year old stock cam to a modern aftermarket cam...).
Redmanbob, In 1988 I had my '65 352 rebuilt for my F250. I asked the builder at the time about a RV cam and he told me much the same as what has been written here. He suggested a 390 cam and said that I would see improved performance. Well, he was right about that. I used to carry a camper (heavy) over the Cascades several times a summer and was constantly downshifting into third. No longer with the 390 cam. I lost 1 mile to the gallon and I now get 13 on the highway. This truck is a pulling fool. I had a load of 3/4 inch plywood (15 sheets) and a bunch of other construction equipment in it last summer on the way to the Oregon coast for a shed project. I approached a pretty steep grade where there is a passing lane. An import car came racing up from behind and I moved over to let him pass but at the same time I gave it some juice to keep up my speed. Well I made it to the top first without a sweat and now my son refers to that place as plywood hill. Just some ramblings of a very satisfied owner. By the way, I've got over 100K on the rebuild and it is still very strong. Steve
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