Storage Preperation for Deployment
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From: Iraq, (U.S. Army)
Storage Preperation for Deployment
I'm sure this will get moved to a more general thread. But I would like to direct this more towards the 70's model ford.
I am preparing to go to Iraq. My truck has been in storage for some time (almost 2 years) I have noticed my newly rebuilt engine is starting to leak along with the steering stabilizer. Is there anyway to better protect these things. Beyond the have someone start it up and drive it from time to time.
Also, what other things should be looked at. Its being stored in my homestate of Minnesota.
A while back I picked up some used rims to actually swap (I have 39' Mickey Thompson's) this also allowed me to park the vehicle in the garage for clearence reason's. And I have checked the coolant tolerances and all other fluids along with some rust treatments on underbody.
I would just hate to come home and find my pride and joy in need to more work. I have pictures in my gallery. I am very much looking forward to putting her in some shows. So please...so tips would be greatly appreciated.
~Lance
I am preparing to go to Iraq. My truck has been in storage for some time (almost 2 years) I have noticed my newly rebuilt engine is starting to leak along with the steering stabilizer. Is there anyway to better protect these things. Beyond the have someone start it up and drive it from time to time.
Also, what other things should be looked at. Its being stored in my homestate of Minnesota.
A while back I picked up some used rims to actually swap (I have 39' Mickey Thompson's) this also allowed me to park the vehicle in the garage for clearence reason's. And I have checked the coolant tolerances and all other fluids along with some rust treatments on underbody.
I would just hate to come home and find my pride and joy in need to more work. I have pictures in my gallery. I am very much looking forward to putting her in some shows. So please...so tips would be greatly appreciated.
~Lance
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Not driving a vehicle is the worst thing you can do to it. All the seal surfaces weld themselves to the shafts they are around and a thin film of seal tears loose when the vehicle is moved. This increases friction until the material wears off the shaft and of course wears more material off the seal. Packing grease into the seals seems to help with start up lubrication as well as keeping the seal lubricated when the other lubes or oils drain off. Spraying seals with white lithium grease during storage helps if you can reach them.
Ball and roller bearings also corrode when the ***** and rollers push thru the lubrication film over time and small vibrations transmitted thru the ground and air set up fretting corrosion. Decreasing the load on bearings (putting the vehicle on blocks) helps reduce this corrosion in wheel bearings but not other places. Regular bushings and bearings corrode due to dissimilar metals.
Replacing seals and bearings when you get back may be your only option.
Ball and roller bearings also corrode when the ***** and rollers push thru the lubrication film over time and small vibrations transmitted thru the ground and air set up fretting corrosion. Decreasing the load on bearings (putting the vehicle on blocks) helps reduce this corrosion in wheel bearings but not other places. Regular bushings and bearings corrode due to dissimilar metals.
Replacing seals and bearings when you get back may be your only option.
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From: Iraq, (U.S. Army)
I appreciate your response. Sadly I have no one to go start it up and take her for a spin for me from time to time. So it does indeed look like I will have some restoration that will need to take place when I get back. As I've already started to notice some leaks. Again thank you..
Posting Legend
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Check in the MN forum to see if anyone is available that could start and run it periodically. Of course a certain amount of trust would be required... Tim Myers, one of our vendors (TMI) may know of someone in Minnesota.
Of course on a nice clean show truck it isn't too bad to go back in and replace a few seals. It is when everything is covered with half an inch of old grease and grit that it gets messy.
Very nice truck in your gallery! I see you managed to get the flip front and the hood to open. Many trucks I have seen just weld the hood on. I plan on a tilt cab on mine but it will be a daily driver with the hydraulic tilt mechanisms for work and access. A tilt cab is slightly easier with an automatic and cable shifter, tough with a 4x4.
How did you get that brake booster so shiny and keep it that way? I have mine painted the usual black.
What is the gage in your engine compartment?
I have a set of old beater rims to move my truck around on also. I am reworking the garage to put taller doors in.
Good luck on your deployment and stay safe. A Combat Engineer can get into some sticky situations.
Of course on a nice clean show truck it isn't too bad to go back in and replace a few seals. It is when everything is covered with half an inch of old grease and grit that it gets messy.
Very nice truck in your gallery! I see you managed to get the flip front and the hood to open. Many trucks I have seen just weld the hood on. I plan on a tilt cab on mine but it will be a daily driver with the hydraulic tilt mechanisms for work and access. A tilt cab is slightly easier with an automatic and cable shifter, tough with a 4x4.
How did you get that brake booster so shiny and keep it that way? I have mine painted the usual black.
What is the gage in your engine compartment?
I have a set of old beater rims to move my truck around on also. I am reworking the garage to put taller doors in.
Good luck on your deployment and stay safe. A Combat Engineer can get into some sticky situations.
Last edited by Torque1st; Sep 11, 2006 at 02:55 AM.
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Judging by the location ..I bet that is an oil pressure gauge like I keep mentioning to people to install 
Or it could also be a vacuum gauge.
The dial is a little too hard for me to read from here
Is the brake booster that powder coated chrome ?
I had that done (for free) to a few engine parts I have.
Works great
Or it could also be a vacuum gauge.
The dial is a little too hard for me to read from here
Is the brake booster that powder coated chrome ?
I had that done (for free) to a few engine parts I have.
Works great
Last edited by Mil1ion; Sep 11, 2006 at 03:05 PM.
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From: Iraq, (U.S. Army)
Yep it is an oil pressure gauge...
To be honest I'm not sure what type of chrome coating it is...its really glossy and soft to the touch. Like toching a bumper...if that helps.
To be honest I'm not sure what type of chrome coating it is...its really glossy and soft to the touch. Like toching a bumper...if that helps.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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I like to install pressure test ports where they are easy to get to for diagnosis and testing but I do not run permanent gages except for the OEM electrical types. I am replacing the OEM ammeter with a digital voltmeter that will also act as a tranny and water temp gage right in the OEM panel.
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