Help With Door Skinning?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Help With Door Skinning?
I am re-skinning the bottom of my 56's driver door with a patch from Mid Fifty. I have it fit up and ready for welding, but I don't know how to fold the lower flange without (maybe) distorting the door shape along that edge.
Any ideas? See the photo: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...127733&width=0
Thanks.
Any ideas? See the photo: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...127733&width=0
Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I wouldn't cut any extra slits in the panel if you don't have to, you'll only have more work to do. The panel should follow the contour of the inner lip that you're attaching to.
Your are going to need a good body hammer and dolly. Tap the flange over with the hammer slightly so the entire flange is on about a 30 degree angle. Then go back over the flange using the dolly to back up the outside of the sheet metal, working the flange over a little at a time until it's completely crimped over. I would work from the center out:
You might still distort the edge a little and have to fill it in. After it's completely hammered flat place spot welds every inch or so.
Grind the spot welds down so they're flat. Make sure the seam is cleaned out really good, apply epoxy primer, wait for the primer to dry and apply a good paintable seam sealer. Apply the sealer after all of your welding and primering is done.
Your are going to need a good body hammer and dolly. Tap the flange over with the hammer slightly so the entire flange is on about a 30 degree angle. Then go back over the flange using the dolly to back up the outside of the sheet metal, working the flange over a little at a time until it's completely crimped over. I would work from the center out:
You might still distort the edge a little and have to fill it in. After it's completely hammered flat place spot welds every inch or so.
Grind the spot welds down so they're flat. Make sure the seam is cleaned out really good, apply epoxy primer, wait for the primer to dry and apply a good paintable seam sealer. Apply the sealer after all of your welding and primering is done.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Hey, Bob!!! Now that is exactly the kind of help I was looking for. The pictures work great for me. Thank You!!! 
I do have a decent hammer and dolly set. I'll be butt welding the patch to the remaining door skin, then crimping the edges. I was going to use a doubler behind the butt weld, but I think using a hammer and dolly to stretch the welds back as I go will be a better method to maintain the contour thru there. What do you think?
I was also thinking that before I close the area, it may be the best look I'll get at the inside of the door. There's a lot of surface rust in the lower half of the door. So, I plan to use some Zero Rust (brush-on) on everything I can reach before I weld the patch. Would you agree?
Thanks again!
I do have a decent hammer and dolly set. I'll be butt welding the patch to the remaining door skin, then crimping the edges. I was going to use a doubler behind the butt weld, but I think using a hammer and dolly to stretch the welds back as I go will be a better method to maintain the contour thru there. What do you think?
I was also thinking that before I close the area, it may be the best look I'll get at the inside of the door. There's a lot of surface rust in the lower half of the door. So, I plan to use some Zero Rust (brush-on) on everything I can reach before I weld the patch. Would you agree?
Thanks again!
Last edited by Randy Jack; Sep 9, 2006 at 05:42 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: indiana
randy believe it or not harbor frieght carries a body hammer and dolly just for door skins. the hammer head is longer and curved, makes it real easy. just go nice and easy dont try and hammer it with one big one.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Randy,
I personally like to lap weld a big area like the middle of the door. I feel a lap weld offer strength and hopefully less warpage. That's a big, flimsy area to do a but weld. I am sure there are others that would disagree but that's what I do.
As for applying a product like Zero Rust, I would wait until you finish welding before appying it. You're going to end up burning off any that is in the area that you weld on. I weld the patch, clean as much of the inside as you can and then liberally apply the rust encapsulator in the inside.
I personally like to lap weld a big area like the middle of the door. I feel a lap weld offer strength and hopefully less warpage. That's a big, flimsy area to do a but weld. I am sure there are others that would disagree but that's what I do.
As for applying a product like Zero Rust, I would wait until you finish welding before appying it. You're going to end up burning off any that is in the area that you weld on. I weld the patch, clean as much of the inside as you can and then liberally apply the rust encapsulator in the inside.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
Again, Harbor Freight - but they have a air tool that puts a flange on one edge for a lap weld. I have one but have yet to use it on a long flat panel, other than for practice. It sure looks like it would make a stout seam that will hold its shape.
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
pnuematic panel flanger/punch works well. Everything Bob has said and showed, is right on(I like the pics). The trick is to do the whole thing a little at a time as you don't want to stretch or tear the panel by hammering too hard. A damp cloth will wet the seam sealer enough to create a smooth blended surface, instead of a big ugly bead. As for the rust behind the panel, if it's out of sight, then may I recommend you use a small spot-blaster and primer after, or sand it away, and apply the zero-rust after, then primer. Regardless, you want that rust GONE. oh, yeah, lots of little tack welds for a butt joint, alternating from one end to the other(staggering the welds to minimize heat) if you already cut the skin to size. If you haven't cut the skin yet, then leave that "extra" for the flange tool. Good luck.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
Randy, the flange is about 1 inch, and you set the tool such that it only bends it as thick as the metal.
One suggestion, why weld it? You will get some distortion whatever you do. I would consider glue - even if only on the lap joint, but I would look at gluing the entire thing.
One suggestion, why weld it? You will get some distortion whatever you do. I would consider glue - even if only on the lap joint, but I would look at gluing the entire thing.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Thanks, Guys. You gave me a lot of good ideas here. I'm glad I asked about this.
Bob - I was concerned about that long weld over a flimsy area, too. I can see why you would prefer a lap weld. Unfortunately, I alread cut the door skin to a butt weld configuration. Now, I'm thinking that the panel adhesive using a doubler is the safest idea. I'll make the doubler from the skin remnant I cut out.
UK - Thanks for the hammer tip. I'm off to Harbor Freight this morning. I don't need much convincing to buy another tool.
***** - I don't think the panel flanger would work here, although I will check them out. The skin has shape fore-aft along the seam. Flangers look like they are really for flat parts, and I am trying to retain the shape.
havi - With the wet rag and seam sealer idea - are you saying to wipe over the sealer bead with a wet cloth to smooth it? I have a spot blaster. I'll use that first. Where could I buy a good panel adhesive?
Thanks again.
Bob - I was concerned about that long weld over a flimsy area, too. I can see why you would prefer a lap weld. Unfortunately, I alread cut the door skin to a butt weld configuration. Now, I'm thinking that the panel adhesive using a doubler is the safest idea. I'll make the doubler from the skin remnant I cut out.
UK - Thanks for the hammer tip. I'm off to Harbor Freight this morning. I don't need much convincing to buy another tool.
***** - I don't think the panel flanger would work here, although I will check them out. The skin has shape fore-aft along the seam. Flangers look like they are really for flat parts, and I am trying to retain the shape.
havi - With the wet rag and seam sealer idea - are you saying to wipe over the sealer bead with a wet cloth to smooth it? I have a spot blaster. I'll use that first. Where could I buy a good panel adhesive?
Thanks again.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
yes, but wring out the cloth first. the dampness softens it up to make it more workable. I usually wipe it in with my fingers first, then come back with the rag to smooth it over and remove any excess.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Rancho Cucamonga ca.
You should be able to fold or at least partialy fold first to get a nice straight edge slip it on and close with the hammer and dolly If you need a box ban bender your welcome to come over and use mine
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
If you don't have a hammer and dolly or want to be extra careful, use a block of wood and hammer to finish the bend, backing it up with another block of wood. Don't try to close it all at once, work it down in several passes, concentrating the bending force at the bend rather than at the end of the flange, you want to keep it flat not curve it over. I would also apply a weld thru primer to the door frame and back of the panel where the two will overlap before welding.
Butt welding is the correct procedure Randy for exactly the reason you gave you cannot stretch an overlapped seam back to contour. Speaking of contour, it would be a good idea to make a vertical and horizontal contour pattern of the entire door skin for reference when reshaping, it's difficult to eyeball a shallow compound curve.
Butt welding is the correct procedure Randy for exactly the reason you gave you cannot stretch an overlapped seam back to contour. Speaking of contour, it would be a good idea to make a vertical and horizontal contour pattern of the entire door skin for reference when reshaping, it's difficult to eyeball a shallow compound curve.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=14360
something like this can help in restoring the panel's contour back into shape. There are less expensive versions than this out there...maybe harbor freight has one.
something like this can help in restoring the panel's contour back into shape. There are less expensive versions than this out there...maybe harbor freight has one.