Starting Issues on 02' 7.3
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Espanola, NM
Starting Issues on 02' 7.3
Hi guys,
after digging around here I'm almost convinced I need to replace the GPR(almost).My truck has 67k miles.
My problem seems to only occur in the mountains @10,000ft. with morning temps around 55f+10. I go through the WTS drill and crank on the start switch. The truck gives a couple of rumbles as if it's going to start but it doesn't. Last time this happened I had to hitch a ride to the nearest town to buy new batts. because at that time I was convinced it was a battery issue......NOT! Anyway from what I've read here the part to buy is GPR-109 from Napa. Does this part last longer than the stk. prt.? I don't want to skimp and have my truck catch fire because I was to cheap to buy a quality part. Is the GPR-109 a quality part?
Thanks for your help,
Lou
after digging around here I'm almost convinced I need to replace the GPR(almost).My truck has 67k miles.
My problem seems to only occur in the mountains @10,000ft. with morning temps around 55f+10. I go through the WTS drill and crank on the start switch. The truck gives a couple of rumbles as if it's going to start but it doesn't. Last time this happened I had to hitch a ride to the nearest town to buy new batts. because at that time I was convinced it was a battery issue......NOT! Anyway from what I've read here the part to buy is GPR-109 from Napa. Does this part last longer than the stk. prt.? I don't want to skimp and have my truck catch fire because I was to cheap to buy a quality part. Is the GPR-109 a quality part?
Thanks for your help,
Lou
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 7
From: colorado
i know the 109 is quite a bit cheaper than the ford piece. i have not heard any problems with people using the 109. i think that where the wires hook up are rotated 90* from where the original ones hook up, buts that not a big deal. are you sure the GPR is bad? here is how to test it and the GP's:
How to check Glow Plug System
To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
· Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
· Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
· With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
· Turn the key to ON (do not start)
· If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
· If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
· Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
· With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.
To check Glow Plugs.
· Remove the electrical connector on the inboard side of valve cover at the gasket. Press down on the top of the connector latch and pry gently with a screwdriver. Photo of disconnecting one and another Photo of it loose.
· There will be 9 pins on the valve cover gasket where you removed the connector. The two pins furthest forward and the two pins furthest back are for your glow plugs.
· With your multimeter set to resistance (ohms) and low range (single digits) if not autoranging, clip the negative (black) lead to a good ground point.
· Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose.
...thank to klhansen at TDS for writing this
How to check Glow Plug System
To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
· Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
· Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
· With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
· Turn the key to ON (do not start)
· If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
· If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
· Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
· With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.
To check Glow Plugs.
· Remove the electrical connector on the inboard side of valve cover at the gasket. Press down on the top of the connector latch and pry gently with a screwdriver. Photo of disconnecting one and another Photo of it loose.
· There will be 9 pins on the valve cover gasket where you removed the connector. The two pins furthest forward and the two pins furthest back are for your glow plugs.
· With your multimeter set to resistance (ohms) and low range (single digits) if not autoranging, clip the negative (black) lead to a good ground point.
· Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose.
...thank to klhansen at TDS for writing this
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